
JUL 301891" 




ON THE BEACH AT GARFIELD. 



1891. 



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f j)E;ei^ipiio/M 




OK THE 



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Western Resorts 



F=OR . .. 




H&flLTH- Pleasure 




REACHED VIA 



ClnioQ ^ <J)aeiFi® ^ ^y^hem, 



"THE OVERLAND ROUTE. 



FOURTH EDITION, 



Complimeofc^ oF \.\i^ 



Copyrighted, March, 1891, 
By E. L. LOMAX, General Passenger and Ticket Agent, Union Pacific Sys., Onnaha, Neb. 



Knight & Leonard Co. Printers, Chicago 



/A 



i 






OFFICERS OF THE UNION PACIFIC SYSTEM. 



EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT. 

Sidney Dillox. President New York City 

S. H. H. Clark, Vice-President and General 

Manager Omaha, Neb. 

E. Dickenson, Ass't Gen'l Manager Omaha, Neb. 

Gardixer M. L.^ne, 2d Vice Prest Boston, Ma.ss. 

Ttiom.\s L. Kimb.-vll, 3d Vice Prest Omaha, Neb. 

Oliver W. Mink, Comptroller Boston, Mass. 

James G. H.-\rris. Treasurer Boston, Mass. 

Frank D. Brown. Local Treasurer Omaha, Neb. 

Alex. Millar, Secretary Boston, Mass. 

LAW DEPARTMENT. 

John F. Dillon. General Counsel New York City 

John M. Thurston, Gen'l Solicitor Omaha, Neb. 

AV. R. Kelly, Ass't Gen'l Solicitor Omaha, Neb. 

\V. J. C.\RROLL, Ass'ttoGen'l Solicitor. .Omaha, Neb. 
W. R. Kelly, General Attorney for Nebraska and 
Iowa Omaha, Neb. 

A. L. "Williams, General Attorney for Kansas 
and Missouri Topeka , Kan. 

Teller & Or.\hood, General Attorneys for Col- 
orado Denver, Colo. 

Lacy & VanDevanter, General Attorneys for 
Wyoming Cheyenne, W\-o. 

P. L. Williams, Gen'l Att'y for Utah . .Salt Lake City 

W. H. S.widge, Gen'l Att'y for Idaho. ..Pocatello, Ida. 

J. S. Shropshire, General Attorney for Montana, 

Butte, Mont. 

W. W. Cotton, General Attorney for Oregon and 
Washington Portland, Ore. 

Stanley. Spoonts & IMeek, General Attorneys 
for Texas and New Mexico Ft. Worth, Tex. 

LAND DEPARTMENT. 

B. a. McAllaster, Land Commissioner, Omaha, Neb. 

ACCOUNTING DEPARTMENT. 

Erastus Young , Auditor Omaha. Neb. 

F. W. Hills, assistant Auditor 

R. Anderson, Auditor of Disbursements '• 

A. S. Van Kur.a.n, Freight Auditor " 

W. S. Wing, Auditor of Passenger Ac'ts. " 

B. H. Calef, Gen'l Traveling Auditor . " 
JNO. R. M.\nchester. Gen'l Claim .\gt. " 

CONSTRUCTION DEPARTMENT. 
E. C. Smeed, Chief Engineer Omaha, Neb. 

TRAFFIC DEPARTMENT. 

C. S. Mellen. Gen'l Traffic Manager. .Omaha, Neb. 
E. L. LOMAX, Gen'l Pass, and T'k't Agt. " 
jNO. W. Scott, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt. . . " 

W. H. Hurlburt, Assistant General Pa.ssenger 
Agent Portland, Ore. 

D. W. Hitchcock, General Agent Passenger De- 

partment San Francisco, Cal. ! 

J. B. Frawley, General Agent Passenger Depart- j 
ment Kansas City, Mo. 



Geo. Ady, Gen'l Agt. Pass. Dept Denver, Colo. 

D. E. Burley, Gen'l Agt. Pass. Dept .... Salt Lake City 

E. V. Maze, Gen'l Agt. Pass. Dept Butte, Mont. 

S. M. Adsit, Gen'l Agt. Pass. Dept. ..St. Joseph, Mo. 

D. M. Collins, General Agent Freight and Pas- 

senger Departments Sioux City, la. 

A. Traynor, Gen'l Baggage Agt. . .Council Bluffs, la. 
W. V. Newlin, G. F. and P. A., Ft, W. and D. C. 

Ry Ft. Worth, Ter. 

J. A. MUNROE, Gen'l Frt. Agt Omaha, Neb. 

B. C.\MPBELL, Gen'l West'n Frt. Agt. ..Portland, Ore. 

F. B. Whitney, 1st Asst. Gen'l Frt. Agt. . Omaha, Neb. 
Elmer H. Wood, Asst. Gen'l Frt. Agt. . . 

F. Wild, Jr., Asst. Gen'l Frt. Agt Denver, Colo. 

S. W. EccLES, Asst. Gen'l Frt. Agt. ..Salt Lake, Utah 
J. G. Woodworth, Assistant General Western 

Freight Agent Portland, Ore. 

H. A. Johnson, Gen'l Agt. Freight Dept., 

San Francisco, Cal. 

S. M. Adsit, Gen'l Agt. Frt. Dept St. Joseph, Mo. 

H. G. Kaill, Gen'l Agt. Frt. Dept. .Kansas City, Mo. 

E. V. Maze, Gen'l Agt. Frt. Dept Butte, Mont. 

W. H. Hancock, Freight Claim Agt Omaha, Neb. 

OPERATING DEPARTMENT. 

J. O. Brinkerhoff, General Superintendent, 

Kansas Div Kansas City, Mo.- 

R. Blickensderfer, Acting General Superin- 
tendent, Nebraska Division Omaha, Neb.- 

R. J. DUNC.A.N, Gen'l Supt., Gulf Div Denver, Colo.- 

W. H. Bancroft, Gen'l Superintendent Mount- 
ain Division Ogden, Utah 

E. JIcNeill, Gen'l Supt. Pacific Div. . .Portland, Ore.. 

E. Buckingham, Supt. Car Service Omaha, Neb.. 

TELEGRAPH DEPARTMENT. 
L. H. KoRTY.Supt. of Telegraph Omaha. Neb. 

MECHANICAL DEPARTMENT. 
J. H. McConnell, Supt. Motive Power and Ma- 

chinen- Omaha, Neb. 

Fred Mertsheimer, Asst. Supt. Motive Power 

and Machinery Cheyenne, Wyo. 

CO.\L DEPARTMENT. 

J. S. Tebbets, Gen'l Manager Denver, Colo. 

G. C. Hewett, Supt. Mines Rock Springs, Wyo. 

TEST DEPARTMENT. 
H. B. Hodges, Chemist and Engineer of Tests, 

Omaha, Neb. 

SUPPLY DEPARTMENT. 
J. W. Griffith, Gen'l Purcha.sing Agt. Omaha, Neb. 

F. G. Wheeler, Asst. Gen'l Purchasing .A.gent, 

Portland, Ore. 

J. H. St.\fford, Gen'l Storekeeper Omaha, Neb. 

A. E. Hutchinson, Stationer " 

F. W.\SHBURN, Supt. Hotel Dept 

S. F. Rho.\ds, Supt. Stone Dept " 




ESTES DOME, ESTES PARK, COLORADO — on the Union Pacific System. 



INDEX. 



General Information. page 

List of Agents 9 

Pullman Palace Car Rates 11 

Pullman Dining Cars 13 

Meals 13 

Excursion Tickets and Rates of Fare 13 

Baggage Rates 15 

The Union Pacific System. 

Branches and Auxiliary Lines Com- 
prising the System 16 

ALap of the Union Pacific System 

and Connections Opposite 158 

Notes — Trains, Equipment, Junc- 
tions and Connections 21 

Outline of the Trip Across the_Con- 

tinent to Portland '...., 22 

Washington in March 25 

The Trip Across the Continent to 

San Francisco 27 

Colorado Points. 

Denver 31 

Idaho Springs 33 

Clear Creek Caiion 34 

Gray's Peak 38 

Map of Colorado 35 

Platte Cafion 41 

Boulder Canon 43 

Points About the Colorado Parks . . 44 

Estes Park 44 

North Park 44 

Middle Park 45 

South Park 45 

Mount Princeton Hot Springs .... 47 

Alpine Tunnel 49 

Breckenridge 50 

Leadville 50 

Gunnison 50 

Alpine Tours 51 

From the Alps to the Sea. 

Colorado, Springs, Colorado 53 

Manitou, Colorado 54 

The Garden of the Gods 54 

Pueblo, Colorado 56 

Trinidad, Colorado 57 

To the Gulf 57 

Fort Worth, Texas 58 



Wyoming Points. page 

Cheyenne 59 

Sherman 61 

Laramie 61 

Green River 61 

Evanston 63 

Yellowstone National Park 63 

Map of Yellowstone Park, Opposite 66 

Idaho Points. 

Pocatello 71 

Hailey 72 

Ketchum 73 

Boise City 73 

Guyer Hot Springs 73 

Soda Springs 74 

The Great Shoshone Falls 75 

Shoshone Tours 82 

Montana Points. 

Butte City 84 

Anaconda 84 

Garrison 84 

Helena 84 

Oregon Points. 

The Grande Ronde Valley 89 

Palouse Country and Spokane Falls 89 

The Dalles of the Columbia 91 

Portland 97 

Portland to San Francisco 97 

Portland to Alaska 99 

Portland to Puget Sound 99 

The Lower Columbia 99 

Crater Lake loi 

The Mount Shasta Route 102 

Columbia Tours 103 

The Alaskan Voyage. 

Historical 105 

Alaskan Routes 109 

The Course i n 

Table of Distances 113 

Utah Points. 

Ogden 115 

Echo Canon 117 

Weber Canon 117 

Syracuse Beach 117 

Ogden Canon 1 19 



6 



INDEX. 



Utah Points.— Continued. page 

Utah Hot Springs 119 

Willard Canon and Falls 121 

Garfield Beach 121 

Giant's Cave 129 

Great Salt Lake 129 

Map of Salt Lake Opposite 129 

Salt Lake City 133 

Salt Lake Tours 136 

California Points. 

The Yosemite Valley 137 

Mariposa and Calaveras Big Trees 139 



California Points.— Continued, page 
Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, etc . . 140 

San Francisco 140 

Monterey 143 

Lake Tahoe 143 

Health 145 

Hunting and Fishing 147 

Points of Interest Reached by the 

Union Pacific 152 

Elevations of Cities, Peaks, Passes 154 
Standard Publications 156 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Colorado. page 

Estes Dome, Estes Park 4 

Above the Palisades, Alpine Pass. . 14 
Cathedral Spires, South Park 

Branch Union Pacific System. . . 20 
Ten-Mile Caiion, South Park 

Branch Union Pacific System 

from Wheeler's, looking up. ... 24 

Gray's Peak 26 

James' Ranch, Estes Park 28 

The Loop, above Georgetown ... 30 

South Park, from Kenosha Hill. . . 32 

Middle Park, view of Grand River 40 

Dome Rock, Platte Caiion 42 

Idaho Springs, Central Branch 

Union Pacific System 88 

Wyoming. 

Green River Buttes 46 

Giant's Tea Kettle, Green River 
Buttes 48 

From the Alps to the Sea. 

Entrance to Estes Park, Colorado, 52 

Yellowstone National Park. 

Gardiner River Hot Springs 60 

Cliff in Grand Caiion of the Yel- 
lowstone 62 

Terrace and Park, Tyghee Pass. . 64 
Ford of Snake River ; Spearing 
Trout, Snake River ; Hunter's 

Cabin, Henry's Lake 66 

The Geysers 68 

Yellowstone Lake 80 



Idaho. 



Ferry at Great Shoshone Falls. ... 70 

Great Shoshone Falls 76 

Great Shoshone Falls 78 



Oregon. page 

Oneonta Gorge, Columbia River. . 86 
A Fish Wheel, Columbia River. . . 90 
Pillars ot Hercules, Columbia River 92 

A Glimpse of Mount Adams 94 

Rooster Rock, Columbia River. . . 96 

Crater Lake 98 

Multnomah Falls, Columbia River 100 

Alaska. 

Main Street, Sitka 104 

The Belle of Sitka 106 

Interior of Greek Church, Sitka. . . 108 
Alaskan Scenery no 

Utah. 

Pavilion at Garfield Beach, Great 

Salt Lake 114 

Witches' Rocks, Weber Canon ... 116 

Tunnel No. 3, Weber Caiion 118 

On the Beach at Garfield, Great 

Salt Lake 120 

West Shore of Antelope Island, 

Great Salt Lake 122 

Pelican Bay. Gunnison Island, 

Great Salt Lake 124 

Jack in the Pulpit, Echo Canon. . . 126 
Salt Lake City, from Prospect Hill 128 
Cliffs of Gunnison Island, Great 

Salt Lake 130 

Devil's Slide, Weber Caiion 132 

Giant's Cave, Garfield Beach, 
Great Salt Lake 134 

California. 

Yosemite Valley,from Artist's Point 138 
Bridal Veil Falls, Yosemite Valley 142 
Beach at Cliff House, SanFrancisco 144 
The Presidio and Drive to Fort 
Point, San Francisco 12 



" Know most of the rooms of thy native country before thou goest over the threshold 
thereof." — Fuller. 



Health and Pleasure Resorts. 




THERE IS THE EAST! 
—THERE IS INDIA!" 



HE road I propose is necessary to us — and now. The 
title to Oregon is settled, and a government established 
there. California is acquired, people are there, and a 
government must follow. We own the country from 
sea to sea, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, upon a 
breadth equal to the length of the Mississippi, and em- 
bracing the whole Temperate Zone. We can run a road, 
through and through, the whole distance, under our 
flag and under our laws. An American road to India, 
through the heart of our country, will revive upon it^ 
line all the wonders of which we have read, and eclipse 
them. The western wilderness, from the Pacific to the 
Mississippi, will start into life at its touch. Let us act up to the greatness of 
the occasion, and show ourselves worthy of the extraordinary circumstances in 
which we are placed, by securing, while we can, an American road to India 
— central and national — for ourselves and our posterity, now and hereafter, for 
thousands of years to come." [This is the road — The Union Pacific, " The 
Overland Route."] — Senator Thomas H. Benton, of Missouri, in the Senate of 
the United States, February j, i84g. 

The question, "Where shall we go for health and pleasure?" assumes 
greater importance each succeeding year with the American public, and these 
pages have been written to assist those who are in doubt in settling this impor- 
tant point, as well as to show them what a wonderful country lies between the 
Missouri River and the Pacific Coast. 

Americans go to Europe to see Switzerland and the Rhine, to spend a winter 
in Italy, to do the Pyrenees and the Alps, to visit the German Spas, the High- 
lands of Scotland, the Giant's Causeway of Ireland, and other places of inter- 



8 WESTERN RESORTS 

est ; when right in their own country, almost at their doors, are rivers, forests, 
lakes and mountains, and medicinal springs rivaling the Pool of Bethesda of 
old ; sublime scenery bordering on the weird and supernatural, quiet vales and 
dells far excelling those of Europe, or any other portion of the civilized world. 
These places, too, are easy of access, and it is not necessary to learn a foreign 
language to be able to enjoy them. 

Following up the sentiment so generally expressed nowadays, "America for 
scenery," it is important that every American, native or naturalized, should post 
himself, as a matter of patriotism and pride, on the resources and characteris- 
tics of his own country. 

Nowhere on the globe is there to be found such a variety of climate, scenery, 
and resources as between the Missouri River, or the ninety-sixth meridian, and 
the Pacific Ocean ; and in this magnificent stretch of country are found resorts 
which can be enjoyed at all seasons of the year. The best climate of every 
known country can be found in this area. Here Nature not only equals, but 
excels, everything that she has done for mankind in other portions of the globe ; 
and American enterprise and skill have made them accessible to the nations of 
the earth. 

To a vast majority of our people this great country was, until within the 
last few years, practically a sealed book, when its treasures of climate, scenery 
and products were opened up to the world, by the original completion and the 
later extensions of the Union Pacific, " The Overland Route." This little 
pamphlet is not a literary attempt, but simply a terse description of many places 
in brief, pointed paragraphs, the object being not to weary the general traveler 
who may chance to read it. 

It will be found that only a few of the most attractive and important points 
on this great transcontinental highway have been mentioned in the following 
pages, because suitable accommodations have not as yet been prepared at all of • 
them for the tourist, and the health and pleasure seeker. There are hundreds 
of other points that only await the magic touch of progress to awake from the 
sleep of ages, as did the fabled princess who awaited the coming of her prince. 
Year by year, more and more of these resorts will be developed for the enter- 
tainment and benefit of mankind. 

If these pages shall arouse the patriotism of Americans, and induce them to 
acquaint themselves with the great resources of their own country ; with the 
wonderful cures Nature provides at the health resorts for all the ills that flesh 
is heir to ; with the facilities for enjoyment at the pleasure resorts that the 
Union Pacific offers them along its lines in the " Far West," then their mission 
will have been accomplished. 



GENERAL INFORMATION. 



LIST OF AGENTS. 



Boston, Afass. — 290 Washington Street. — W. S. Condell, New England Freight and 
Passenger Agent. 

E. M. Newbegin, Travehng Freight and Passenger Agent. 

Biitte, Mont. — Corner Main and Broadway.— E. V. Maze, General Agent. 
Cheyenne, Wyo. — C. W. Sweet, Freight and Ticket Agent. 

Chicago, III. — 191 South Clark Street.— W. H. Knight, General Agent Passenger and 
Freight Departments. 
T. \V. Young, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

D. W. Johnston, Travehng Passenger Agent. 
W. T. Holly, City Passenger Agent. 

Cincinnati, Ohio. — 27 West Fourth Street. — ^J. D. Welsh, General Agent Freight and 
Passenger Departments. 
C. A. Starr, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. 

A. G. Shearman, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. 
T. C. Hirst, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

Council Bluff's , Jo7ua — Transfer Depot.— A. J. Manderson, General Agent. 

R. W. Chamberlain, Passenger Agent. 

J. W. Maynard, Ticket Agent. 

J. C. Mitchell, City Ticket Agent, 421 Broadway. 
Denver, Colo. — 1703 Larimer Street. — Geo. Ady, General Agent. 

F. B. Semple, City Passenger Agent. 

B. P. M. Kimball, City Ticket Agent. 

C. H. Titus, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

E. F. Lackner, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. 

Des Moines, Iowa — 218 Fourth Street. — E. M. Ford, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Ft. Worth, Tex. — W. V. Newlin, General Freight and Passenger Agent, Ft. W. & 
D. C. Railway. 

A. J. Ratcliff, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

N. S. Davis, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 401 Main Street. 
Helena, Mont.— 2^ North ALain Street.— H. O. Wilson, Ticket anil Freight Agent. 
Kansas City, Mo. — 1038 Union Avenue. — J. B. Frawley, General Agent. 

J, B. Reese, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

H. K. Proudfit, City Passenger Agent. 

T. A. Shaw, Ticket Agent. 

C. A. Whittier, City Ticket Agent, 1000 Main Street. 

A, W, MiLLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. 
London, England — Thos. Cook & Sons, European Passenger Agents, Ludo-ate Circus. 
Los Angeles, Cal. — 151 North Spring Street. — M alone Joyce, Agent Passenger Dep't. 

A. J. Hechtman, Agent Freight Department. 

(9) 



20 WESTERN RESORTS 

New Orleans, Zrt.— Lock Box I379-— F. L. Lynde, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
New Whatcom, Wash.—]. W. Alton, General Agent P>eight and Passenger Dep'ts. 
New York Ciiy—2?,7 Broadway.— R. Tenbroeck, General Eastern Agent. 

J. F. Wiley, Passenger Agent. 

J. D. Tenbroeck, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

S. A. Hutchison, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

Thos. S. Spear, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Ogden, Utah—\Jmon Depot.— C. A. Henry, Ticket Agent. 
Olympia, fF«.jA.— Second Street Wharf.— J. C. Percival, Ticket Agent. 
0?naha, Neb.—\^oi Farnam Street.— Harry P. Deuel, City Passenger and Ticket Agt. 

J. K. Chambers, Depot Ticket Agent, Union Depot, Tenth and Marcy Streets. 

M. J. Greevy, Traveling Passenger Agent, Ninth and Farnam Streets. 
Pittsburgh, Pa.—dpo Wood Street.— Wm, Dolan, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

L. T. Fowler, Traveling Freight Agent. 
Portland, Or^.— Corner Third and Oak Streets.— W. H. HuRLBURT, Assistant General 
Passenger Agent. 

Geo. H. Hill, Travehng Passenger Agent. 

Geo. S. Taylor, City Ticket Agent, corner First and Oak Streets. 

A L. Maxwell, Ticket Agent, Grand Central Station. 
Port Townsend, Wash.— Vnion Wharf.— Jas. W . McCabe, Ticket Agent. 
Pueblo, Colo.—2T,2, North Union Ave.— E. R. HARDING, General Agent. 
St. Joseph, Mc".— Chamber of Commerce.— S. M. Adsit, General Agent. 
St. Louis, Mo.— 21^ North Fourth Street.— J. F. Aglar, General Agent Freight 
and Passenger Departments. 

S. F. Hilton, City Freight and Passenger Agent. 

C. C. Knight, Freight Contracting Agent. 

E. R. Tuttle, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
N. Haight, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

Salt Lake City, Utah— 201 Main Street.— D. E. Burley, General Agent. 
C. E. Ingalls, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

F. F. ECCLES, City Ticket Agent. 

San Francisco, Cal.—i Montgomery Street.— D. W. Hitchcock, General Agent. 
V. A. Schilling, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
H. W. Burke, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
W. R. Vice, Pacific Coast Passenger Agent. 
J. F. Fugazi, Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Avenue. 
Seattle, Wash.— 70$ Second Street.— A. C. Martin, City Ticket Agent. 

C. E. Baldwin, Ticket Agent Dock. 
Sioux City, Lowa—^x^ Fourth Street.— D. M. Collins, General Agent. 
Geo. E. Abbott, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. 
H. M. Birdsall, City Ticket Agent. 
Spokane, Wash.— Cor. Riverside and Washington.— Perry Griffin, Passenger and 

Ticket Agent. 
Tacoma, Wash.— 74,6 Pacific Ave.— E. E. Ellis, Gen'l Agent Freight and Pass. Dep'ts. 
Victoria, B. C— 100 Government Street.— M. J. Bissell, Ticket Agent. 

C. S. MELLEN, E. L. LOMAX, 

General Traffic Manager, Gen'l Passenger and Ticket Agent, 

Omaha, Neb. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



11 



PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES. 

Subject to Chanj^c. 
Pullman's Palace Car Company now operates this class of service on 
the Union Pacific and connecting lines. 



PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN 



New York and Chicago 

New York and St. Louis 

Boston and Chicago 

Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City 

Chicago and Denver 

St. Louis and Kansas City 

St. Louis and Denver 

St. Louis and Omaha 

Kansas City and Cheyenne 

Council liUiffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Denver 

Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne 

Council Bkiffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Salt Lake City 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Ogden. 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Butte 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Portland 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas CityandFranciscoor Los Angeles 

Cheyenne and Portland 

Denver and Portland 

Denver and Los Angeles 

Denver and San Francisco 

Denver and Fort Worth 

Denver and New Orleans 

Pocatello and Butte 



Double 
Berths. 

f 5.00 

6. CIO 

5.50 

2.50 

6.00 

2.00 

5.50 

2.50 

4.50 

3-50 

4.00 

8.00 

8.<x) 

8.50 

13.00 

13.00 

10.00 

II .00 

II .00 

11.00 

5.50 

9.00 

2.CX3 



Drawing 
Room. 

$18.00 
22.00 
20.00 

9.00 
21.00 

7.00 
19.00 

9.00 
16.00 
12.00 
14.00 
28.00 
28.00 
32.00 
50.00 
50.00 
38.00 
4l .00 
42.00 
40.00 
20.00 
34.00 

7.00 



For a Section, twice the Double-Berth Rates will be charged. 
The private hotel, dining, hunting, and sleeping cars of the Pullman Com- 
pany will accommodate from twelve to eighteen persons, allowing a full bed to 
each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as private, observation, 
and smoking room.s, folding beds, reclining-chairs, buffets, and kitchens. They 
are ^^j'l/st f/ie tlii/ig" iox tourist.s, theatrical companies, sportsmen, and private 
parties. The hunting cars have special ccnveniences, being provided with dog- 
kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, etc. These cars can be chartered at follow- 
ing rates per diem (the time being reckoned from date of departure until return 
of same, unless otherwise arranged with the Pullman Company): 

LESS THAN TEN DAYS. 

per day. I PER DAY 

Hotel cars $50.00 ', Private or hunting cars $35.00 

Buffet cars 45 -oo Private cars with buffet 30.00 

Sleeping cars 40.00 | Dining cars 30.00 

Ten Days or Over. — $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, buffet, or 
sleeping-cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without lay-over 
between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be given up at destina- 
tion), as follows : 

Where berth rate is $i'5o, car rate will be $35.00 

" " " 2.00, " " " 45.00 

" " " 2.50, " " " , 55.00 

For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be increased $10.00. 




(12) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 13 

The foregoing rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. The 
commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered cars must 
contain not less than fifteen persons holding full first-class tickets, and another 
full-fare ticket will be required for each additional passenger over fifteen. If 
chartered "per diem" cars are given up en route, chartering party must arrange 
for return to original starting point free, or pay amount of freight necessary 
for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior of these cars can be had of any 
agent of the Company. 

PULLMAN DINING CARS 

Are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled Express running 
daily between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to " The Overland "Flyer" running 
daily between Council Bluffs and Portland, Oregon. 

MEALS. 

All trains, except those specified above (under head of Pullman Dining 
Cars) stop at regular eating stations, where first-class meals are furnished under 
the direct supervision of this Company by the Pacific Hotel Company. Neat 
and tidy lunch-counters are also to be found at these stations. 

EXCURSION TICKETS AND RATES OF FARE. 
Excursion tickets to prominent resorts west of the Missouri River are on 
sale during the summer months, in most of the Eastern cities, at greatly reduced 
rates of fare. ' These tickets are good for from thirty days to six months. 
While excursion tickets to Denver, Colorado, Salt Lake City, Utah, San Fran- 
cisco, California, and to Portland, Oregon, are on sale at its Missouri River 
terminals — Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, I,eavenworth, and 
Kansas City — the Union Pacific has also placed on sale, at greatly reduced rates, 
excursion tickets to all the prominent places and resorts on its lines in Colorado, 
Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washington and Utah; also excursion tickets 
for side trips have been placed on sale, at greatly reduced rates during the summer 
months, via the Union Pacific, at all its prominent places of resort in the above 
mentioned territory. For large excursion parties to Idaho Springs, Shoshone 
Falls, Soda Springs, Garfield Beach, Great Salt Lake, and Utah Hot Springs, 
the "Alpine Tours," and "Salt Lake Tours," and also for side trips to promi- 
nent points of interest near these resorts, the Union Pacific will make special 
excursion rates. 

Note. — For full descriptions of the "Alpine Tours" and Salt Lake Tours," 
see "Sights and Scenes in Colorado," and "Sights and Scenes in Utah," issued 
by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific. Send for "Sights and 
Scenes in Idaho and Montana," "Sights and Scenes in Wyoming." "Sights and 
Scenes in Oregon and Washington," and " Sights and Scenes in Alaska," and 




(14; 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 15 

"Sights and Scenes in California;" all issued by the Passenger Department of 
the Union Pacific, Omaha, Nebraska. 

BAGGAGE RATES. 

Subject to Change. 

Free baggage allowance on each full ticket, of any class, is 150 pounds, and 
on each half ticket 75 pounds, to railroad points, including San Francisco and 
all Pacific Coast points, except between stations in Nebraska, where the free 
baggage allowance is 200 pounds on full tickets, and 100 on half tickets. Bag- 
gage may be checked through from all points in the United States or Canada 
to Union Pacific points, or beyond, including Pacific Coast points. The Union 
Pacific was the first line west of the Missouri River to inaugurate this system. 

Passengers holding full first-class tickets, issued on steamship orders sold in 
foreign countries, for transportation through the United States to foreign ports 
in either direction, will be allowed 250 pounds of baggage free on each full 
ticket, and 125 pounds free on each half ticket. 

Extra baggage rate, per 100 pounds, is 12 per cent, of first-class limited 
fare. Free baggage allowance on stages is from 25 to 50 pounds and the charge 
for extra weight higher than for same distance by rail. 

Members of the same family can pack their usual allowance of baggage in 
one or more trunks, provided no trunk exceeds 250 pounds in weight. 

The extra baggage rate from Missouri River to points in California is $7.20 
per 100 pounds on all classes of tickets. 

Guxs. — Uncased guns will be carried in baggage car only, and no charge 
will be made for a distance of 100 miles or less. For distances over 100 miles, 
baggagemen may charge 25 cents for each passenger division. Cased guns will 
be checked free by baggage agents, as part of the usual baggage allowance, or 
they may be carried by passengers in coaches without charge. 

F(jR Care of Dogs. — Baggagemen will collect 25 cents per head for each 
division of less than 100 miles, and for distances over 100 miles at the rate of 
one-quarter of a cent per mile. 

Baby Carriages. — When accompanied by passengers with infants, may be 
checked as part of baggage allowance over this company's line, only; but when 
not thus accompanied, they must be turned over to the express company. 

Bicycles and Tricycles. — Will be checked as part of the usual baggage 
allowance, when accompanied by owner holding first-class tickets to local points. 



16 WESTERN RESORTS 

BRANCHES AND AUXILIARY LINES COMPRISING THE SYSTEM. 
MISSOURI RIVER DIVISION. 

NEBRASKA DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Main Line — Council Bluffs to Cheyenne 520.2 

Omaha and Republican Valley Branches — Sioux City to Columbus, Columbus to 
David City, Valley to Manhattan, Valparaiso to Fairfield, McCool Junction to 
Fairbury, Grand Island to Ord, St. Paul to Loup City, Boelus to Pleasanton, 

Oconee to Albion, and Genoa to Cedar Rapids , 687.1 

Julesburg District — Julesburg to La Salle i50-9 

U. P. D. & G. Ry. — Cheyenne to Douglas 167.9 

Total Nebraska Division 1,526.1 

KANSAS DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Main Line. — Kansas City, Mo., to Denver, Colo 639.1 

L, & L. Ry. — Leavenworth to Lawrence , 34.0 

L., T. & S.-W. Ry. — Leavenworth to Topeka 56. i 

Kansas Central Ry. — Leavenworth to Miltonvale 165.9 

St. J. & G. 1. R. R — St. Joseph to Grand Island 251.7 

K. C. & O. Ry.— Fairfield to Alma 87.2 

Junction City & Fort Kearney Railway— Junction City to Concordia and Belleville. 87.1 

Solomon R. R. — Solomon to Beloit 57.3 

Salina and Southwestern Railway — Salina to McPherson 35.5 

Hutchinson & Southern Ry. — Hutchinson to State Line 82.2 

Union Pacific, Lincoln & Colorado Railway — Salina to Oakley, via Colby 225.3 

Wyandotte & Enterprise Spurs — Armstrong to Wyandotte, and Detroit to Enterprise 4.0 

Total Kansas Division 1,725.4 

GULF DIVISION. 

COLORADO DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Denver Pacific Ry. — Denver to Cheyenne 106.7 

Louisville to Lafayette 3.0 

[ Denver to Colorado Junction 130.5 

Jersey to C. C. Cut-off 3.1 

Loveland to Arkins 8.0 

1^ Greeley to Stout 38.6 

Boulder Branch — Brighton to Boulder 27.9 

r Argo Junction to Boulder 27.0 

I Golden to Forks Creek (x) 13.6 

TT Ti T^ I. /- T-, ' Forks Creek to Central City (x) 11. i 

U. P., D. 6c G. Ry. ^ „ , „ , , ^ //\ 

j r orks Creek to Graymount (x) 29. 5 

Boulder to Sunset (x) 12.8 

1 Ralston to Glencoe (x) 4.2 

(x) Narrow Gauge. 



U. P., D. & G. Ry. 



"1 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 17 

GULF DIVISION— Continued. 

Denver to Como (x) 88.2 

Como to Leadville (x) 62.9 

Conio to Si. Elmo (x) 65. 1 

St. Elmo to Baldwin (x) 66.0 

D., L. & G. Ry. -J Sheridan to Morrison (x) g.5 

Dickey to Keystone (x) 6.9 

Garos to London (x) 1 5.5 

Schwander's to Buena Vista (x) 3.7 

King to Coal Branch Junction (x) 3.3 



Total Colorado Division 737. r 

NEW MEXICO DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Main Line — Denver to Ft. Worth 804 o 

Manitou Junction to Colorado Springs 9.0 

Franceville Junction to Franceville 4..0 

Trinidad to Vasquez 39-4 

Washburn to Panhandle City 16.0 

Beshoar to Chappell 6.5 

Cuchara Junction to Walsenburg 6.6 

Chicosa to Forbes and Hastings 13 . 1 

Wichita Falls to Seymour 51 .0 



Total , 949-6 

Total Gulf Division 1,686.7 

MOUNTAIN DIVISION. 

WYOMING DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Mail! Line — Cheyenne to Ogden 514-7 

Laramie, North Park & Pacific Railway— Laramie to Soda Lake ... 13.2 

Echo & Park City Railway — Echo to Park City 28.2 

Utah Eastern District — Coalville to Summit Mine 3.0 

Carbon Cut-off — Allen Junction to Hanna 16. i 

Almy Spur 3.1 



Total Wyoming Division 578.3 

IDAHO DIVISION. 

MILES. 

I Ogden to McCammon 1 11 . i 

O. S. L. & U. N. Ry. < Pocatello to Silver Bow 255.4 

' Cache Junction to Preston 42.2 

O. S. L. &U. N. Ry. — Granger to Huntington. Shoshone to Ketchum, and Nampato 

Boise 629 . 7 



Total Idaho Division 1,038.4 



(x) Narrow Gauge. 



18 WINTER RESORTS 

UTAH DIVISION. 

MILES. 

[ Ogden via Salt Lake City to Frisco 275 . 5 

Syracuse Junction to Syracuse 5.8 

Salt Lake City to Garfield Beach and Terminus 37 -O 

Saltair Junction to Saltair 2.5 

Lehi Junction to Tintic. . , 53.3 

Ironton to Silver City 3.9 

Mammoth Junction to Eureka 3.3 



O., S. L. & 
U. N. Ry. 



Total Utah Division 381 

Total Mountain Division ijQpS 



PACIFIC DIVISION. 

MILES. 



O., S. L. & U. N. Ry.— Huntington to Portland 404 

.Umatilla Junction to Walla Walla 58 

Spokane Falls Branch — Pendleton to Spokane Falls 251 

Elgin Branch — La Grande to Elgin 20 

Dayton Branch — Bolles Junction to Dayton 13 

Pomeroy Branch — Starbuck to Pomeroy 29 

Pampa Branch — La Crosse Junction to Connell 53 

Moscow Branch — Colfax to Moscow 27 

Pleasant A^alley Branch — Winona Junction to Seltice 47 

MuUan Branch— Tekoa to MuUan 86 

Burke Branch — Wallace to Burke 6 

Heppner Branch — Willows Junction to Heppner 45 



Total rail lines i ,044 . 6 

Water Lines : miles. 

Portland and British Columbia Steamships 700.0 

Portland and San Francisco Steamships 660.0 

Puget Sound Steamers 392.0 

Columbia River Steamers 208.0 

Willamette River Steamers 45 o 

Snake River Steamers 77 .0 



Total water lines 2,082.0 

Total rail lines i ,044 . 6 



Total Pacific Division, miles 3,126.6 

MONTANA UNION RAILWAY. 

MILES. 

Main Line — Butte to Garrison 51.2 

Anaconda Branch — Stuart to Anconda 8.4 



Total Montana Union Railway 59'6 



(x) Narrow Gauge. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



19 



RECAPITULATION. 

MILES. 

Nebraska Division i ,526 . i 

Kansas Division 1,725.4 

Mountain Division i ,998 .0 

Pacific Division 3,126.6 

Gulf Division i ,686 7 

Montana Union Railsvay 59-6 

Total 10,122.4 




S^- 




(20" 



NOTES. 




TRAINS, EQUlPMEN'r, JUNCTIONS, 
AND CONNECTIONS. 



i^^ 



and Portland. 



T is worth while knowing that two trains leave Council Bluffs 
-md Omaha and one train from Sioux City and St. Joseph, every 
cHv for Denver, Ogden, Salt Lake City, Los Angeles, San Fran- 
cisco and Portland. One of these trains, the fast one from 
Council Bluffs and Omaha, is called " The Overland Flyer." 
From Kansas City and Leavenworth two fast express trams 
leave daily for Denver, Cheyenne, Salt Lake City, San Francisco 

T7r^m Ft Worth Tcx., onc fast express train leaves daily for 
and Portlanil r rom r l. \>(jii.u, '■^■^■i i „ , o 

Denve Cheyenne, Ogden, Salt Lake City, Butte, Helena Spokane, San 
T-Zd CO Portland Taconm and Seattle. The equipment of these trams ,s 
!, sur nlssed Tnd aU that can be desired. A good road-bed, standard gauge 

ck 'stee Uan , iron bridges, stone culverts, Puliman palace sleepers, Pullman 
d n t; a , Pul man tourist sleepers, free colonist sleeping cars, free rechnmg 
chair cars and modern day coaches combined, insure safety, speed and comfort. 

The important points where connections are made are as follows : 

JULESBURO, Colorado, five miles from the Colorado-Nebraska State line, 
where the Council Bluffs & Denver line branches off to Denver. 

Denver, Colorado, where the Colorado branches of the Union Pacific 
connect fo Colorado Springs, Pueblo, Trinidad, LeadviUe, Idaho Springs and 
o her important cities, resorts, and places in Colorado, and -'-- "- Gu, 
division from Ft. Worth, and Kansas division from Kansas City, joins the Denver 
Pacific main line from Denver to Cheyenne. 

CHEVENNE, Wyoming, where the Denver Pacific main '- °- ^ "« 
,0 Chevenne, join the Nebraska main line and the Cheyenne and Northern 
branch 'for Douglas and the Black Hills c.nnec.s with the main line. 

(■il) 



22 WESTERN RESORTS 

Granger, Wyoming, where the Union Pacific branches off for Portland, 
Oregon. The trains, however, connect at Green River, thirty miles east of 
Granger, and are made up at that point. 

PocATELLO, Idaho, where the Utah & Northern branch of the Union Pacific 
connects with the main line for Butte, Garrison, and Helena. From Pocatello 
the Utah & Northern branch also diverges south to Ogden, Salt Lake City, and 
Garfield Beach. 

Beaver Canon, Idaho, on the Utah «^ Northern branch, where connection 
is made with the Union Pacific stages for the Yellowstone National Park. 

Shoshone Station, Idaho, on the Union Pacific Ry., where connection is 
made, via stage, for the Great Shoshone Falls, and also where a branch of 
the Union Pacific Ry. makes connection for Hailey and Ketchum. 

Nampa, Idaho, where the Idaho Central branch connects with the main line 
for Boise City. 

Ogden, Utah, where the Utah Central branch of the Union Pacific connects 
with the main line for Salt Lake City, Garfield Beach, Provo, Spanish Forks, 
and Frisco, and also where the Southern Pacific Railroad connects for Sacra- 
mento, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. 

Salt Lake City, Utah, where the Utah & Nevada branch of the Union 
Pacific connects for Garfield Beach, on the shores of the Great Salt Lake. 

Pendleton, Oregon, where a branch runs north to Walla Walla and Spo- 
kane Falls. 

Portland, Oregon, where connection is made with LTnion Pacific steamers 
for San Francisco and Puget Sound points. 

OUTLINE OF THE TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT TO 

PORTLAND. 

The Union Pacific is the great National highway and forms a part of the 
first transcontinental line of railroad from ocean to ocean. It was conceived, 
and its construction authorized, as a war measure, the needs of the Gov- 
ernment during the war of the rebellion having clearly shown the necessity 
for it. 

Years have demonstrated that this grand road was most wisely and skillfully 
planned. There is no other line to-day possessing its peculiar advantages, and 
their can never be a railway constructed across the continent like it, for the 
simple reason that the Union Pacific occupies the very best belt of country 
obtainable. There is immunity, on the o ie hand, from the blazing suns and 
stifling alkali dust of the southern deserts; and on the other, the lightest possi- 



KOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 23 

ble snow-fall to be encountered on the mountain summits. It is the natural 
highway either for summer or winter, spring or autumn, and it must forever 
remain so. No amount of specious reasoning can shake the solid fact, that the 
Union Pacific line is the one railway across the continent unassailable by sum- 
mer heat or winter storms. 

The passenger trains of this great railway are truly cosmopolitan in the curi- 
ous make-up of their occupants. As one walks through the handsome sleepers 
or day-coaches on any of the trains, one sees a dozen different national types 
and hears as many different dialects. There is a composite world on wheels, 
and its inhabitants, for the time being, hail from all quarters of the globe. 

Leaving Council Bluffs via the Nebraska main line, and Kansas City via the 
Kansas main line, the two lines join at Cheyenne. The Kansas main line runs 
to Denver ; and the trip from Denver to Cheyenne, along the foothills of the 
Rocky Mountains, affords the tourist a kaleidoscopic panorama of hills, fields, 
rivers, running brooks, and lofty mountains. Leaving Cheyenne the summit 
of the Rockies is passed at Sherman, elevation 8,247 feet, the highest point on 
the transcontinental ride between the Missouri River and the Pacific coast. 
Leaving Sherman, Ames' Monument and Hippopotamus Rock can be seen from 
the windows of the car. Next, Dale Creek bridge, a wonderful structure over 
Dale Creek, is passed. Then comes Rawlins, Rock Springs, and GREEN 
RIVER, where the trains for Portland, Oregon, are made up, although they 
do not make their departure from the main line until Granger is reached, 
thirty miles west of Green River, and the trip across the continent is continued 
to the great Northwest. The road goes along over moderate curves and grades, 
through pretty little valleys along the Bear River, until the great Territory of 
Idaho is entered at Border Station. Then on through Soda Springs and 
Pocatello — the junction with the Utah & Northern branch for Butte, Garrison, 
and Helena. Ne.xt, Shoshone Station is reached, where the junction is made 
for the Great Shoshone Falls, via stage, and also for Hailej and Ketchum^ via 
rail ; thence from Shoshone Station the road stretches away through Nampa, 
where the junction is made with the Idaho Central branch for Boise City, 
nineteen miles distant ; and on the train goes from Nampa, through Cald- 
well and Weiser to Huntington, within Oregon ; thence from Huntington 
through Baker City, Union, La Grande, Pendleton, and Umatilla Junction to 
"The Dalles," which takes its name from the dalles of the Columbia.- From 
this point on to East Portland the trip is one replete with scenic wonders. 
Arriving in Portland, which is the metropolis of the Northwest Pacific coast, 
and a large, handsome, cosmopolitan city, the trip "Across the Continent " to 
Portland, Oregon, is complete — one of the grandest within the reach of the 
traveler. 

From Portland, magnificent ocean steamers depart for the far distant Orient. 
Fine steamers also ply over the broad bosom of the Pacific Ocean from 




(24) 



KOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 25 

Portland to Alaska, and that wonderful Territory of the North. The 
Union Pacific's steamers, which compare favorably with the Atlantic 
steamships, make regular trips twice a week from Portland to San 
Francisco. 

The Pacific Coast Steamship Company also run from Portland to Victoria, 
B. C, connecting with the Union Pacific Ry.'s line of steamers from Victoria, 
via Port Townsend and Seattle, to Tacoma. 

During the excursion season of 1890 many thousand tourists visited Alaska. 
To say they were pleased conveys but a faint impression of their enthusiasm. 
They were delighted — charmed. Ask any of them, it matters not whom, they 
all make the same report and tell the same story of the matchless grandeur of 
the trip, of the midnight sun, of the placid waters, of the aurora borealis, of the 
majestic mountains, of the inland seas, of the mighty glaciers, of the thunder- 
ing iceberg plunging into the sea and floating off in its glory of inimitable 
splendor, of the wealth of fish, timber and minerals, of the biggest quartz mill 
ever constructed, of the queer customs of the natives, of novelty and startling 
incidents that may well make the trip the object of a lifetime. There is noth- 
ing like it. 

WASHINGTON IN MARCH. 

Mr. E. V. Smalley, the well known journalist, in speaking of this delightful 
region, says: "Early in March I left the storms and snows of the Eastern States, 
and went to the shores of Puget Sound. I speiit a week in Seattle and two 
days in Tacoma. The weather was like an English April. It could not be 
closely compared with that of any locality on the Atlantic Slope, but so far as 
temperature was concerned it was as warm as early May in St. Paul. The 
mercury ranged from forty at night to sixty-five at noon. Every day except 
one it rained more or less in occasional warm, light showers. Now and then 
the sun peeped out, but never for long. The quality of the air was soft and 
agreeable. I did not wear an overcoat at any time except when driving. Very 
few people carried umbrellas, and those few appeared to be new-comers from 
the East. The older residents did not mind the misty rain when moving about 
the streets. 

"In the woods many kinds of vegetation had not bf en killed by the winter's 
frosts, and still showed the green leaves of last year. The door-yards in the 
towns were gay with flowers. Nelson Bennett, the railroad and tunnel builder, 
told me that when news came of the terrible blizzard in New York and other 
eastern cities, he and Mrs. Bennett, made up a number of little nosegays, and 
enclosing them in hollowed-out potatoes, mailed them to friends in those cities. 
In each box was a card inscribed: 'Picked in the open air in Tacoma on the 
day following the great blizzard in the East.' " 




(26) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 27 

"On the nineteenth of March I left the Sound country, with its warm, moist, 
caressing airs and its cloudy skies, and crossing the Cascade Mountains, where 
the snow lay deep in the forests, found myself in a wholly different climate. 
By the time the train had descended into the Yakima Valley the clouds were 
all gone and the whole landscape was bathed in brilliant sunshine. There was 
a little sharp, sub-acid flavor in the air which told of early spring, but this 
together with the glorious sunshine, gave to the weather an exhilarating effect. 
At Spokane Falls during the last ten days of March the weather was as agree- 
able as early May would be in Minnesota if there were no rain. The sky was 
of a brilliant summer blue, with light, white clouds, and all the spring flowers 
were in bloom. In fact, the buttercups had been out, the people told me, since 
early in February. This is not our Eastern buttercup, of the meadows and 
brook-sides, but a flower with a short stem that grows on dry hill slopes and 
among the rocks. Indoors it was cool enough in the forenoon for a little fire 
to be agreeable, but outdoors, as soon as the sun was fairly up, the air was 
delightfully warm. The nights were cool, but not cold enough to freeze water. 

"Spokane Falls has an elevation of about 2,000 feet above the sea-level and 
is as far north as Fargo and Duluth; yet spring comes as early as in Northern 
Georgia or Alabama. Is it to be wondered at that so many people are going 
to Washington Territory because they want to live were the climate is mild and 
agreeable?" 

THE TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT TO SAN FRANCISCO. 

From GREEN RIVER, the trip across the continent to San Francisco is 
continued. Three miles west of Green River is Fish Cut. (ireen River buttes 
are objects of interest, and are within sight for miles. After passing Granger, 
Evanston is soon reached. At Wahsatch Station the summit of the Wahsatch 
range of mountains is reached. The elevation is 6,824 feet, and at this point 
the road enters Echo Canon. Echo Creek, which runs through the canon, is 
crossed thirty-one times in twenty-six miles. Three and a half miles west of 
Wahsatch, the train runs into a tunnel 900 feet long. One mile east of Castle 
Rock is a queer formation of rock resembling the ruins of and old castle. 
"Hanging Rock" is what its name indicates. Two and a half miles west of 
Emory, on top of the bluff, is a rock called "Jack-in-the-pulpit," and further on 
can be seen the heights of Echo Canon, on top of which are the old Mormon 
fortifications. Then comes "Steamboat Rocks." Just before reaching Echo 
are seen the "Amphitheatre," "Pulpit Rocks," and " Bromley's Cathedral." At 
Echo Station, Weber Canon is entered. One and a half miles west of Echo 
can be seen the "Witch Rocks." Five miles further on is the 1,000-mile tree, 
and a mile further on is the "Devil's Slide." Echo and Weber caiions compare 
favorably with the celebrated Colorado canons. Three and a half miles west 
of Corydon, the canon broadens out, and to the left are noticed the first of the 




(28) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 39 

Mormon settlements. About one-half mile away, between Peterson and Uintah 
Station, "Devil's Gate'' is to be seen, and shortly after the country widens into 
the Great Salt Lake Valley, when Ogden is reached. The first view of the val- 
ley after the surfeit of mountain scenery, is one of striking contrast, quiet and 
pleasant to the eye. Between Cheyenne and Ogden, about ten miles of snow 
sheds altogether are passed at different points on the line. These sheds are 
located between Granite Canon and Buford, Buford and Sherman, Sherman 
and Dale Creek, Dale Creek and Harney, Wilcox and Aurora, Carbon and 
Simpson, Simpson and Percy, and Piedmont and Aspen, all in Wyoming. These 
sheds are quite a feature of the ride across the continent, the Southern Pacific 
road having about thirty miles altogether on its line between Ogden and Sacra- 
mento. Ogden is 1,034 miles from Council Bluffs, and 833 miles from San 
Francisco; the trip to Salt Lake City and Garfield Beach is made from this point. 
From Ogden, the trip is made over the Central Pacific Railroad, over great 
plains and through immense snow sheds, great mountain ranges, beautiful val- 
leys, and jagged foothills. 

Leaving Ogden, the train passes Promontory, which was intended to be the 
point of junction of the two roads forming the transcontinental route, namely, 
the Union and Central Pacific railroads. Later on, Ogden was decided upon as 
a compromise. 

The crowning scenes of the trip across Utah, Nevada, and California are 
not reached until Reno is passed. Cape Horn, Emigrant Gap, the Sierra 
Nevadas, Donner Lake, and other objects of more than ordinary interest will 
be found. Nevada, of course, is celebrated for her famous mines. The great 
mines of Virginia City and the Sutro Tunnel attract numerous visitors. The 
marvelous Carson and Humboldt sinks, in which the waters of all the rivers in 
the State of Nevada, save one, are swallowed, the Mud Lakes, the Borax 
marshes, and countless numbers of thermal springs, have been the wonder of 
the scientist and the delight of the tourist. One hundred and fifty-five miles 
from Reno is Sacramento, a beautiful city, and the capital of California. It is 
delightfully located upon the east bank of the Sacramento River, in the midst of 
the most productive grain fields, vineyards and orchards in the world. The 
climate is delightful, and the surrounding country entrancing. 

From Sacramento, the Southern Pacific branches off via Lathrop to Los 
Angeles, from which point the prominent cities and noted resorts of Southern 
California are readily reached. From Sacramento, the Davis cut-off, now the 
main line of the Southern Pacific road, takes the tourist through to Oakland, 
where a transfer is made across an arm of the bay to San Francisco, and here 
this part of the trip "Across the Continent" terminates at San Francisco, where 
old Sol, darkly red from his day's exertion, sinks to rest in the broad bosom of 
the Pacific Ocean. 




(30) 



COLORADO POINTS. 




()\ ORADO is a Spanish word, signifying "red" or "color- 
ed " It formed a part of the Louisiana purchase in 1803, 
and on its organization as a Territory in February, 1861, 
It was made up of parts of Kansas, Nebraska, Utah, and 
New Mexico. Vasquez de Coronado was probably the 
first white explorer to reach this section in 1540; in later 
years Captain Pike headed a party in 1806, Colonel Long 
in 1820, and Fremont in 1842-4. Colorado has an area of 104,000 square 
miles, and is 380 miles in length and 280 miles wide; ranks first in silver and 
fourth in gold, and in mineral productions is accounted the richest of the 
States. It was admitted to the Union August i, 1876, and is known as the 
"Centennial State." 



DENVER. 



Denver is the social and commercial centre, not alone of Colorado, but also 
of the outlying Territories, and is called the " Queen City of the Plains." Its 
elevation is 5,170 feet above the sea-level. It is the gate to the mineral and 
scenic phenomena that have made the Rocky Mountains famous. In addition 
to its other advantages, it has a peerless climate, more conducive to outdoor 
enjoyment than any other known locality. It is situated on the plains at the 
foot, and almost within, the shadow of the " Mighty Hills," which protect it 
alike from the extremes of summer and winter weather. The streets are long 
and level, and on either side are rows of shade trees — nourished by streams of 
running water — casting a shade alike upon the mansion and the cottage. 
There is not a paved street in the city, nor one in which the natural roadway 
has been improved, and there is no other city whose thoroughfares are as 
smooth and solid. Its hotels are excellent ; in fact, they have all the improve- 

(31) 




[32' 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 33 

merits and modern conveniences i)ossessed by the large hotels in the East, and 
the best ones would be first-class even in Chicago, St. Louis, New York or 
Boston. 

From Denver there is an unbroken view of the Rocky Mountains for nearly 
three hundred miles, reaching from beyond Long's Peak on the north to the 
historical summit of Pike's Peak on the south. This lovely mountain view is 
an everyday affair to the citizens of Denver, but nowhere in the world can its 
beauty and grandeur be surpassed. 

The Union Pacific runs two solid trains each way daily between Council 
Bluffs and Denver, and two solid trains each way daily between Kansas City 
and Denver. 

IDAHO SPRINGS. 

Idaho Springs, 7,543 feet above the sea-level, is a beautiful place located in 
Clear Creek Caiion. It is reached from Denver, via Golden, on the Colorado 
Central Branch of the Union Pacific. 

In so far as nature equips resorts, Idaho Springs is the finest that the Rocky 
Mountains afford. It is thirty-seven miles from Denver, situated in a cup, as 
it were, formed by the receding, half-encircling sides of the caiion. The 
heights on either side are not rocky and rugged, but verdant and inviting. 
Sometimes deer are seen wandering through them, almost within sight of the 
hotels. The place has a population of over 2,000 people, and some of the 
cottages cling to the sides of the canon in a very unique and perplexing man- 
ner. The roads are level and smooth, and lead to the most delightful retreats. 
The hotels are good, and society the best. Idaho Springs is so near Denver 
that many families from the latter city summer here, stopping either at its 
excellent hotels or at the adjoining cottages. 

The springs themselves are a great attraction, resting the wearied and heal- 
ing the sick. Hot and steaming they bubble and hiss from the ground, or icy 
cool they rise to the surface, and steal away in glassy streams. Besides the 
numerous private baths, there is also a mammoth swimming bath, in which a 
good swim may be enjoyed, as a current from the earth's bosom is continually • 
flowing. The natural cavern, hot as a Turkish bath-room, is more effective 
than that penetrating bath. It boils impurities from the blood and aches from 
the bones. There seems to be life in it. The pool that the angel troubled in 
olden times never worked greater curative wonders. 

People drink the cool water with the same zest that they bathe in the warm, 
and with equally good results. It has everything that the delicate require, such 
as pure air, constant sunshine, and invigorating waters. An experienced and 
traveled physician has started a sanitariimi at Idaho Springs, selecting it because 
it has more days of sunshine in a year than any place within his knowledge. 



34 WESTERN RESORTS. 

The following is an analysis of its hot waters : 

Carbonate of soda 52 

Carbonate of lime 16 

Carbonate of magnesia 4 

Carbonate of iron 7 

Sulphate of soda 50 

Sulphate of magnesia 32 

Chloride of sodium 7 

Silicate of soda 6 



Total 177.69 

CLEAR CREEK CANON. 

Clear Creek Cafion is one of the wildest gorges in Colorado. Through the 
solid rock of this gorge has been blasted the road-bed of the Union Pacific. It 
is the most accessible gorge of any in the State. In the days of stages and 
freight-wagons, it was used as a thoroughfare. The canon is only about one 
hour's ride from Denver, and it is reached from that city, via Golden, by the 
Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific. This branch until it reaches 
the foothills, runs through fields as green and past farmhouses as pleasant as 
any of which the older States can boast. 

Leaving Denver LInion Depot the road winds along past Argo and Arvada 
to Golden, a pretty and thrifty place just fairly in the mountains. Its site is 
the bed of an ancient lake, which has left its smooth-washed boulders and water- 
marks, the latter high in the air along the buttes. The road enters the canon 
a few miles west of Ciolden, and continues on up to Forks Creek, where the 
passenger trains divide ; one section hurries onward up to Central City, along a 
branch of Clear Creek Canon, while the other continues along the caiion proper 
to Idaho Springs, Georgetown, and over the celebrated " Loop " to Silver 
Plume and Graymont at the foot of Gray's Peak. 

The caiion is a marvelous cliff, worn through the solid rock by Clear Creek, 
dashing and roaring near the track, which crosses it at short intervals. Its 
sides, timeworn in a thousand grotesque forms, rise from 500 to 1,500 feet, 
making the sky look like a narrow strip. In places there are interesting gullies, 
through which rivulets come silvering down, and the sunlight strikes across the 
sombre caiion. Trees grow thick in places, and crown a portion of the heights. 

At Beaver Brook there is a pavilion for dancing and other accommodations 
for picknickers. 

From Forks Creek the road branches off to Black Hawk and Central City, 
two towns really merging into one. They are but like over a mile apart in 
actual distance, yet to reach Central City from Black Hawk the train passes over 
four miles of marvelously constructed track called the " Switch Back," passing. 



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FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 37 

as it rises, the dumps of famous mines, and above crushing and grinding mills. 
From Central City there is a good stage line to Idaho Springs, so that these 
springs are also accessible from Central City, and the journey affords a view 
seldom surpassed. 

From Forks Creek the road winds along the main canon, through Idaho 
Springs to Georgetown. This town is built on silver-bearing soil, and is sur- 
rounded on three sides by the mountains. It is strange to see this town of 
4,000 people, an animated gem in the setting of the Rockies, with long, roomy, 
stoneless streets and handsome residences. It has an altitude of 8,476 feet — 
considered an ideal height by many. Georgetown seems at first to be the end 
of Clear Creek Canon, but there is an opening beyond, and through it the road 
has forced its way. 

Green Lake is an emerald gem, sparkling in the sunlight, two miles away 
from Georgetown, and 2,000 feet higher. The lake is clear as crystal, but the 
basin that holds it is green, the sand m it is green, and the moss festoons it like 
a green veil. In places its depth is unknown, and its feeding springs have 
never been found. In its depths the gaunt limbs of skeleton trees, dead but 
erect, beckon from below the ripples on its surface, while trout glide through 
the branches where once the songster of the forest plumed its wings. At one 
end of the lake is the Battle Ground of the Gods, where, according to Indian 
legends, great boulders lie where the wrath of warring deities hurled them. 
Some of the largest of these have formed the Cave of the Winds, through 
which the breezes dolefully sigh. 

After leaving Georgetown, the chief point of interest is " The Loop," and 
here it is that the real glories of the trip are appreciated. The mind can 
readily understand how a train may wind through a chasm. It is less easy, 
however, to realize how, beginning to rise along the side, the elevation con- 
tinues until the tourist looks down upon a town, as it were, in miniature. Con- 
tinuing on its tortuous course, the train worms its way up a steep grade, carved 
and blasted through the rock, and skirts the sides of the mountains that lose 
their crests in snow. In the valley flows the little stream of Clear Creek. Past 
Devil's Gate and Bridal Veil Falls the engine curves and climbs. Looking 
directly above, a railroad track is seen on a high iron bridge over-spanning the 
rack almost at right angles, but in the form of a crescent. The tourist won- 
deringly inquires, " What road is that above and how did it get there ? " For a 
little way the track is comparatively straight ; then it varies to the right, crosses 
the creek and starts down the valley, but still going up grade. For perhaps a 
quarter of a mile this continues. Then the creek is crossed again on a high 
iron bridge. Looking directly down, a trach is seen below. Then the tourist 
wonders what track that is and how it got there. He looks again before satis- 
fying himself that it is the same track he just passed over. He is now on the 
bridge up at which he was looking but a moment ago. From the top, six 



38 WESTERN RESORTS. 

pieces of track, apparently detached, can be seen. He then reahzes that he has 
just ridden over an immense loop — one of four in existence. There is one on 
the Southern Pacific Railroad, one in Switzerland, and one in the Andes of 
South America, but this is the most complex of them all. The bridge just 
crossed is 300 feet long and 86 feet high. From Georgetown it can be seen one 
way nestled in the mountains; looking at it from the other way there seems to 
be nothing but a confusion of tracks. 

It is a remarkable climb from here to the Big Fill, which is 76 feet high, but 
too sharp a curve to admit of a bridge, and comes nearer being a duplication 
of " The Loop." Georgetown is still in sight beyond the three parallel tracks 
of "The Loop." Looking down the final curve there is a wealth of track, but 
it dodges hither and thither, no portion seemingly having any special relation 
to its neighbor ; occasionally the entire trackage comes into view at once. 

After passing " The Loop " and Silver Plume, Graymont, the terminus of the 
railway, is reached. The tourist must not neglect to make this trip, and be 
sure to see sunrise from Gray's Peak, as it is one of the most celebrated in 
America. 

GRAY'S PEAK. 

Gray's Peak is reached from Denver through Clear Creek Caiion, via 
Golden, Forks Creek, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, and Silver Plume to Gray- 
mont, the terminus of the railway, from which station the ascent must be 
made. 

This peak is hidden by intervening mountains from the view at Graymont, 
the station where horses are taken for its ascent. There is a cosy little hotel 
here with plenty of safe horses and guides, but the trail is so easy that a child 
could almost lead the way. Gray's is higher than Pike's or Long's Peak, and 
Blanca only exceeds it by a few feet in height. Mounting after breakfast, and 
after a sharp turn to the left an earnest climb begins that continues over ridge 
and wooded gullies for two miles. The road has now dwindled to a path. On 
the left are abrupt heights, to which cling the lonely cabins of miners. The 
tunnels above them appear to have no greater circumference than rabbit holes. 
The trails lead across grassy-banked rivulets and blooming knolls past Kelso 
Mountain ; then, rounding the hill, Gray's Peak looms up unobscured for the 
first time. Gray's Peak is not rough and chasmed, but its vastness seems all 
the greater for the reason that it has preserved such a geological calm, and 
now, like a monarch, mighty in its superiority, looks down upon its fellows, 
sending the morning shadow of its greatness far on to the Pacific slope, and its 
evening profile toward the remote Atlantic. It is a mass, dread and awful. 
The air is rare and clear. Snow is piled about in eternal drifts, and below each 
drift, drawing its life from the exuding dampness, is a bed of flowers. Strange 
anomaly! Winter's hoary locks decked with the buds of June. Vegetation is 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 39 

soon left behind, except here and there a hardy plant, rooted in the rocks. The 
trail ahead is seen on a series of inclined plains to the very crest, going back- 
ward and forward, but always rising. The hills and cliffs, which seemed so 
lofty, are now far below, and the lesser mountains are left behind, the only one 
unconquered being Gray's Peak. A wavering line stretches back to the valley, 
and the tourist wonders vaguely if that is the trail he has just come over. The 
horse pants as he takes the last turn, his shoes clink upon the granite jewels of 
the continental crown, and Gray's Peak is beneath you. The sea is 14,441 feet 
below your level. Hats off ! The Genius of this sublime solitude demands 
homage. 

They who have traversed the globe say that it affords but one such prospect. 
A pictured landscape so mighty in conception that it overpowers, yet harmoni- 
ous as an anthem in all its infinite diffusion of color and form, framed only by 
the limit of the eye's vision — a picture where the lakes gleam and the rivers 
flow — where the trees nod and the cloud-ships clash in mystic collision with the 
peaks that have invaded their realm, while the moving sun floods it with real 
life and warmth. 

That which is beheld in silence, who shall describe ? Below is the kingly 
monument meeting the heavens and declaring with them the glory of God. In 
every direction spurs of the Rocky Mountains bewilder the eye till remoteness 
swallows them up. Pike's Peak is a neighbor ; Lincoln's and Long's seem 
near. The smoke of a score of towns is seen. Every park in the State may be 
located. Rivers are traced from source to mouth. Eastward are the plains — 
a waterless ocean — each town a fleet, each house a sail, each grove an island. 
A dozen peaks over 14,000 feet high are seen. The Holy Cross, like a sacred 
seal, glints in the sunlight miles and miles away. The L^ intah Mountains, in 
Utah, are faint but distinct , and so are the Spanish Peaks, which keep watch 
at the line between Colorado and Nev/ Mexico. To see the sun rise here is a 
tourist's triumph. To do this, Graymont must be left at one o'clock a. m. 
Scaling the path by moonlight, fording noisy and dimly-seen streams, or plung- 
ing into the darkness of the pines, is a novel experience. Gradually the stars 
fr.de out, and Gray's Peak, the grim, granite monarch, shines with a borrowed 
lustre, giving back faintly the glow of coming morning. A thousand mountains 
turn rosy before Aurora's approach, and then burst into a radiance of responsive 
greeting as she asserts full sway. The valley below is covered up in darkness, 
for the light that quenched the stars has not yet fallen upon it. The land- 
. scape, at first but a vast expanse without shape or limit, resolves itself into an 
army of mountains, gathered in stupendous array about the Dome of the 
Continent. 

Imagine a view such as the flying bird has — seen with human vision — which 
comprehends the true and the beautiful, whether found in the realm of nature 
or of art. Imagine the heavens divinely painted ; the earth striving to give 




:40) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 41 

back its color ; the concourse of peaks meeting the clouds, and the valleys 
stretching between developing upon the sight, such as the image thrown by a 
monster stereopticon, as the morning light comes over the heights upon this 
scene. 

Gray's Peak is Colorado's finest attraction. It is the highest point accessible 
by horse, and commands the most unapproachable view. 

PLATTE CANON. 

Twenty miles from Denver, on the South Park Branch, is Platte Caiion, 
and through this sinuous rift in the mountains rushes the Platte River, dancing 
out of its shadowy channel into the full light of the valley. The road, which 
is the short line to Leadville and the Gunnison country, enters the caiion where 
the river leaves it. The general aspect is much like that of Clear Creek Caiion, 
and it is a friendly rival. It is the same in being a rocky chasm, its bed a rush- 
ing stream, but different in its wild contour. To reach Platte Canon, the trai'ns 
pass through the western suburbs of Denver, skirting the wooded banks of the 
Platte, and twenty miles out, just where the river dances into the sunlight, 
enter the gloomy caiion between lofty and forbidding walls, which continue 
for fifty miles, receding, at tmes, to make room for picturesque little 
hamlets like Buffalo, Pine Grove, Slaghts, Grant, Kenosha, Como, and Garos. 
At all of these places, tourists can be accommodated, and trout and game abound. 

In fact, the ride over Kenosha Hill down into and through the South Park, 
is a constant reminder of the Alps, so much so that this trip is a part of the 
"Alpine Tours " advertised by the Union Pacific. 

At times, the train seems about to dash against the face of the cliff ; but, 
following the heavy steel rails, it turns suddenly and passes by in safety. The 
way through the caiion is a series of graceful curves, close to the overhanging 
rocks, often crossing the turbulent Platte River. In places, the tops of the 
canon almost seem to touch and exclude the sun. The caiion is a geological 
study ; the different formations, and the terrific force which has combined them, 
tell their own stories. 

Dome Rock is like the top of a buried mosque, and is as regular in shape as 
if fashioned by tne hand of man, except that one side is partly broken away. 
Cathedral Spires are in sight for miles, despite the winding of the caiion, and 
keep reappearing long after they are passed. 

This caiion affords fine opportunities for camping out. There is shade in 
plenty, trout, game, and bathing, and good board to be had at neighboring 
houses. But the best way is to live in a tent, and hire a servant to do the cook- 
ing. This is especially commended to the invalid tourist. There are fifty miles 
of this varying panorama, and after the train climbs Kenosha Hill, South Park 
is seen stretching away, one vast and level picture, as different from the canon 
as night is from day. 




DOME ROCK, IN PLATTE CANON, COLORADO — on the Union Pacitic System. 



(42) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 43 

BOULDER CANON. 

Boulder Caiion is reached from Denver via the Colorado Central Branch of 
the Union Pacific to Boulder. From Boulder, a narrow-gauge road has been 
built into Boulder Caiion by the Union Pacific. This caflon can favorably 
compare with Clear Creek and Platte Cafions, yet it does not equal them in 
length, massiveness, nor height. In one place, a perfect image of Minnehaha 
comes dashing down from amid evergreen sides, and this spot has long been a 
rendezvous for picnic excursions. 

The road, on leaving the town of Boulder, passes through a beautiful grove, 
and continues on by Baldwin, Four-Mile Eanon, and Gold Hill, until it reaches 
Penn's Gulch, now known as Sunset. Just before arriving at Sunset, an 
upward glance reveals the high range of mountains, but passing that, the ascent 
is much like that of Kenosha Hill in the South Park, affording, if possible, a 
much finer view. It's a glorious mount of the range, with sweeping, rock- 
bound curves, each one bringing the visitor nearer the summit. The valley, 
with its wavering hills, is receding. The end of the curve is seven and a half 
miles from Sunset. In that distance there is a marvelous rise of many feet. 
The end of this grade, after all its meanderings, is visible from Sunset. Sunset 
is an acquisition to the excursionist ; Boulder was good before, but with the 
new adjunct, is doubly so. The altitude of Sunset is 7,696 feet. The view 
around Sunset is glorious. On every hand the mountains are glistening with 
snow. Peak rises above peak with majesty unspeakable ; yet, wearying of 
these, the eye may turn and be rested by the vastness of the plains and the 
intervening hills. 

Boulder is forty- seven miles from Denver on the broad-gauge Colorado 
Central Branch of the Union Pacific, although the cut-off via Argo and C. C- 
junctions make it only twenty-nine miles. It can also be reached from Denver 
via Golden or via Brighton. Its altitude is 5,335 feet, and it has a population 
of over 4,000. It has good hotels, and is a fine summering place. Boulder is 
the county seat of Boulder County, and a key to the caiion of the same name. 
It is situated just at the junction of the foothills with the plains, thus enjoying 
the cool breezes from the mountains, while on the other hand stretch away 
green and fertile acres for cattle and crops. Underneath these acres are vast 
deposits of coal and precious metals, which combine to make Boulder an im- 
portant mining centre. Within a few miles of the town are many pretty lakes 
dotted with water-fowl. The Seltzer Springs, of Springdale, are ten miles 
northwest. The waters from these springs are steadily growing in popularity, 
and are among the best mineral waters in Colorado ; along Jim Creek is the 
attractive little glen in which they are found, amidst a dense forest of pines, 
through which runs a fine carriage road. Stages run daily from Boulder to this 
point, where there are good hotels and excellent accommodations. 



44 WESTERN RESORTS 

POINTS ABOUT THE COLORADO PARKS. 

To fully understand the Colorado parks they must be seen. No description 
can do them justice, and neither the skill of a Bierstadt or Moran could picture 
their pure atmosphere — so like a breath from paradise — nor reproduce theii 
beauteous colors and forms. In the city, a park is a huge square, with trees in 
checker-board primness, where the lakes have fish as tame as chickens; the ani- 
mals are in cages, and are neither attractive nor natural. But how different 
a mountain park ! The range kindly parts to give it room, and shields it in its 
great arms. There are grassy hills and dales where feed the noblest game, and 
trees which shelter birds of plumage and song. The lakes — some of them 
miles in length — are rippled by the coming and going of ducks and geese. 
The streams bear along, eager for the bait of the angler, their speckled loads 
of trout, most delicious as they brown over the evening's coals. There are no 
precise graveled walks, and no elaborate fountains, but the footfall is lost on 
the turf, and springs gush forth with sparkling tune to gladden the thirsty with 
a liquid such as never ran through the rusty pipes of a city. The altitude gives 
coolness without chill, and warmth without oppressive heat. 

ESTES PARK. 

Estes Park is easily reached from Denver, via Loveland, on the Colorado 
Central Branch of the Union Pacific, and a stage line which runs daily, except 
Sunday, from Loveland to the park. 

Estes Park is pronounced the most beautiful of Colorado parks. It lies 
about sixty miles from Denver, at the foot of Long's Peak. The park is ten 
miles square, and its elevation is 8,000 feet above the sea-level. It is a wild 
and incomparable spot. Dinner is taken at Rattlesnake Park about noon, after 
a drive over one of the most beautiful and picturesque of inountain roads. The 
park is reached about five o'clock in the afternoon. The stage-ride itself, with 
its beautiful views, is alone worth the trip. At one point on the line over 
thirty-five lakes on the plains and among the foothills are in view from the 
coach. 

From the top of Bald Mountain and Pole Hill views can be had of the val- 
leys of the Cache La Poudre, Big Thompson, and St. Vrain. The view of Estes 
Park and Snowy Range from Park Hill, just before descending i-nto the park, 
is one of the grandest scenes in the Rocky Mountains. There are plenty of 
accommodations of every kind, and prices are reasonable. There are beautiful 
glades and odorous pines, numerous lakes, and game and trout in plenty. 

NORTH PARK. 

North Park is reached from Denver, via the Colorado Central Branch of the 
Union Pacific to Fort Collins, a thrifty and attractive little town seventy-seven 
miles from Denver, and by stage from Fort Collins to the park. North Park 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 45 

can also be reached by stage from Laramie, Wyoming, on the main line of the 
Union Pacific. The road from Fort Collins to the park goes through the world- 
famous Cache La Poudre region, where the hunting and fishing cannot be ex- 
celled. North Park is Colorado's best hunting field. It is rugged in places, 
and vast. Its dimensions are seventy-five by fifty miles, with an elevation of 
9,000 feet above the sea-level. The jagged spires of the Rockies, clothed with 
perpetual snow, look down upon the park from an elevation of some 14,000 
feet. There are mineral springs, in stony basins, bubbling up icy cool from an 
unknown depth. In autumn the larger game comes down to join the grouse, 
quail, squirrel, and rabbit. A summer in North Park can be very pleasantly 
spent. 

MIDDLE PARK. 

Middle Park is best reached from Denver, via the Colorado Central Branch 
of the Union Pacific Railway, through Georgetown or Sunset, and by stage 
from either place to the park. The road from Georgetown, however, is the best 
and most generally preferred. It is a notable ride by rail and stage. 

Middle Park is like North Park, only larger, with more and larger hills and 
wider dales and streams of grander sweep. The elevation is about 8,000 feet. 

From Georgetown to Hot Sulphur Springs is forty-six miles, just a day's 
journey. This is the scenic centre of the park. Never had nymphs of the 
wood a bathing place more charming. The water is hot or cold, clear or sul- 
phur charged. Lave in the waters, and the aches and pains which flesh is heir 
to rapidly disappear. The slopes of the Grand, Fraser, Blue, and Trouble- 
some Mountains abound in feathered and other game. Elk in particular are 
plenty. 

SOUTH PARK. 

South Park is best reached from Denver, via the South Park Branch of the 
LTnion Pacific to Kenosha, seventy-six miles from Denver, or to Como, eighty- 
eight miles from Denver. Both of these places are in the park, and there are 
stage lines to different points of interest. The park is about fifty miles in 
length and from ten to twenty miles in width, and its elevation is about 10,000 
feet above the level of the sea. South Park is in itself a magnificent domain. 
It is not so rugged as the other parks, being more of a level plateau. It is 
bordered on the east by a heavily-timbered range some 2,000 feet above the 
park, while to the west the Snowy Range extends as far as the eye can reach. 
In this range, in plain view, are a number of the highest peaks in Colorado. 
One of the most noted mountains is the Mount of the Holy Cross, which can 
be seen from Robinson Station, a few miles from Leadville. This is one of 
Colorado's wonders. The elevation of this mountain is 14,176 feet above the 
sea-level. 




(46) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 47 

Quoting from Mr. Ernest Ingersoll : " It is the Mount of the Holy Cross, 
bearing the sacred symbol in such heroic characters as dwarf all human grav- 
ing, and set on the pinnacle of the world as though in sign of possession for- 
ever. The Jesuits went hand in hand with the Chevalier Dubois proclaiming 
Christian Gospel in the Northern forests ; the Puritan brought his Testament 
to New England ; the Spanish banners of victory on the golden shores of the 
Pacific were upheld by the fiery zeal of the friars of San Francisco ; the frozen 
Alaskan cliffs resounded to the chanting of the monks of St. Peter and St. 
Paul. On every side the virgin continent was taken in the name of Christ* 
and with all the eclat of religious conquest. Yet from ages unnumbered be- 
fore any of them, centuries oblivious in the mystery of past time, the cross had 
been planted here. As a prophecy during unmeasured»generations, as a sign 
of glorious fulfillment during nineteen centuries, from always and to eternity a 
reminder of our fealty to heaven, this divine seal has been set upon our proud- 
est eminence." 

This wonderful park can be seen from the line of the South Park Branch of 
the Union Pacific for a distance of nearly forty miles. The road just skirts 
the park, so that the view extends clear over it. South Park is soft in color- 
ing, magnificent in its sweep of distance, clothed in summer's velvet, trimmed 
with the ermine of never-melting snow, shaded by promontory, and flecked 
by countless herds of cattle. It is one of nature's masterpieces, and to those 
who love the quiet of beauty rather than its ruggedness, nothing will be found 
more impressive. 

MOUNT PRINCETON HOT SPRINGS, COLORADO, 

On the South Park Division of the Union Pacific System, a perfect park of 
over i,ooo acres, nestled in a beautiful valley at the foot of one of the noblest 
mountains in the Continental Range; the crescent surrounding the valley com- 
pleted by a range of hills densely clothed with pinion pines, and, opening out 
toward the east, the broad Arkansas Valley; a rushing mountain torrent flow- 
ing for three miles through the grounds; Mount Antero and Mount Shavano 
looking down from their lofty thrones 14,000 feet above the world — this is a 
bird's-eye view of Mount Princeton Hot Springs. 

The springs, over forty in number, are in the heart of this valley; their flow 
is over 1,000,000 gallons daily, the mean temperature being about 130'^ Fahr. 
These waters have been found very efficacious in cases of rheumatism, dys- 
pepsia, catarrh, and the like, and, in some instances, paralysis has been cured. 
The altitude at the springs is about 8,000 feet; the winters are very mild, 
snow very rarely falling in the valley, owing to the protection afforded by the 
vast range on the west. 

The accommodations offered at Mount Princeton Hot Springs are very 
superior in every particular. The new eighty-room hotel has just been com- 




(48) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 49 

pleted, and will be open for visitors during the season of 1890. The liouse 
is one of the finest in Southern Colorado, artistic in design and construction, 
and possessing every modern improvement, as well as those comforts which are 
so welcome to tourists; for the average traveler will be surprised to find at a 
mountain resort a hotel like this, so thoroughly and even luxuriously appointed. 
It is lighted with electricity, heated by hot water, and equipped with hot 
baths, electric bells, etc., etc.; a fine bath-house, containing plunge, vapor, and 
shower baths, supplied from the hot mineral springs: a swimming-pool, 100x300 
feet; a splendid lake, with an area of about fifty acres, maintained for the en- 
tertainment of guests, in the way of boating and fishing, and, lastly, the observa- 
tory on the summit of Mount Princeton, six miles distant, and reached by an 
easy carriage-road. Mount Princeton is 14,192 feet above sea-level, and one 
of the loftiest peaks in the Continental Range. Nature has been lavish here 
in fitting this spot for a health and pleasure resort, and the time is not far dis- 
tant when these hot springs will be sought by thousands of visitors, as well for 
their beautiful environments 'as the healing quality of the waters. 

ALPINE TUNNEL. 

Alpine Tunnel is on the line of the South Park Branch of the Union Pacific 
between St. Elmo and Gunnison. Leaving St. Elmo for Gunnison, the little 
town of Hancock is passed, and then a long, slanting tangent leads to a lofty 
hole in the mountain. On a little farther, and a plunge is taken into the black- 
ness of the Alpine Tunnel, shooting through the rocks at a height of 11,596 
feet. Snow lies in perpetual banks on either side, but flowers bright and fra- 
grant fill the frosty air with their perfume, and light it with their colors. Some- 
where along the way the seasons clasp hands; for though it be summer in the 
valley, it is not summer here — only that these flowery tokens sweetly defy the 
nipping chill. Except in the South American Andes, this tunnel is the highest 
railroad point ever attained. The tourist enters from the Atlantic slope, and 
emerges upon the Pacific. The point of change is in the center, and the im- 
petus tells the moment it is crossed. The engine, just before goaded to its 
work, has now to be held in severe check by the engineer. Two drops of water, 
such as continually fall from the roof, are hanging but 'lalf an inch apart. 
Trembling in the cold and blackness, they loosen their tiny hold and patter 
down. They were neighbors; but, after hesitating a second, each starts with 
its fellows, and when they finally reach the ocean there is a span of a continent 
between them. The actual length of the tunnel, aside from its approaches, is 
1,773 f^^t. The 70,000 linear feet of California redwood lining was brought up 
on pack-horses over trails which had known the touch of no hoof save that of 
the mountain sheep, and where man himself had scarce dared to venture. Op- 
erations were carried on from both ends, and despite the curvature, when the 
respective gangs first caught the flash of the other's lamps, they were less than 



50 WESTERN RESORTS. 

one inch out of the line the engineer had mapped out for them. The great 
expanse was only warranted by the greatness of the country, which is now fast- 
ened to the outer world by this link of darkness. After passing the tunnel on 
the way to Gunnison, the Palisades, Quartz Valley, San Juan, Uncompaghre, 
Hair Pin Curve, and Juniata Hot Springs, are objects of interest which the 
tourist should see. 

BRECKENRIDGE, 

A town of some 2,000 population, with an elevation of 9,524 feet, is on the 
South Park Branch of the Union Pacific, on the road to Leadville. It is a 
mining town of considerable importance, and a day may be spent here to good 
advantage. An object of interest to the tourist will be found in the museum 
of Prof. E. Carter. The professor's collection consists of carefully preserved 
specimens of beasts and birds found in Colorado only. Many of the species 
in this exhibit are now extinct. 

LEADVILLE. 

Leadville is best reached from Denver over the South Park Branch of 
the Union Pacific, and from there the distance is 151 miles. The altitude of 
Leadville is 10,185 ^^^^ above the level of the sea. The climate in winter is 
much milder than that of the Middle or Eastern States. The population is 
over 20,000. Leadville is one of the largest mining camps in the world, and, 
within a decade, has grown from a mere cluster of miners' cabins to a cosmo- 
politan city possessing all the conveniences of an older place, with gas, electric 
lights, fine business blocks, elegant private residences, churches, banks, thea- 
tres, and good hotels. In fact, Leadville is one of the wonders of the nine- 
teenth century. A visit to Colorado without a sight of Leadville is incom- 
plete, as there is much to inspect in the noted mines and smelters, aside 
from the charming scenery. Evergreen Lakes are readily reached by a stage 
drive of six miles over a good road, and Twin Lakes are also accessible. 

GUNNISON. 

Gunnison is a busy little city of 3,000 souls. Its coal supplies are inexhausti- 
ble, while gold and silver underlie its hills. As the site for immense steel 
works, its future is assured. Already it boasts of gas and water works, and 
such a hotel as would be first-class in any city. Gunnison is a good rendez- 
vous for hunting and fishing parties. 

Note. — For further information, see "Sights and Scenes in Colorado," 
issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing mi- 
nute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in Colorado. 



FOR HEALTH AND J'LEASLRE. 



51 



The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates, during the 
summer season, a series of excursion tickets called " Alpine Tours," covering 
the principal points throughout "The Switzerland of America," using Denver 
as a central point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limits of the 
tickets. The tickets will be good for thirty days from date of sale, and will be 
sold only to holders of first-class excursion tickets over the Union Pacific. 

The following grand tours are afforded : First Alpine Tour, comprises the 
South Park Branch of the Union Pacific Railway, through the wonders of 
Platte Canon, over Kenosha Hill, through South Park, via Como, to Alpine 
Tunnel, and the glorious scenery of "The American Alps," as far south as 
Fort Worth. From Gunnison, the return trip is made to Como, and from Come 
to the magic city of Leadville, and from Leadville, via Como, back to Denver. 

Second Alpine Tour : From Denver up Clear Creek Canon, via Golden and 
Forks Creek, to Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Silver Plume, Graymont and 
Gray's Peak. Returning from Graymont to Idaho Springs a detour of six 
miles is made to Central City by stage, and from there by rail down a branch 
of Clear Creek Canon to Forks Creek, and thence back to Denver. 

Third Alpine Tour : From Denver to Boulder and Sunset, returning by 
way of Ft. Collins and Greeley to Denver. 

The tours embrace in their extent the grandest scenery in Colorado, whether 
of mountain height, picturesqi e ciuon or beautiful valley. The points named 
are easy of access, and the train service of the Union Pacific unsurpassed for 
punctuality and comfort. 



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FROM THE ALPS TO THE SEA. 




Y the recent acquisition of the Denver, Texas & Forth Worth 
!>" Railway, the Union Pacific system controls an imperial domain 
extending from the mountain heights of Colorado to the Gulf 
of Mexico, and its patrons have the choice of any altitude, and 
all possible conditions of climate and atmosphere. Almost 
every phase of American scenery, every sharp contrast from the 
heart of the Rockies to the "Palms of the South," can be seen 
on the many divisions of this great road, the Union Pacific, the 
inal overland route. 
Taking Denver to be the local point, which indeed it is and always 
will be for the State of Colorado, the first place of importance on this 
new division is 

COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO, 

seventy-three miles south. The ride from Denver to Colorado Springs is one 
of the most charming in Colorado. While moving through a beautiful valley, 
which gives evidence of fine cultivation, there are on either side magnificent 
views of peculiarly majestic scenery. We are almost under the shadows of the 
very " Prince of the Range," and in the presence of the most impressive pano- 
rama in the Rocky Mountains; to the far south the Spanish Peaks and the 
lesser brotherhood of snow-crowned summits loom and fade and fade and loom 
through the tranquil summer air like the baseless fabric of a dream. The 
mountain wall close at hand, the vivid green in the near foreground and the 
distant vision of ever-lengthening, receding sentinel peaks seems like a view 
from an enchanted valley. 

Colorado Springs is essentially a home resort. There are more people who 
have summer homes here than in any of the other frequented places in Colo- 
rado. There are good hotels in abundance and any number of attractive 
boarding-houses; but such is the beauty and salubrity of the place that visitors 
who arrive here make up their minds to stay for the entire season, and, as a 
result, they gather about them the essentials of home life and home comfort. 

(53) 



54 WESTERN RESORTS 

There are no factories of any sort in Colorado Springs — nothing to take away 
from its quiet, secluded beauty. The streets are broader than is usual in most 
cities, and lined with shade-trees. The town has about 10,000 people, is well 
lighted and paved, and possesses all the modern equipments for luxury and 
comfort in living. 

A few miles distant from Colorado Springs, and connected by two lines of 
railway and street cars, is world-famous 

MANITOU, COLORADO. 

Everyone has heard of it, hundreds of thousands have been there, and thousands 
more each succeeeding summer wend their way to this queen of mountain 
resorts. For Manitou possesses a charm which lingers — a magic spell which 
comes unbidden to haunt the traveler who has once rested under her witching 
glamour. 

In the first place, then, just a few practical details before we enter upon the 
poetry of the place and the glory of her environment. Manitou lies in a cup- 
like glen, surrounded by mountains, and has for an impressive background, 
high above the surrounding summits, the lonely majesty of Pike's Peak. Its 
regular inhabitants number perhaps 1,500 or 2,000; there are two electric-light 
plants in full working order and three miles of streets lighted by the arc light; 
a beautiful avenue eighty feet wide runs through the village. On either side 
of this avenue, on the mountain-side, may be seen numberless mansions, villas 
and cottages. These residences are peculiarly elegant in design and construc- 
tion. In the very center of the town are the springs, inclosed within pleasure 
grounds, si)arkling and bubbling from their hidden reservoirs. Hotels there are 
in profusion; boarding-houses, cottages, almost any kind of a retreat, sanctuary 
or home that a traveler may desire. 

The environment of Manitou is really remarkable for its extent and variety. 
There is a surfeit of walks, rides and drives: The ascent to the summit of Pike's 
Peak, (ilen Eyrie, Queen's Canon, Devil's Punch Bowl, Cheyenne Canon, and 
Seven I'\dls; Petrified Trees, Monument Park with the Mammoth Anvil, Dutch 
Wedding, Vulcan Workshop and Dunce's Paliament; Ruxton's Glen, Iron 
Spring and I'te Pass — all these and more. And yet there remains the one 
spot, the Erectheum of the place, 

THE GARDEN OF THE GODS. 

Perhaps no American writer of recent times has pictured Colorado scenery 
so lovingly, so truthfully and with such finished skill as Ernest IngersoU. He 
owns (]uite frankly that an accurate description of this "ruinous perfection " 
is almost hopeless. In the "Crest of the Continent" he says: " There is the 
"Garden of the (iods, hidden behind those garish walls of red and yellow sand- 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 55 

"Stone, so stark and out of place in the soberly-toned landscape that they 
"travesty Nature, convertuig the whole picture into a theatrical scene, and a 
"highly spectacular one at that. 

" Passing behind the sensational walls, one is not surprised to find a sort of 
"gigantic peep-show in pantomine. The solid rocks have gone masquerad- , 
" ing in every sort of absurd costume and character. The colors of the mak- 
" up, too, are varied from black through all the browns and drabs to pure white, 
" and then again through yellows and buffs and pinks up to staring red. Who 
" can portray adequately these odd forms of chiseled stone ? I have read a dozen 
"descriptions, and so have you, no doubt. But one I have just seen in a letter 
"by a Boston lady is so pertinent, that you shall have the pleasure of reading 
"it. ' The impression is of something mighty, unreal, and supernatural. Of 
" ' the Gods, surely, but the Gods of the Norse Walhalla in some of their strange 
" * outbursts of wild rage or uncouth playfulness. The beauty-loving divinities 
" 'of Greece and Rome could have nothing in common with such sublime awk- 
"* wardness. Jove's ambrosial curls must shake in another Olympia than this. 
"'Weird and grotesque, but solemn and awful at the same time, as if one stood 
" 'on the confines of another world and soon the veil would be rent which 
" ' divided them.* Words are worse than useless to attempt such a picture. Per- 
"haps, if one could live in the shadow of its savage grandeur for months until 
" his soul was premeated, language would begin to find itself flowing in proper 
" channels, but in the first stupor of astonishment one must only hold his breath. 
"The garden itself, the holy of holies, as most fancy, is not so overpowering 
"to me as the vast outlying wildness. 

" To pass in between massive portals of rock, of brilliant terra-cotta red, 
and enter on a plain, miles in extent, covered in all directions with magnifi- 
"cent isolated masses of the same striking color, each lifting itself against the 
"wonderful blue of a Colorado sky with a sharpness of outline that would 
"shame the fine cutting of an etching; to find the ground under your feet over 
"the whole immense surface, carpeted with the same rich tint, underlying 
"arabesques of green and gray, where grass and mosses have crept; to come 
"upon masses of pale, velvety gypsum, set now and again as if to make more 
"effective by contrast the deep red which strikes the dominant chord of the 
"picture; and always, as you look through or above, to catch the stormy bil- 
"lows of the giant mountain range, tossed against the sky, with the regal, snow 
"crowned massiveness of Pike's Peak rising over all, is something, once seen, 
" never to be forgotten. Strange, grotesque shapes, mammoth caricatures of 
"animals, clamber, crouch, or spring from vantage points hundreds of feet in 
"air. Here a battlemented wall is pierced by a round window; there a cluster 
"of slender spires lift themselves; beyond, a leaning tower slants through the 
"blue air, or a cube as large as a dwelling-house is balanced on a pivot-like 
"point at the base, as if a child's strength could upset it. Imagine all this, 



56 WKSTERN RESORTS 

" scintillant with color, set under a dazzling sapphire dome, with the silver stems 
"and delicate frondage of young cottonwoods in one space, or a strong young 
"hemlock lifting green symmetrical arms from some high rocky cliff in another. 
"This can be told; but the massiveness of sky-piled masonry, the almost 
•" infernal mixture of grandeur and grotesqueness, are beyond expression. After 
" the first few moments of wild exclamation one sinks into an awed silence. The 
"reader must see for himself these grotesque monuments, these relics of ruined 
"strata, these sportive, wind-cut ghosts of tiie old regime, these fanciful images 
" of things seen and unseen, which stand thickly over hundreds of acres like the 
"mouldering ruins of some half-buried city of the desert, if he would fully 
" understand." 

Going southward from Colorado Springs, a series of grand perspectives 
attract and charm the tourist. Nature here is in her most majestic mood; there 
is little of tenderness or delicate carving; these ghastly rents and seams are 
tragic, and the grandeur of these mountain gorges is terrible and awesome, 
rather than beautiful. Some of these lonely spots remind one of Dore's appall- 
ing pictures of the "Inferno." 

The next town of prominence is 

PUEBLO, COLORADO, 

a city born to greatness, for it possesses untold advantages. In the first place, 
Pueblo has a lower altitude than any city or farming community in the State, 
being 4,660 feet above sea-level. Surrounding it is an immense tract of country 
susceptible of raising all kinds of fruits, cereals, and vegetables. There are 
thousands of acres of rich land within a short distance of the city, which are 
now utilized by the stock-raisers. The city stands on the site of an old Mexi- 
can village, and is situated on both sides of the Arkansas River. It has a 
population of about 30,000. The city presents a metropolitan appearance. 
Handsome brick and stone business blocks, and public buildings, and elegant 
residences are to be seen on every side. There are eighteen churches in Pueblo, 
eight schools, six banks, and eighteen hotels. The Methodist College, and the 
State Insane Asylum are located here. 

But it is as a manufacturing center that Pueblo is destined to become 
famous. Here are located the great Bessemer-steel works, and some of the 
largest ore stamping, smelting and refining works in the State; in addition, 
there are railway car and machine shops, foundries, and flour-mills. The 
reasons for a lively faith in the future prosperity of Pueblo are easily shown: 
The town is close at hand to vast mineral fields which are easily worked; it 
hds excellent railroad facilities; living is cheap, and constant employment can 
be given to thousands of men. The steel works and refineries will, in the near 
future, be supplemented by other like industries. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 57 

The climate here is mild and pleasant in the winter; it is warm during the 
daytime in summer, but always cool at night. There is a splendid mineral 
spring on the east side of the city, charged with iron, carbonate of lime, white 
sulphur, magnesia, and potassium; the water is also strongly magnetic. These 
springs are especially recommended for rheumatism, kidney complaints, and 
similar diseases. There is a good hotel at the springs; boarding-houses and 
numerous cottages at reasonable rental. This charming resort is known as 
"Clark's Magnetic Mineral Spring." 

TRINIDAD, COLORADO, 

is 215 miles from Denver, and the largest city in extreme Southern Colorado. 
It has a population of over 10,000, and an altitude of 6,250 feet above sea-level. 
Scientific experts tell us that Trinidad is situated in the center of the richest 
coal-belt in the world; it is the supply depot for all the coke used in adjacent 
territory. Iron is found in immense quantities in the immediate vicinity; gyp- 
sum, granite, alum, and fine building stone are also close at hand. Thus sur- 
rounded by mineral wealth, unlimited and inexhaustible, Trinidad's destiny as 
a great manufacturing point is a foregone conclusion. Among the more impor- 
tant industries now in operation may be mentioned the manufacture of min- 
eral paint, lime, plaster-of-paris, and fire-brick. Between 3,000 and 4,000 men 
now find employment in and around the city. The town has water-works, gas 
and electric-light, street-cars, and all metropolitan improvements. 

It is not generally known that Trinidad is the center of the wool trade in 
Colorado, the annual shipment amounting to upwards of 3,500,000 pounds. It 
has always been, and is now, a great cattle center, and is at present the largest 
hide receiving point in the State. While Trinidad is rich within herself in 
natural resources, she is also the undisputed trade and money center for an 
immense territory, which includes Southern Colorado, Northern New Mexico, 
and a large portion of Northern Texas. The climate here is delightful, free 
from malaria and fevers, and all the diseases incident to lower altitudes. 

TO THE GULF. 

From Trinidad south, the road traverses the limitless, undulating, great 
staked plains of Texas, first, however, running through i\ remnant of Colorado 
and across a corner of New Mexico. This splendid country must be seen to 
be appreciated. In productive fertility it is unsurpassed, while the climate 
admits of farming in seasons when the Northern States are under winter snow. 
Here is a land where wheat, cotton and fruits are a sure crop, and easily raised. 
The average elevation of this great table-land is something over 4,000 feet 
above sea-level. Malaria and fevers are unknown. Over 60,000 actual /^t'wdiyf^^ 
settlers came into this section in 1889, and the yearly ratio of immigration is 



58 



WESTERN RESORTS 



fully as large. Both Iowa and Illinois have sent a large contingent to North- 
ern Texas, and more are on the way. The reason alleged for this exodus is 
simply to escape the long winters, and the accompanying discomforts of farm- 
ing, in the higher latitudes, and the desire to secure a home where agriculture 
may be pursued under genial climatic influences. Farming in Northern Texas 
is attended with none of the hardships known to dwellers in the frosty North. 

FORT WORTH, TEXAS, 

the terminus of this division of the Union Pacific System, is a bright, energetic 
town of 35,000 inhabitants, handsomely built, and possessing all the conven- 
iences and luxuries of modern city life. Here the traveler may plan tours in a 
dozen different directions, for Fort Worth is one of the greatest railway centers 
in the South. He stands at the very portal of the Southern semi-tropical realm 
of magnolia groves and palms and flowers; the warm breath of the Gulf in- 
vites him; the subtle perfume of summer draws him to become a partaker in 
the splendor of light and color, on earth and sea and sky, in the serene empire 
of the sunny South. 




WYOMING POINTS. 




'YOMING was organized as a Territory under an Act of 
Congress passed July 25, 1868, and derives its name from 
the historical Wyoming Valley of Pennsylvania, the scene 
of a barbarous massacre just after the American Revolu- 
lution of 1776. It was admitted to the Union as a State 
July 10, 1890. The first actual settlements made were 
the trading posts of Forts Laramie and Bridger. The 
"^^^^ State has an area of 98,000 square miles; it is 365 miles 

in length and 275 miles wide. Its mineral resources are very extensive ; stone, 
soda, and iron ore are abundant, and copper, lead, plumbago, and petroleum 
are also found within its borders, as well as coal of fine quality in many places. 
This State is as yet but sparsely settled, but in natural resources it is behind 
no section in America. The tourist who passes through it must not base his 
judgment on the view from the car window. Remember that Yellowstone 
National Park itself is in Wyoming. There are soda lakes near Laramie and 
Rawlins, immense Hot Springs near Camp Ground, and Warm Springs near 
Fort Steele. For the hunter it is an ideal hunting ground, containing all man- 
ner of game, from cotton-tails to grizzly bears. 



CHEYENNE. 



Cheyenne, 6,050 feet in altitude, with a population of about 10,000, is one 
of the sprightliest and most prosperous cities in the entire West. It is well and 
compactly builc, and for many years has been the centre of the cattle industry 
of the Northwest. Cheyenne has been a wild town, but is now a well regulated 
city with many fine stores and handsome residences. It constituted for a long 
time the outpost of civilization, becoming embodied in the legends of border 
life, and is a place of rare historical interest. Five miles from the city is Fort 
Russell, one of the largest military posts in the West. 

Cheyenne possesses all the modern improvements — gas, electric light, street- 
car service, and most of the luxuries of city life. This is the junction point of 
the two main stems of the L^nion Pacific — the Nebraska Main Line, 516 miles 

(59) 




GARDINER RIVER HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK — reached via Union Pacific System. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 61 

from Omaha, and the Kansas Main Line, 746 miles from Kansas City. This 
section is capable of producing great crops of corn and wheat, and, with the 
influx of the farming element, better results may be looked for. In the imme- 
•diate vicinity of Cheyenne fire-clay is found in great abundance, and fine flint- 
:sand is plentiful a few miles north. Two industries are thus secured in the 
matter of material — the manufacturing of pottery and glass. From Cheyenne 
a branch of the Union Pacific runs north through a magnificient agricultural 
•country to Douglas, Wyoming, 167 miles distant. 

SHERMAN, 

A small station just west of Cheyenne, at an elevation of 8,247 feet, is the 
loftiest point in the transcontinental ride. From Sherman can be seen Long's 
Peak, nearly 200 miles away. Near the station is the Ames' Monument, a pyra- 
midal granite structure sixty-five feet in height, with a base sixty feet square, 
which was erected by the Union Pacific Railway to the memory of the Ames 
Brothers, to whom the completion of the Union Pacific was largely due. Hip- 
popotamus Rock is one of the sights of the vicinity. The scenery is wild and 
rugged. Just beyond Sherman is Dale Creek bridge, one of the most remarkable 
sights of the overland trip. The structure is of iron, and stretches from bluff 
to bluffwith a 650-foot span. The train passes over it just 127 feet above the 
creek, which looks like a mere rivulet below. Pike's Peak can be seen away 
off to the south, not less than 165 miles distant. The Red Buttes, an object of 
interest to the tourist, lie just beyond. 

LARAMIE. 

Laramie, often called the "Gem City of the Rockies," has and elevation of 
7,149 feet above sea-level, and a population of about 6,000. It is one of the 
principal towns on the main line of the Union Pacific between Council Bluffs 
and Ogden. It is situated on Big Laramie River, fifty-seven miles northwest 
•of Cheyenne, and is an important market for wool. Its schools are good, and 
the University of Wyoming and the United States Penitentiary are located 
here. Just southeast of the town is located the State fish hatchery, at Soldier 
Springs. This has a capacity of hatching half a million trout at a time, and 
with these the streams and Lakes of Wyoming are being rapidly stocked 
■with the finest food-fish in the world. From Laramie there is a stage line, 
•during the summer months, to North Park, Colorado. 

GREEN RIVER. 

There are many objects of interest in and around Green River, among 
which are the peculiar clay buttes by which it is surrounded. The coal mines 




CLIFF IN GRAND CANON, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK — reached via the Union Pacific System. 



(62) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 03 

of Rock Springs and Carbon, a few miles east of Green River, are well worth 
a visit from the tourist. The quality of the coal is excellent, and is used by 
the Union Pacific on its engines. It is at this point that the trains are made up 
for Portland, Oregon, although they do not leave the main line until Granger 
is reached, a few mdes farther west. 

EVANSTON. 

Evanston, 382 miles west of Laramie, is another prosperous town, with a 
population of about 3.000 people, and an elevation of 6,759 feet above the sea 
level. There is in this locality much to interest the hunter, the tourist, and the 
scientist. It is not far to the resorts of large game. The formation of the 
country is a peculiar one, it being broken, distorted, and worn into the most 
fantastic shapes. There are strong indications of precious metals, and a great 
wealth of coal and building materials. Near Evanston are a series of cool 
mineral springs that gush forth from a stratum of limestone with an abundant 
flow. Evanston is also a military post, 

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 

The park occupies the northwestern corner of Wyoming, extending slightly 
into Idaho and Montana. It is readily reached from Pocatello, by the Utah & 
Northern Branch of the Union Pacific, via Beaver Cafion, Idaho, and thence 
by stage to Fire Hole Basin in the Park. From various points along the line 
near Beaver Caiion can be seen the Three Tetons, distant some hundred miles, 
•overlooking the southwestern boundary of the Yellowstone Park, keeping, as it 
were, silent guard from their lofty heights over the national gift. 

There is, in the summer, a regular line of stages from Beaver Canon to Fire 
Hole Basin in the park. The distance is about ninety miles and the drive a 
most exhilarating and delightful experience. Starting from Beaver Caiion in 
the morning a spin of about twenty miles brings the traveler to Camas Mead- 
ows. These are level stretches inclosed by mountains and covered with brown 
grass. To the southeast the Three Tetons stand out majestically, their sharp 
peaks white with snow, and their sides deep blue. Snake River Crossing is 
reached at sunset. Resuming the journey in the morning, for the first few 
miles the road leads through the woods, and then enters a great circular basin, 
which is ten miles long, by as many wide, and at its upper end is Henry's Lake, 
a bright blue body of water, filled with fish. Out of the basin the road 
toils up the steep slopes of Tyghee Pass, onto the ''Continental Divide," and 
from the summit the tourist beholds a lovely panorama. To the east one looks 
into the Madison Valley; to the west the wagon-road can be traced over which 
the traveler has come. The ashes and maples on the mountain side are glow- 
ing in gold and crimson, the grass darkly brown, and the lake below a luminous 




(64) 



f 

FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 65. 

blue. From the pass downward the road plunges into a dense forest, which 
hides the outlines of the valley. Manly's Cabin is reached at noon. From here 
the route is across the Madison River and down the valley, keeping the river in 
sight for the most part of the way. Half way across is the western boundary 
line of the park, and a small military camp has been established here. The 
main duty consists in protecting the game within the park. There is a high, 
narrow ridge of land dividing the western portion of the park from Lower Geyser 
Basin, and from the top of this divide the vast area of the park is discerned. Fire 
Hole Basin is reached in the evening, and the tourist safely landed in the very 
heart of this marvelous region — that grand national gift to the people for their 
amusement and instruction — a lordly domain for themselves and their children. 

When Yellowstone National Park was set aside to be forever the grand tour- 
ist resort of the people, and their common property, few had an idea of the 
endless variety and stupendous grandeur of the features embraced in this tract 
of country, fifty-five by sixty-five miles. The park embraces an area of 3,000 
square miles, has an average elevation of about 8,000 feet above sea-level, and 
is encircled by magnificent mountain ranges. 

From Fire Hole Basin there are seen pillars of clouds showing where the 
springs and geysers are. Geyser Meadows are two miles away. Here are 
several geysers which throw their torrents twenty-five feet or higher. Dome 
Spring is at the top of a calcareous deposit of livid colors, and some of its 
neighbors are similarly situated. "Queen Laundry'^ is a clear spring, whose 
waters will almost instantly cleanse even the dirtiest saddle-blanket, and which 
finally drop into a basin at delightful bathing temperature. Fairy Creek Falls, 
jump 250 feet over an adjacent cliff. With these spouting, leaping novelties all 
about, Midway Geyser Basin is reached, five miles from Fire Hole Basin. Here 
are the grandest hot springs in the world. The overflow of hot water comes 
from the Great Spring, the equal of which no human eye ever saw. This aper- 
ture is 250 feet across, and is walled in by sides thirty feet high. The surface 
is in constant turmoil, and the rising steam scalds the incautious. A glance into 
the gulf causes a shudder. Only a few yards away there is a cold fount twenty- 
five feet in diameter, filling an elaborately chased basin of unknown depth. 
Near by are the Chalk Vats, bubbling and spurting their mushy compound, and 
throwing out splashes of it which vary from a snowy white to a bright pink. 

Upper Geyser Basin, eight miles from Fire Hole Basin, is the seat of the ten 
largest geysers ever discovered, beside which those of Iceland are trifling. 
There is a charming grove within a stone's-throw of castle geyser, which begins 
to give vent to its pent up force in muttered thunder, and then its flood shoots 
over the cone, first a spirt, then a stream; then, with a shaking of the earth and 
the roar of a tempest, a river bounds upward like a rocket, submerging broad 
acres with the descent of its boiling flood. Half a mile away, "Old Faithful" 
spouts every fifty-seven minutes, throwing a stream several feet in diameter to 




APPROACH TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK — reached via the Union Pacific Syst 
1. Ford of the Snake River. 2. Spearing Trout, Snake River. 

3. Hunter's Cabin, Henry Lake. 



(66) 




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FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 67 

a height of 200 feet. Across the river is the "Bee Hive," whose fountain flies 
200 feet in the air, forming a crystal arch beautiful in the sunlight. "The 
Giantess" has a crater eighteen by fifteen feet in diameter, belching forth such 
a volume as doubles the amount of water in Fire Hole River, here twenty feet 
in width and a foot deep. There is a thrill, a groan, a tremor, dense volumes 
of steam, a rolling and clashing of unseen waves, and a deafening boom as an 
immense body of water is hurled up toward the sky, its extreme jet reaching 
250 feet above the earth. 

Next is Gibbon Falls, where, in a wildwood tangle, they drop 80 feet ; then 
Gibbon Canon, with its sides 2,000 feet high, from which the tourist emerges 
into Elk Park. In the defile is heard a boom, boom, boom, that never ceases, 
and from an orifice in the rock comes steam in regular puffs and similar in 
sound to the exhaust of a powerful engine. Monument Geyser and the famous 
Paint Pots, with their various and vivid hues, are near by. Norris Geyser Basin 
is the next in order. It is the oldest basin in the park, the hottest and most 
dangerous for pedestrians. To the right is Mammoth Geyser; when at rest a 
peep may be had into its gaping throat, and its blood-chilling gurgle can be 
distinctly heard. 

Yellowstone Lake is twenty-five miles from Fire Hole Basin. The altitude 
of this lake is 7,788 feet. It is thirty miles long and ten to fifteen wide, with 
numerous islands. 

The Natural Bridge of Rock spans Bridge Creek at a height of forty feet 
and affords carriage room. Down the river twelve miles is Devil's Den ; east 
of this is Mud Volcano. Brimstone Mountain is three miles below. Here pure 
sulphur can be shoveled up by the wagon-load. 

The Upper Falls of the Yellowstone are reached by an easy trail. Here the 
rapids narrow to less than 100 feet, and the overhanging rocks press so closely 
together that a bridge could be easily thrown across. The water eddies and 
cascades, and then flies downward 397 feet, while the grandest canon of the 
world stretches away 1,500 feet below. The mind cannot grasp Grand Canon ; 
words, cannot paint it ; it glows with a life of its own, and with colors of its 
own, or born of the sun and the spray. Tower Falls and Canon are twenty 
miles from this charming spot. Specimen Mountain is forty miles from 
Fire Hole Basin. It is covered with agate, once wood, stone snakes and 
fishes, with crystals and petrified roots, while the view from the summit is 
sublime. 

And this is Yellowstone National Park. Words cannot convey a proper 
realization of its grandeur and magnificence. Nowhere else in America are 
there such superb views as the park affords ; nowhere else such an abundance 
of finny game ; nowhere else such myriads of wild fowl ; nowhere else such a 
delightful camping place or more perfect weather. 




THE GEYSERS, nE ; A-' >'.■£ NATIONAL PARK — reached uh 'le Union Pacific Systen 



(68) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



69 



This route, with Fire Hole Basin as a centre, brings the tourist near the 
leading attractions. 

From Fire Hole Basin — The Falls of the Madison are six miles ; Foot of 
Madison Canon, eighteen miles ; Falls and Caiion of the Gibbon, ten miles ; 
Monument Geyser, eighteen miles ; Midway Geyser Basin, or " Hell's Half 
Acre," three miles ; Upper Geyser Basin, eight miles ; Yellowstone Lake, 
twenty-five miles; Yellowstone Falls and Caiion, thirty-two miles. 

Remember this route, via the Union Pacific from either Council Bluffs or 
Kansas City, via Cheyenne, Green River, Granger, and Pocatello, to Beaver 
Canon, and thence via stage to Fire Hole Basin. 




'V ' 




(70) 




IDAHO POINTS. 



PA HO is an Indian word, meaning "Gem of the Mountains." The 
Territory is imperial in extent, its area of 83,000 square miles being 
greater than that of New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, and New 
Hampshire combined. It is 410 miles long, and its extreme width in 
the south is 257 miles. The white population prior to 1850 comprised 
mostly trappers and missionaries, its actual settlement beginning only 
in i860 with the discovery of gold. It was organized as a Territory March 3, 
1863, and admitted to the Union as a State July 3, 1890. The mineral fields 
of Idaho are among the largest in the world, and nestling among its mountain 
ranges are countless valleys, affording a vast area of fertile agricultural and 
grazing lands. 

POCATELLO. 

This town is on the Portland Main Line of the Union Pacific, at the 
junction with the Utah and Northern Branch, 153 miles from Ogden, Utah, 
and 244 miles from Green River. Its elevation is 4,466 feet above sea-level. 
The Utah &: Northern Branch stretches off north to Beaver Caiion (where 
stage connection from the Yellowstone National Park is made), Butte, Garrison, 
and Helena, and to Ogden, Salt Lake City, and Garfield Beach, on the shores 
of Great Salt Lake. Pocatello is a lively little town of some 2,000 people, and 
growing rapidly. Here the division headquarters and machine shops of the 
railway are located. The climate is cool and bracing. The country is 
broken and rugged, but there are pleasant, fertile valleys, and the Fort 
Hall Indian Reservation, in which Pocatello is situated, is a beautiful stretch of 
country. 

The American Falls are located on the Snake River, which is crossed by the 
Union Pacific at American Falls Station. 

The Union Pacific Railway crosses the Snake River on a bridge more than 
six hundred feet in length, and carried directly over the American Falls, so 
that the traveler can look full upon the rushing waters, as, white with foam, 
they roar upon the rocks and disappear beneath the arches of the bridge. 

(71) 



72 WESTERN RESORTS 

These falls are described by Irving in his " Bonneville." The banks of the 
river, for a considerable distance both above and below the falls, have a 
volcanic character ; masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon another ; the 
water makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling through narrow 
channels or pitching in beautiful cascades over ridges of basaltic columns. 
Captain Bonneville in his route missed the stupendous falls, now called the 
Great Shoshone, but these excited his admiration, and were it not for the mar- 
vels of that greater neighbor, these would still be the feature of all the country 
round. Looking northward, the Three Buttes of Lost River are seen lifted 
above the level expanse, and, somewhat to the westward, the steep, jagged out- 
lines of the lofty Saw Tooth Range. Below the falls the banks are steep, but 
with an occasional alcove of grassy meadow, a growth of cedars covering the 
tops, not large, but very venerable in years and appearance. Trout fishing is 
remarkably good both up and down the stream. Just below the bridge on the 
west side, a large spring gushes forth, and after forming a broad, shallow pool, 
winds off into the river. When the river waters are high, the up-coming trout 
find their way into this pool, which is, therefore, a splendid place to cast the 

fly. 

From Shoshone Station, on the mam line of the Union Pacific, there is a 
branch running to Bellevue, Hailey, and Ketchum, the principal towns of the 
famous Wood River Region. It will pay the tourist to make a digression from 
the through line to Portland, in order to visit this section, which possesses one 
of the richest silver mines in the world, and is as yet but little explored. It has 
a fine climate and plenty of game. 

Shoshone Station has a population of 2,000, and fair accommodations for 
the traveler. From this point Great Shoshone Falls are reached by a pleasant 
stage ride of twenty-five miles. It must be remembered that these falls are the 
wonder of the North American Continent. 

HAILEY. 

Hailey is situated just where Quigley and Croy Gulches unite with the Wood 
River Valley, the junction affording a fine view in four directions, embracing 
well-cultivated ranches, and ending with the foothills. The climate is mild and 
even, and the roads stretching away on all sides are perfect. The mines at 
Hailey possess much of interest to the tourist, and a good hotel furnishes accom- 
modations. 

One and a half miles from Hailey are the famous Hailey Hot Springs. Here 
will be found an elegant hotel, strictly first-class in every particular, and fitted 
with all modern appliances and conveniences. The ride or walk thither is very 
pleasant, leading through a picturesque little valley, and the location, in a lovely 
glen, in sight of several rich mines, is very pleasing. Large volumes of water, of 



lOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 73 

a temperature of iso"" and containing sulphate of soda, iron, magnesia, sulphur, 
and other desirable ingredients, are found in scores of springs. Commodious 
swimming-baths are provided. Many patients have gone to these with chronic 
cases, believed to be h(5peless, of neuralgia, paralysis, dyspepsia, inflammatory 
or mercurial rheumatism, and other complaints for which the Arkansas springs 
are considered a specific, and after a few months of bathing and drinking have 
left completely restored. The baths are also very popular with those in good 
health, thousands visiting them annually for the delightfully exhilarating effects 
of a plunge. 

The largest hospital of Alturas County is near. A two-mile drive from 
Hailey takes the tourist to the beautiful valley of Croy Gulch, with an altitude 
of about 5,300 feet. The Bolton Hot Springs, five miles from Hailey, are also 
very efficacious in relieving and curing rheumatism. Bellevue, five miles south 
of Hailey, is a pretty little town. 

KETCHUM. 

Ketchum, a rapidly growing town of about 2,000 to 3,000 people, lies thir- 
teen miles north of Hailey, and is beautifully situated at the head of the Wood 
River Valley. At this point, Wood River is as clear as crystal, and rich in the 
finest of mountain trout. The vicinity surrounding affords good hunting, and, 
elk and bear abound. The mines round about Ketchum are large, and will well 
repay inspection. The Guyer Hot Springs, two miles by stage from Ketchum, 
are noted for their medicinal waters, and are of high repute throughout the 
neighboring country. There are many objects of interest, both for the tourist 
and pleasure seeker, in and about Ketchum. The scenery is beautiful, and the 
climate all that could be desired. 

BOISE CITY. 

From Shoshone station, passing westward, the next town of importance is 
Boise City, which is now reached from Nampa on the Union Pacific, via the 
Idaho Central. Boise City is nineteen miles from Nampa and has an elevation 
of 2,885 f^^t- It has a population of about 6,000, has good hotel accommoda- 
tions, and is a point of interest to the tourist. Boise City is the largest, 
wealthiest and most attractive town in the territory, with good schools and 
pleasant homes. It is in the centre of the Idaho fruit belt. A great many medi- 
cinal springs are to be found within the immediate neighborhood of Boise City, 
easy of access, and possessing many charms both of water and scenery. 

GUYER HOT SPRINGS. 

This romantic little mountain resort is situated about two miles from the town 
of Ketchum, Idaho, on the Wood River Branch of the Union Pacific, seventy 



74 WESTERN RESORTS 

miles from Shoshone. Regular hacks run to and fro from the springs, in con- 
nection with the branch trains. The springs are comparatively unknown out- 
side of Idaho, but are destined to become famous for the well-known medicinal 
qualities of the waters and the great natural beauty of the place. The springs, 
about fifteen in number, gush out from the mountain side intensely hot, and 
are conveyed a short distance by pipe to the bath-house, where there are two 
large plunge baths, and quite a number of single rooms with tubs. The 
waters are good for all nervous complaints, rheumatism, skin and blood affec- 
tions. This place is much resorted to by tourists and invalids. It is a beautiful, 
quiet mountain retreat. The accommodations for guests are first-class, and in 
addition to the hotel, there are bath-houses, bowling-alleys, croquet and tennis 
grounds, swings, band-stands, and dancing-platforms — everything, in short, to 
make a visit pleasant. 

SODA SPRIN(;S. 

The Soda Springs are located on the main line of the Union Pacific, and are 
within a stone's throw of the railway station bearing the same name. They are 
in Bingham County, Idaho, sixty-eight miles east of Pocatello, in the depres- 
sion of the Wasatch Mountains. Their altitude is 5,780 feet above sea-level, 
with snowy mountains perpetually in sight. Ages ago the Indians sought these 
springs because they discovered that the waters were a sovereign remedy for 
many of their ills, and that something about the air and the water gave them 
at least in part, what Ponce de Leon dreamed of finding, a fountain of water 
which had within it the elements to insure to those who drank the boon of 
eternal youth. So through the centuries the Indians held their treasure, until 
civilization claimed them for her own. 

The waters of these springs are charged with bicarbonate of soda, bicar- 
bonate of potash, chloride of sodium and potash, sulphate of magnesia, bicar- 
bonate of magnesia, lime alumina, silica, carbonate of iron, free carbonic acid 
gas, and a multitude of other ingredients. They are a specific for the cure of 
all manner of indigestion, kidney troubles, even up to advanced symptoms of 
Bright's disease, and diabetes, dropsy, and a thousand kindred ills. 

Of the tens of millions of people who inhabit the United States east of the 
Rocky Mountains, probably not one in a thousand has ever heard of Soda 
Springs, Idaho. Probably not one in ten thousand has any idea of their rare 
medicinal properties, and not one in a hundred thousand reajizes that in com- 
parison with them all the famous spas of the Old World sink into insignificance. 
They take away all appetite for spirituous liquors, and the water is the most 
pleasant for table use that has ever been found. 

Fremont's account of the excellence of these springs will be found in his 
official reports. In 1850, Mormon explorers traversing the country reported 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 75 

the marvels of the springs, and later on, the chiefs of the Mormon Church 
visited the place, and Brigham Young solemnly blessed them. 

But, despite the virtues of the water, backed by the blessing of Brigham 
Young, Soda Springs remained an out-of-the-way place, little frequented and 
little known, until the Union Pacific was built from Green River and Granger 
to Portland, Oregon, which line runs directly by the springs, where now Pullman 
palace cars land passengers from all portions of the country. These springs 
are within fifty hours' ride of Council Bluffs or Kansas City. One of the chief 
inducements which decided the company to build the line was to open these 
springs to the public. Last year the Soda"" Springs Company was organized 
and began bottling the water, which, by a new process, retains all its pleasant 
and medicinal properties; and this water is now on sale throughout the east 
and west. 

The climate of the springs is as wonderful as the water. The topography 
of the country is interesting; the springs cover a large area, and those who 
desire to, can spend the summer there, camping out. The water, the air and 
the sky are free, and their virtues, like those of the Master, go out to all who 
are able to touch so much as the hem of their robes. The days in the summer 
are warm, while the nights are invariably cool enough for blankets. The sur- 
rounding country abounds in fine hunting, while the Blackfoot Creek, ten miles 
away, reached by a natural road, supplies the best trout fishing in the West. 
These springs are readily reached from the east and west by the Union 
Pacific, and from the north and south by the Utah & Northern branch of the 
Union Pacifio, and they will soon be recognized as one of the most wonderful 
sanitariums in the world. Good accommodations can be had at the Idenha 
Hotel, which is managed by the Pacific Hotel Company. Tourists and 
health and pleasure seekers will be amply repaid by a visit to these wonderful 
springs. 

THE GREAT SHOSHONE FALLS OF THE SNAKE RIVER. 

These falls are readily reached by a stage ride of twenty-five miles from 
Shoshone Station, on the Union Pacific. The tourist takes this ride in a stage, 
or by private conveyance. The road is good and across a desert that is no 
pretense. No streams or springs gladden its barren surface, broken only by 
grassless knolls and blocks of lava, over which the horses fairly fly, the down- 
ward impulse of one hill carrying them up the next. The question is often 
asked, where all of the lava over which the stage rolls comes from, as there 
are no volcanic mountains for hundreds of miles. The whole area was 
once a simmering mass, that being submerged, resulted in many curious 
fractures, into some of which an article dropped will go clinking from side to 
side until the noise dies away, apparently without bottom being reached. It is 




bREAI bHOSHONE FALLS, IDAHO — .eached -la the Union Pacific Systen 



(76-) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 77 

in such a crevice that the Lost River disappears never to be seen again. The 
Snake River is indicated by no sign, when all at once from the edge of a vast 
chasm, smooth between stupendous walls, it is seen flowing hundreds of feet 
below. What power has wrought this sculpture ? It does not seem possible 
that water, even in untold ages, could work into the lava and granite, leaving 
the pillared heights to testify to its work. The roar of the falls is heard, and, 
picking its way down the slope, the four-in-hand pauses within earshot of the 
solemn music, and the baptism of the spray. Having arrived in the evening, it 
is well to rest in a luxurious bed and await the revelation of sunlight. It comes 
like a gleam of intelligence, passing over the mighty cafion. The walls, rising 
hundreds of feet, catch the glint before it reaches the bottom of the gorge and 
the river, and from height to height the beams of the morning flash signals. 
There are no mountains by which to judge altitude, but a drop out of the world 
seems to be taken. The overwhelming massiveness of the gorge baffles all 
eye-measure of the stupendous rift, out of which a climb would be impossible. The 
close-pressing lava towers are as sombre as a prison-house. After breakfast a 
boat is found in the little willow-fringed bayou and launched upon the open 
river — which here broadens to a lake — but silent, stern, and powerful the cur- 
rent sweeps along. That cloud of steam ahead rises from Shoshone Falls, and 
that ceaseless clamor is the great voice of its waters. There is an easy trail 
upon landing, which leads through a border of fir, and a rest is taken upon 
Point Lookout. Just then the sun breaks forth in renewed radiance, and 
from cliff to cliff there springs a bow as perfect as was ever made glorious 
in the heavens — an arc of beauteous coloring against a background of glit- 
tering, beadlike foam tumbling in crystal chaos 220 feet, the circling halo 
losing its bases in the turmoil and the mist, with an unbroken crescent 
above. The rock foothold quivers, a gentle bath dews the uncovered head, 
while the spirit soars as lofty as the illumined spray. There is a spell like 
that of a nameless melody in the awfulness of the irresistible plunge. 
Niagara is different, but not superior. Where Niagara is calm, Shoshone is 
tempestuous ; where Niagara pours over evenly, Shoshone bursts into a mill- 
ion wild jets, each with a diamond's lustre ; where Niagara is environed by 
common-place landscapes, Shoshone dashes from between rocks nearly a 
thousand feet high, stately and time-stained, and its surroundings are weird 
and supernatural. Seven distinct channels are to be seen forming a number 
of brilliant falls, before the final grand reunion of the waters, and so united, 
over they go, to be lost in the swirl of a terrible surge, to riot in an infuriate 
whirlpool, and to rise soft as the feather of a bird and be touched by the sun to 
splendor. 

Locomotive Cave is one of the wonders of the place. It is reached after 
leaving the vaulted dome and by climbing along the face of the wall near the 
water. Stepping inside, one hears a sound similar to the exhaust of a monster 




(78) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 79 

locomotive. The waves of sound are quick and powerful, and the sensation is 
as if one were standing by the side of a large locomotive whose wheels were 
slipping on the rails. 

Only a stone's throw from the shore, Eagle Rock has never been touched by 
man, but on the topmost crest an eagle hovers with wrathful mien over her 
young. Standing face toward the falls, on the extreme left is Pulpit Rock ; 
next, Prospect Point. Cedar, Walgamotts, and Bells are a chain of islands 
across, the divided flow of the Snake coming between them. Prospect Point 
and Pulpit Rock overlook Bridal Veil, one of the brightest of the smaller falls. 
The former is immediately in front of the site selected for the large hotel. 
Lover's Leap affords one of the finest views. Facing it are the lesser falls and 
the unbroken front of the great one — 950 feet from shore to shore — unbroken 
because no rocks mar its contour, and yet broken, for it is not a glassy sheet of 
water that makes the leap ending in glistening foaming spray. Looking aghast 
you cling to the withered pine marking the spot where the lovers fell 750 feet 
in front of the maddened, malignant torrent, devilish in the delight it takes in 
sweeping with a rush which nothing but the eternal rocks could withstand, torn 
and tossed into billions of sparkling threads with a constant play of prismatic 
hues changing quicker than thought, half enveloped in its own mist, and then 
the wind carrying that aw^^y, leaving it unobscured, in sublimity unmatched 
and indescribable. A long, winding trail leads past the Natural Bridge and 
the Devil's Flues, the last apertures reaching down to the level of the stream 
below the falls. Their origin is a mystery. The trail is half hidden in 
luxuriant shrubbery, the shallow soil being constantly drenched with spray. It 
is no place for the lame, halt, or blind. Each eye must be open, each hand and 
foot alert for a hold. The scramble is for 850 feet. From below, there is such 
a change from the point of inspection, that the treat is entirely new. Here 
the opposite wall, black and frowning, is over a thousand feet sheer. A 
thousand feet means more in such a place than two thousand among the 
mountains. The vaulted dome is near by. It is made by the throwing to- 
gether of huge rocks. It is a conical chamber 175 feet in height, and with 
an atmosphere cooling as a draught from the fountain. From the top there 
is a steady sprinkle of water — a shower-bath which, falling year after year, 
has worn a hollow, known as Diana's Bath. Surely a goddess could covet 
no place more charming. The water fills this to overflowing. It is nearly 
ice cold. Drink, it freely. It is nectar. The sides of the chamber are wet, 
and green with moss. High out of reach are brilliant festoons of flowers 
growing from the rock. It is an ideal place to lunch, and in itself a won- 
der. 

It is now time to go back, re-cross the river, or row up to Twin Falls. The 
two sets of falls are three miles apart. A portion of the way a boat may be 
used and a trail completes the journey. There is some good, honest perspira- 




(80) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 81 

tion attendant upon the row to Clark's Point, beyond the Devil's Corral. The 
latter is an inclosure with only one entrance. Clark's Point is a huge fortress 
jutting into the stream. It is a curious place to be, in that long defile, and it 
is not designed for a thoroughfare. The ride seems short, but the walk does 
not. An acute ear detects a suppressed roar coming jointly from above and 
below. The waves of sound from Great Shoshone and from the Upper Falls 
meet and mingle somewhere in the gorge. Finally the falls are reached, and 
standing above them is recompense enough for all the toil. The view along 
the caiion in itself is worth a journey of miles. There is a frightful snakiness 
about the river, an appalling strength as it enters the rapids, and a glorying in 
this strength as it leaps below. The stream is divided by a tower of solid 
rock into two channels, across which an easy toss would carry a stone. All that 
mass of water, which three miles farther is so magnificent with its frontage of 
950 feet, is here condensed into these narrow spaces, descending through them 
180 feet, so that even these falls, secondary though they be to Great Shoshone 
Falls, are higher than the far-famed Niagara. A constant vapor arises from 
them, and when the air is still, bedews the rocks far higher than the upper 
level. Yet, for all its great height, it is the superior height of the rocks 
which makes the greatest impression. At the crest of the walls there is no 
grade to correspond with the sinking of the river, so that the chasm gets 
deeper and deeper, until, beyond the Great Shoshone Falls, it is stupen- 
dous. 

The float down the river is something to be always remembered. To sit and 
calmly glide, to dip in the cool stream and drink, to watch the serried columns 
of lava pass in review, and listen to the song of the eddies, is a pleasure. 
Night is coming on, and the shadows begin to stretch darkly across. The 
gloom makes the rocks look more weird and supernatural, and the motion and 
the twilight belong to the realm of the mystic. The canon is a wonderful 
whispering gallery. A whistle awakes a thousand echoes, and to a shout, each 
castle perched above gives back a loud response. The notes of a cornet are 
taken up and repeated fainter and more faint till they die away in melody. 
And so challenging the rocks to reply to a tune, and every challenge being ac- 
cepted and hurled back with treble force, the notes are again repeated far away, 
long after the air is finished. 

After supper a walk is taken to Prospect Point, and, as if in greeting, just 
then the mist changes from its billowy white to a rainbow mass, which the lunar 
rays make softly brilliant, and which seem to fade away in farewell as the moon 
is lost under shifting clouds. 

No one can inspect this place thoroughly in a day. The day is simply a 
hint. The Great Shoshone Falls demand a d iv the Upper Falls another, and 
the canon still another. 



82 



WESTERN RESORTS 



As yet the surroundings of the falls are as wild and untouched as when the 
pilgrims for Astoria, wandering through the wilderness years ago, marveled at 
their great beauty. And such is the Great Shoshone Falls, one of the greatest 
points of interest in the world. 

Note. — For further imformation, see "Sights and Scenes in Idaho and 
Montana," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and con- 
taining minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in those 
Territories. 

The Union Pacific Railway will sell, at greatly reduced rates during the 
summer season, a series of excursion tickets called "Shoshone Tours," cover- 
ing the principal points in Idaho and Montana, using Pocatello and Shoshone, 
Idaho, as central points. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation 
of the tickets. Tickets will be good thirty days from date of sale. 

First Shoshone Tour: From Pocatello to Great Shoshone Falls and return 
to Shoshone Station; from Shoshone Station to Hailey and Guyer Hot Springs 
and return to Shoshone Station, and from Shoshone Station to Boise City and 
return to Pocatello. 

From Pocatello to Soda Springs and return. 
From Pocatello, via Beaver Cafion, to Yellowstone 



Second Shoshone Tour: 
Third Shoshone Tour: 
National Park and return. 
Fourth Shoshone Tour 



From Pocatello to Butte and Helena and return. 





MONTANA POINTS. 



ONTANA is an Indian word— " Tay-a-be-shock-up ^•— and 
means " Country of the Mountains." It is probable that 
the Sieur de la Verendrye and his brother were the first 
visitors to these rocky fastnesses in 1743-4. This region 
was included in the Louisiana purchase of 1803, and the 
famous Lewis and Clarke expedition explored the country 
in 1804-5. Gold was discovered in what is now Deer Lodge 
County in 1852, and again in 1856 and 1858, but it was not 
until July, 1862, that the Bannack mines were discovered. 
In 1S63 gold was found at Alder Gulch, 80 miles east of 
Bannack, and here Virginia City, the first Territorial capital, sprang into exist- 
ence. Alder Gulch has yielded over sixty million dollars of gold since discovery. 
Gold was found where the beautiful city of Helena now stands. Montana was 
formerly a part of Idaho, and was organized as a territory in 1864 ; she 
received 2,000 square miles from Dakota in 1870, and was admitted to the 
Union November 8, 1889. Her area is 146,000 square miles. The Territory 
extends from east to west about 550 miles, and 275 miles from north to south. 
Montana possesses an immense area of very rich agricultural land, and stands 
fifth in the production of gold and silver. 

Leaving Green River and Granger on the main line of the Union Pacific 
through Soda Springs and Pocatello, and thence from Pocatello north on the 
Utah & Northern branch, and passing the Three Tetons and Beaver Canon, 
where connection by stage lines is made for the Yellowstone National Park a 
few miles bring the tourist within the confines of Montana. Passing the water 
line, Red Rock Station is the first point of interest. Here the scenery is wild 
and there is a peculiar formation of points of jagged land, the highest of which 
is Red Rock, which juts up some 500 feet, and may be seen in either direction 
for twenty miles. Then through Dillon, which is in Beaver Head Valley, and 
one of the thriving towns of Montana, Silver Bow is reached. From Silver Bow 
the Montana Union Railroad, an auxiliary line of the Union Pacific, branches 
off, one spur running to Butte City, another through Stuart to Garrison, where 
connection is made for Helena, and still another from Stuart to Anaconda. 

(83) 



84 WESTERN RESORTS 

BUTTE CITY. 

Butte City, with an elevation of 5,482 feet above sea-level, is the largest 
mining camp in the world, not even excepting Leadville, Colorado. Standing 
next to the Lake Superior region in the production of copper, and first of all 
in silver output, attention has been drawn to it from all over the world. Butte 
has a population of some 30,000 people, is the possessor of fine hotels and all 
the modern conveniences of a large city. It is the greatest silver producer, not 
alone of Montana, but of the Rocky Mountain mineral belt. It is situated on 
a gentle slope and is surrounded by rugged and beautiful scenery, and takes its 
name from the point known as the Big Butte, located just north of the original 
town. It is ten miles to the main range of the Rockies, but towering foot-hills 
have formed the basin where Butte flourishes. From Butte City, points of inter- 
est in Silver Bow, Jefferson and Madison Counties can be readily reached. 
Butte is a, healthy place, blessed with a pure and bracing atmosphere, and 
presents many attractions to the tourist and health and pleasure seeker. 

ANACONDA. 

From Stuart, the Montana Union has a branch to Anaconda. Here is located 
the largest smelting works in the world, the consumption of coal alone for these 
works being 300 tons per day and the yield from copper ore is enormous. 
From Stuart, the pretty little town of Deer Lodge is but a short distance, and 
is a point of much interest. 

GARRISON. 

Further on is Garrison, a place of note, being the junction of the Montana 
Union Division of the Union Pacific with the Northern Pacific, and formerly 
the transfer point of passengers going to Portland. But since the opening of 
the Union Pacific, the route is via Huntington, which is the direct line to Port- 
land; the Garrison Route is used for Helena business. 

HELENA. 

Helena is the capital of Montana, with an elevation of 3,930 feet above the 
sea-level, and a population of about 20,000. Helena is also a mining camp, and 
is reached over the Union Pacific via Garrison or Butte. It is beautifully 
situated; Fort Benton to the north, Bozeman to the east, Virginia City to the 
south, with Butte City and Deer Lodge to the west. It has fine hotels, clubs, 
banks, newspapers, street cars — in fact everything that contributes to city life. 
There are many attractions for the tourist. Mt. Helena is to be climbed, and 
the view from its summit well repays the labor. There are pleasant drives, one 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



85 



of the most popular leading to Hot Springs, four miles away. Prickly Pear 
Canon presents attractive features. "The Gate of the Mountains," where the 
Missouri River bursts through, infinitely surpasses the Hudson Highlands, and 
for loo miles down-stream there is a succession of pillared hills, castles, eroded 
stone, caves, and of falls. East of Helena are the White Sulphur Springs, Hell 
Gate Canon, and the Devil's Watch Tower. Northwest is Flat Lake, ten by 
twenty-eight miles, and the Twin Cascades, Elizabeth and Alice, falling 2,000 
feet. 

Note. — For further information see '* Sights and Scenes in Idaho and Mon- 
tana," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and contain- 
ing minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in those Terri- 
tories. 





ONEONTA GORGE, COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON— on the Union Pacific Systen 



(86) 



OREGON POINTS. 




-flCv^'ki l/'^^il~l'^^ name Oregon is derived from a Spanish word which means 
^^^ R^^j I "wild thyme," and probably arose from the abundance of that 
herb which the early explorers found there. Oregon seems to 
have been first visited by a Spanish navigator in 1775; Captain 
Cook coasted down its shores in 17 78; but the Columbia River 
is believed to have been first made known to the civilized world 
by Captain Gray, of Boston, Mass., in 1791. He sighted the river 
late that year, and in May, 1792, he ventured up the stream a few 
miles and named it after his thip — the Columbia. From this time 
onward it was visited by fur-traders, both British and American, and 
the Lewis and Clarke exploring party spent the winter of 1805-6 at 
the mouth of the Columbia. The English and American fur-traders 
held joint possession of Oregon and fought unceasingly until the 
treaty of 1846 gave to the United States all the country below 40 degrees 
north. The Fur Company's post at Astoria was founded in 181 1. The tide of 
immigration finall}' set in during 1839. Oregon was organized as a Territory 
in 1848, and admitted to the Union as a State February 14, 1859. The State 
has an area of nearly 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 wide; 
it has 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land and 10,000,000 acres of 
forest. 

Oregon has nothing to lose b}- a close inspection of what she has to offer in 
the way of climate, productions, scenery, and pleasure resorts. Within its im- 
mense area of 96,000 square miles all that is desirable in the make-up of a great 
and prosperous State is to be found, and its wonderful resources augur well for 
its future. 

From Nampa, Idaho, the Union Pacific passes through the towns of Cald- 
well, Payette, Ontario, and Weiser, skirts along the boundary line of Idaho 
■and Oregon, following the Snake River, which it crosses and re-crosses, first in 
Idaho, then in Oregon, until Huntington, just within Oregon, is reached, where 
it starts directly across the State. Baker City, Union, and La Grande, import- 
ant towns beyond Huntington, are passed. Just beyond La Grande, in the 

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(88) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 89 

Grande Ronde Valley, comes a passage in the Blue Mountains, replete with the 
dark beauty of the pine and the rippling brook and waterfall. 

THE GRANDE RONDE VALLEY. 

The Grande Ronde Valley presents many points of interest to the tourist, 
and a sojourn here will amply repay the visitor. It is one of the most fertile 
valleys of the Pacific slope. The Grande Ronde River flows in from the Blue 
Mountains, and follows an extremely crooked channel through the valley, and 
here fish and game abound. Mountain streams and copious springs break 
forth on every hand, converting portions of the valley into a beautiful meadow. 

There are lovely vistas of scenery all along the line. The tourist will note 
the beautiful outline of the mountains around Baker City; the Swiss-like valley 
of Powder River; the clear and vital air of the Blue Mountains, a range which 
closely resembles the Alleghanies, and the exquisite views along Meacham 
Creek and the Umatilla River. 

Leaving La Grande, and passing over the summit at Meacham, on through 
the Umatilla Reservation, we reach Pendleton, one of the brightest, busiest 
cities in Eastern Oregon. Here a branch line of the Union Pacific system 
reaches toward the north to the far-famed 

PALOUSE COUNTRY AND SPOKANE FALLS. 

The great plains of the Columbia, stretching away to the northward from 
the river, are, according to competent authorities, the richest basaltic lands in 
the United States. The soil seems to possess simply marvelous properties; the 
crops grown exceed belief; the harvests are rainless; the climate subdued and 
tempered by the soft Chinook wind, well-nigh reaches perfection. 

The climate of this new empire of the Pacific Northwest is, as yet, but little 
understood by dwellers in the East. The winters in this region are very nearly 
the same temperature as those of the Southern Gulf States, while the summers 
are cool. This immunity from heat is accounted for by high latitude, and the 
fact that the prevailing wind, in midsummer, is from the north. The soft south 
wind, the "Chinook," is born of the great Japan current which breaks all along 
these shores, and this breath of summer is wafted inland all during the winter 
months. Both these currents of air partake of the nature of trade winds, and 
are constant and unfailing in their appointed time. So steadily do these 
winds blow that there are no excessively hot days in summer nor any bitter 
days of cold in the winter. 

The road runs through thriving towns — Walla Walla, Colfax, Farmington 
and Rockford, where a detour may be made to Coeur d'Alene Lake, one of the 
loveliest sheets of water on the continent — until it reaches its terminal at Spo- 
kane Falls, the young giant of the North. This prosperous city of nearly 




(90) 



FOR HKALTH AND PLEASURE. 91 

25,000 people was almost totally destroyed by the appalling fire of August, 
1889, but has been rebuilt stronger, better and more beautiful than before. 
Fine business blocks, palatial hotels, churches and theaters have risen as if by 
magic, and the city leaps forward again in her race, the stouter-hearted for her 
terrible affliction. 

Resuming the journey from Pendleton over the Cascade Range, the tourist 
reaches Celilo. A short distance above Celilo is " Hell Gate " whirlpool, so 
called from its resemblance to the famous New York Hell Gate. At Celilo is 
the commencement of " The Dalles" of the Columbia, a stretch of river reach- 
ing fourteen miles to Dalles Station. 

THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBL\. 

The Columbia is navigable for 275 miles above Celilo, and then the Snake 
River offers a clear course for 300 miles up as far as Lewiston. The fourteen 
miles from Celilo to Dalles Station are simply rapids. A little way above Dalles 
Station is the gorge which is so often termed "The Dalles." The chasm occu- 
pies about two and a half miles out of the fourteen comprised in the distance 
from ("elilo to Dalles Station. The river above is from 2,000 to 2,500 feet wide, 
and in flood time is often a mile in width, but for this two and a half miles the 
great volume of the stream is compressed into a narrow cleft about 130 feet 
across. During a "June rise" the water has risen here 126 feet — it is no un- 
common thing for it to mark sixty and seventy feet rise every year. 

The word "Dalles" is somewhat of a misnomer. It is a French word, 
"Dalle" signifying "flagstone," or "slab," or, as some translate it, "plates." 
The significance of the name is found in the oval or square-shaped stones, 
"flagstones," or "plates" of basaltic rock in the river and valley. In the fa^oi's 
of the French hunter.s, "Dalles" seems to have been 'applied always to a nar- 
row gorge or canon, and so the name has stood for this part of the Columbia 
River. 

So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea of 
the tourist is of a surging flood, of unknown depth rushing like a mountain 
torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather a placid stream 
with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to eight feet, then falling to 
twelve, fifteen and seventeen feet, and suddenly dropping to 100 feet of 
water and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-five to forty 
feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on the banks. The tide ebbs 
and flows at Portland from eighteen inches to three feet, according to season, 
and this tidal influence is felt, in high water, as far up as the Cascades. 

At " The Dalles " Station the tourist may leave the train and take the steamer 
down the Columbia for Portland. It is eighty-eight miles by rail to the city, and 
.about no miles by river. The day's run down this lordly stream is a never- 
to-be-forgotten experience. 




(82) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 93 

From '-The Dalles" Station the noble river, surging and whirling to the 
sea, breaking the image rocks into wave fragments, occupies the mind of the 
beholder. The Columbia is one of the world's great rivers, affording a water- 
way that is navigable for traffic for over 1,200 miles. Upon it, for 100 miles 
from its mouth, the largest ocean steamers ply with safety. It is Oregon's 
artery, throbbing with trade. Its largest tributary is the Willamette, draining 
the valley of the same name, and being naviagble for vessels of any size to Port- 
land, and for light river boats for over 150 miles further. There can be noth- 
ing more inspiring than the ride from " The Dalles " down the gorge of the 
Columbia through the Cascade Mountains, with the shining river on one side 
and the towering battlements of the shore on the other. The scene is one of 
continued magnificence. The grottoes, in which are moss-garlanded cascades 
almost hidden under the dense foliage, are most inviting and beautiful. 

Twelve miles from " The Dalles " we pass Memaloose Isle, the ancient burial 
place of the Chinook Indians. A tall, white shaft springs from the rocky bosom 
of the island, marking the last resting place of A-^ictor Trevet, one of Oregon's 
eccentric pioneers, and a firm friend of the Indians. In deference to his oft- 
repeated request during his lifetime, his remains were brought from San Fran- 
cisco, where he died, and placed among his red brethren on the " Isle of the 
Dead," as Memaloose signifies in the Chinook language. 

The gorge proper of the Cascade Mountains, through which the Columbia 
flows, is reached about twenty miles down from " The Dalles," the hills near 
that station being rather low, but for the next thirty miles the panorama is a 
perpetually shifting and shining splendor. The cascades are fifty miles from 
''The Dalles." The river-bed is filled with gigantic boulders and huge mis- 
shapen stones, and for six miles the mighty stream lashes itself into a fury over 
these obstructions. The Indian legend is to the effect that once there was a 
bridge across the river here, formed by nature, and that Mt. Hood and Mt. 
Adams quarreled and threw stones at one another, and that in this conflict of 
giants the bridge was destroyed. We leave the steamer at the upper Cascade 
and make the portage of six miles by narrow-gauge railway, re-embarking at 
the lower Cascade where the Portland boat is in waiting. This second section 
of the Upper Columbia is magnificent beyond description. Attention is called 
to the beautiful islands above the Cascades and to Wind Mountain, a bare peak 
which seems to have been stripped of every particle of grass, shrub or tree. 
There are scores of small falls lining the river: " Horse Tail " first we meet; then 
"Multnomah," the beautiful, a slender veil of spray falling 850 feet perpendic- 
ularly from the cliff above — a delicious bit of fairyland ; then "Bridal Veil" 
and "Oneonta," all clear and dashing, and banked by a wealth of moss. The 
lofty summits over which they pour are reproduced in the river, and made 
doubly impressive. For miles upon miles this wild scenery continues, and a 




(94) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 95 

thousand times the tourist thinks the chmax has been reached, only to acknowl- 
edge later that something grander has developed. 

Just below Oneonta Falls there is a beautiful glen. It is inaccessible even to 
the most venturesome climber, and nestles there securely under solemn crags ; 
but the charm is in the coloring — the air has a peculiar glowing blue tint, a 
misty web of beauty, caught, perhaps, from sky and river and reflected there. 
Ne.xt comes "Castle Rock," rising i,ooo feet sheer from the water's edge; 
'• Rooster- Rock," a bold and impressive pinnacle anchored amid stream; "Cape 
Horn," towering up 500 feet, and those twin shafts, massive and grand, the 
" Pillars of Hercules." 

Along the River Rhine, the Rhone or the Hudson, there is nothing that 
will compare with the stately palisades of the Columbia, with their cool recesses, 
kept sunless by the overhanging rocks, and watered by the melting snows of 
their own summits. From the mouth of the Willamette a splendid view can be 
had of Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helen's, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Ranier, where the 
scenery surpasses anything of its kind in the world. From Hood River Station 
above the Cascades the traveler will find good stages to convey him over an 
excellent road to the base of Mt. Hood, twenty-five miles distant. The view 
from Mt. Hood is simply incomparable, and the trip from Hood River Station 
to Mt. Hood is made through some of the most extraordinary scenery in the 
world. 

Mr. E. McD. Johnstone speaks of Mt. Hood as follows: " The view from the 
summit of Hood is one of unsurpassed grandeur, and probably includes in its 
range a greater number of high peaks and vast mountain chains, grand forests 
and mighty rivers than any other mountain in North America. Looking across 
the Columbia, the ghostly pyramids of Adams and St. Helen, with their con- 
necting ridges of eternal snow, first catch the eye ; then comes the silent, lofty 
Ranier, with the blue waters of Puget Sound and the rugged Olympia Mount- 
ains for a background ; and away to the extreme north (nearly to H. B. M.'s 
dominions), veiled in earth mists and scarcely discernible from the towering 
cumuli that inswathe it, lies Mt. Baker. Looking south over Oregon the view 
embraces the Three Sisters (all at one time), Jefferson, Diamond Peak, Scott, 
Pit, and, if it be a favorable day and you have a good glass, you may see 
Shasta, 250 miles away. The westward view is down over the lower coast range, 
the Umpqua, Calapooya, and Rogue River Mountains, with their sunny upland 
valleys, and away out over the restless ocean. In the opposite direction, across 
the illimitable plains of Eastern Oregon, to the Azure Blue Mountains ; down, 
almost to the foot of this mountain, 'rolls the Columbia,' through the narrow, 
rugged gorge of ' The Dalles,' 250 miles of its winding course being visible. 
The entire length of the great Willamette Valley, with its pleasant, prosperous 
towns and gently flowing river, its broad, fertile farms, like rich mosaics, with 
borders of dark-green woodlands, is spread out in great beauty under the. 




(96) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 07 

western slope of Mt. Hood." And next, Fort Vancouver, eighteen miles from 
Portland, is passed, a post well known in history, where Grant and Sheridan 
were once stationed. Six miles below the fort the Willamette swells the Colum- 
bia, and twelve miles up this lovely river brings us just at nightfall to the light 
and warmth and comfort of cheery Portland. 

PORTLAND. 

It was as far back as 1843 that the first settlers came to make a home 
here on the banks of the Willamette River, and the city of Portland was incor- 
porated in 185 I. It has steadily grown to metropolitan dimensions, and a pop- 
ulation of over 65,000 souls. It is twelve miles from Portland to the junction 
of the Willamette with the Columbia, and ninety-eight miles from the Pacific 
Ocean. The length of the city parallel with the river is about seven and one- 
half miles ; two-thirds of this frontage is occupied with wharves from one to 
three stories in height. The western boundary is formed by a chain of hills 
about one mile distant, with a gentle slope toward the river, thus assuring 
natural drainage. The view from any one of the hundred elevations west of 
the city is very beautiful. There are long rows of stately mansions that skirt 
the foothills, many of them costing over $100,000. The business portion 
comes next, extending to the water front, with its massive brick and stone 
blocks, towering church spires and handsome public buildings. There is 
added to this the spectacle of a great navigable river (over a half-mile in 
width), literally dotted with palatial steamboats, magnificent steamships, and 
large ocean-going vessels which are daily arriving and departing for all parts of 
the world. Directly across the river, one-half mile distant, and connected 
with Portland by two bridges and three ferry lines, is the flourishing city of 
East Portland. To the north of, and adjoining, the last named city is the 
growing town of A-lbina. The two cities are practically part of the city 
proper; so much so, in fact, that a movement is now under way to incorporate 
the three into one, thus swelling the actual population of Portland to at least 
65,000. 

PORTLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO. 

From Portland to San Francisco the trip can be made in the iron steamships 
of the L' nion Pacific, which favorably compare with the best ocean steamers on 
the Atlantic for safety, speed and comfort ; or by rail over the Mt. Shasta 
route of the Southern Pacific Company. After the long ride by rail, the ocean 
voyage makes a pleasing break, the murmur of the ocean breezes, and the 
rhythmic cadence of the waves as they kiss the sides of the noble ship, form a 
fitting finale to the overland trip across the continent. 




CRATER LAKE, OREGON — reached via the Union Pacific System. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 99 

PORTLAND TO ALASKA. 

To the tourist Alaska presents many points of interest. Its curious people, 
wonderful scenery, extinct volcanoes, magnificent glaciers, hot springs, sulphur 
laices, and boiling marshes will repay the tourist for making the trip. The ver- 
dure, flowers and birds of this Northland dispel the popular illusion of its frigid 
temperature. The trip to Alaska via steamer from Portland will be something 
to think of in after years. 

PORTLAND TO PUGET SOUND. 

The magnificent region of the Sound may be reached by the tourist either 
by rail, the distance being 150 miles to Tacoma, or by steamer from Portland 
to Victoria, B. C, there connecting with the Union Pacific Railway Company's 
elegant line of boats for Tacoma. This royal realm of beauty is beginning to 
be appreciated by travelers. The voyage from Portland on the calm Pacific, 
through the stately Straits of Fuca and glorious Puget Sound, is charming 
beyond description. There is complete immunity from that dread scourge 
sea-sickness ; the steamers are elegantly furnished and equipped, and the bold, 
impressive, yet harmonious scenery rimming these noble sheets of water is not 
equalled on the American continent. The points touched are Victoria ; then 
the bustling "city of destin}-," Port Townsend ; Seattle, the sturdy; and 
Tacoma, a beautiful city located on the upper arm of the Sound. After the 
Columbia, there is no trip to compare with this in the Northwest, so complete is 
the escape from dust and the stifling heat of mid-summer. 

THE LOWER COLUxMBL^. 

After the numerous attractions of handsome Portland have been thoroughly 
gojie over, the many drives and walks accomplished, the beautiful falls of the 
Willamette visited, twelve miles up the river at Oregon City, there remains a 
grand exctirsion for the tourist from Portland down the river to Astoria and 
Ihvaco — the mouth of the Columbia. The Union Pacific Railway Company's 
steamers on this route are not surpassed in speed, elegance or comfort of every 
description. A new floating palace, the T. J. Potter, has been added to the 
fleet, and in August, 18S8, this boat made the run from her dock in Portland to 
Astoria, a good, long ninety-eight miles, in five hours and thirty minutes. The 
scenery of the lower river is not so rugged, neither is it so sharply defined. 
The grand Columbia broadens out into a majestic stream moving slowly to its 
death in the Pacific, and there is something stately in its measured flow. Small 
hamlets, villages and towns dot the banks, mammoth salmon canneries on 
either hand. There is "Coffin Rock," a gruesome-looking affair, and "Saddle 
Mountain, with its lovely tints, Baker Bay, Clatsop Beach, and Astoria, known 
of all men for three-quarters of a century. Clatsop Beach is one of the most 




MULTNOMAH FALLS, COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON— on the Union Pacific System. 



(100) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 101 

charming resorts in all Oregon. Leaving the boat at Astoria, the tourist has a 
drive of sixteen miles through the beautiful lowland country back of the town. 
At the Beach will be found a first-class hotel affording every needed comfort 
and convenience. The bathing at Clatsop is unequaled, and the beach is longer 
than any bit of sea-coast in this part of the State. With the luxurious hotel 
accommodations provided, and the superior bathing facilities always at hand, 
Clatsop offers inducements not elsewhere extended to the traveler in pursuit of 
happiness and solid comfort. Ilwaco is a charming village across the river 
from Astoria. A miniature railway runs out to the long pier, and passengers 
step from the boat onto the train and whirl away to the outside beach two miles 
distant, where one luxuriates in the mild majesty of the Pacific. Secure round- 
trip tickets and berth.s, sleep on board, and watch the moon rise over the harbor 
bar. There are satiated old-timers who pronounce this the most luxurious of 
all the trips offered the tourist out of Portland. The cuisine of these steamers 
is as fine as any hotel on the coast, and the staterooms, attendance and con- 
veniences are simply perfect. 

CRATER LAKE. 

Crater Lake, Oregon, can be reached from Medford, Oregon, on the Mt. 
Shasta route of the Southern Pacific Company, and stage line to Ft. Klamath, 
the military post in the Klamath Indian Reservation. The distance by stage 
from Medford to Ft. Klamath is about ninety miles, and from Ft. Klamath to 
Crater Lake about twenty-two miles. 

Crater Lake is situated in the Oregon National Park, about twenty-two 
miles north of Ft. Klamath, among the summits of the Cascade Range. It is 
the crater of a long extinct volcano, and its waters, formerly believed to be 
fathomless, were found by the measurements of the geological survey to be 
4,000 feet deep. 

The surface of the lake is 6,351 feet above the level of the sea, and its 
shores rise almost perpendicularly from the water's edge to a height of from 
1,000 to over 2,000 feet — that is, to an elevation of from 7,351 to over 8,351 
feet above sea-level ; three-fourths the height of Mt. Hood, only 1,000 feet 
lower than Mt. St. Helen's and 2,000 feet above Mt. Washington. 

It is oblong in shape, being seven miles long and six miles broad, and 
covering an area of about forty-two square miles. Out of its abysmal depths 
rise numerous islands, towering precipitously to enormous heights. Shag 
Rock is 2,115 feet high, Button Cliff 2,109 f^^t, Llao Rock 2,000 feet, Helio- 
trope Station 1,965 feet, and Wizard Island towers 845 feet above the surface 
of the water. 

It is in many respects the most wonderful body of water in the world. Lake 
Baikal, in Siberia, is eighty feet deeper, but it is a sea in comparison, covering 
a space of 54 by 397 miles. 



102 WESTERN RESORTS 

Though it lies on the very ridge of the great Cascade Range, and Mt. Scott, 
close by towers in snowy majesty to a height of 9,117 feet above the sea, the 
ascent is easy, and wagons can be driven to its very brmk. The visitor 
approaching the spot, suddenly emerges from the belt of encircling timber into 
an amphitheatre of desolation. Huge masses of rocks, lava, cinders, scoria, 
and pumice stone, lie scattered and piled all around ; rocky pinnacles tower 
skyward on every hand ; and just beyond rises a semicircle of mountain peaks, 
from 200 to 1,000 feet high. Advancing a few steps farther, one is suddenly, 
without warning, on the brink of the abyss, and cautiously peering over its edge, 
the inky waters of the lake are seen in glassy calm, or in stormy tumult, 2,000 
feet below in the very bowels of the mountain. The dizzy walls are scarred, 
melted, and blackened from the belching floods of flame and molten lava that 
ages since were vomited up from the Plutonian furnaces of the central earth ; 
and lying flaf upon the ground, a stone dropped will almost pass from sight 
before it strikes a projection in the perpendicular wall. 

It is a sublime, a majestic, an awful — almost a horrible — spectacle, and the 
head swims with the contemplation of it. It is little wonder that the simple- 
minded natives believe it to be inhabited by llaos, or devils, and regard a 
curious glance therein as a profanation. Their traditions teach them that ages 
ago it was the scene of terrible convulsions — of fiery struggles between warring 
spirits, and that the conquerors retain possession to this day. Geologists 
confirm these traditions, in teaching us that the mountain once rose to a height 
of 10,000 to 20,000 feet, and was a peculiarly active volcano, the peak having 
been gradually eroded by the violence of the successive eruptions to its 
present height. 

The vent of the final eruption was Wizard Island, a regularly conical 
mountain of cinder, with a cup-shaped top usually filled with snow. 

There are several descents by which access can be had to the level of the 
lake, where the visitor may enjoy the strange luxury of a boat-ride over the 
waters of Jules Verne's "Central Sea," and look up, as it were, through the 
chimney of the globe, and picture the terrible energies that once found through 
it a vent, with fire, and smoke and quakings, and vast thunders of torment 
compared to which the throes of ^-Etna are but pigamy tremors. 

THE AIT. SHASTA ROUTE. 

(from PORTLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO.) 

The Mt. Shasta route is very interesting, and the tourist should see its 
marvels to fully appreciate the wonders of Oregon and California. This route, 
through the western portion of Oregon, southward through the northern por- 
tion of California, 772 miles from Portland to San Francisco, passes through a 
country fertile in resources, and rich in points of scenic interest. Particularly 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 103 

is this true of Northern California, which will in time equal and excel the 
southern portions of the State in wealth and population ; and the rapid strides 
this section has been making since the completion of the Mt. Shasta route 
by the Southern Pacific Company augurs well for its future importance and 
prosperity. 

The Mt. Shasta route takes its name from Mt. Shasta, which is situated on 
its line in California. It is one of the most wonderful mountains in the world, 
as well as one of the largest. It has a number of peaks : Main Peak, altitude, 
14,440; Thumb Rock, 13,000, and Crater Peak, 12,900. The view from the 
different portions of the mountain is incomparably lovely, and cannot be 
excelled on the American continent. Other points of interest are Mt. Hood 
(which is reached by stage from this line of road), Umpqua and Rogue River 
Mountains. The Rogue River Valley, the Siskiyous, Strawberry Valley, one of 
the scenic wonders of the Pacific coast, the plains of Northern California, 
Upper Soda Springs in Sacramento Cafion, Lower Soda Springs, the Sacra- 
mento River, which rises at the base of Mt. Shasta, and is one of the most 
beautiful rivers in the world, and Mossbrae Falls, are a few of the wonders 
presented to the tourist in the trip from Portland to San Francisco via the Mt. 
Shasta route. 

Note. — For further information see " Sights and Scenes in Oregon and 
Washington," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and 
containing minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts. 

The Union Pacific Railway will sell, at greatly reduced rates, a series of 
excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland as a central point. 
Stop-over privileges will be given within the limitation of the tickets. 

First Columbia Tour : Portland to " The Dalles " by rail, and return by 
river. 

Second Columbia Tour : Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach 
and return by river. 

Third Columbia Tour : Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma 
by boat and return. 

Fourth Columbia Tour : Portland to Alaska and return. 

Fifth Columbia Tour : Portland to San Francisco by boat. 





(104) 




THE ALASKAN VOYAGE. 



ASKA is the largest and most northerly domain owned by any 
country with possessions on the North American continent. 
The exploration of its south-eastern coast line by the hardy 
seamen of England and Russia antedates the Declaration of 
Independence many years. Scattered over its vast expanse are 
some of the greatest natural wonders of the world. Its glaciers, 
its mountains, its archipelagoes of islands, its mighty rivers, are 
typical in their grandeur and beauty of their birthplace. Among 
these dwell a primitive race whose history is lost in the shadows 
of antiquity. Their oral traditions are as vague as the sea 
mists. They have never wholly relinquished the habits and 
customs of their barbarous ancestors. 

In isolated places they use to-day the same household utensils, the same 
weapons for war and hunting, the same methods of catching and preparing fish 
(the main source of their food supply) as were habitual to their early progeni- 
tors. Their canoes are modeled on the same lines and made in the same 
laborious fashion, with the same kind of crude implements used long ago, and 
there is certainly nothing more graceful and beautiful as a water vehicle than 
the Siwash canoes of the southeast coast. Their basket and blanket work is 
the same now as in the by-gone time. Their present silversmiths, working in 
malleable metals, are making reproductions in miniature of the carvings on 
stone and wood, which every leading family possesses and cherishes as its 
sign-manual of distinction. These are the passports of the Thlinkets' four 
hundred. 

In addition to these picturesque people and their handiwork are Alaska's 
numerous natural productions. Its gold, and silver, and coal, and iron ; its 
magnificent yellow cedar and other wonderful and valuable forest growths, and 
its long list of furbearing animals, including the fur seal, the Russian sable, 
the silver fox, and the sea otter, most valuable of all marketable furs. 

The native islanders, according to some authorities, called the mainland 
"Al-ay-ek-sa," which signifies " great country," and the word has been cor- 

(105) 




THE BELLE OF SiTKA, ALASKA. 



106) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 107 

rupted into "Alaska." Mr. Alexander Badlam, of the old California Russia 
Fur Company, and a high authority on Alaska, says the aboriginal word is 
" Al-ak-shak," and that this was the term the early voyagers heard applied to 
the unknown land. This name is found on old German, French and Spanish 
maps. Captain Cook's atlas of his first voyage m 1778 probably gave the first 
Saxon spelling and pronunciation. This immense empire, it will be remem- 
bered, was sold by Russia to the United States October 18, 1867, for $7,200- 
000. The country was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. The Spaniards 
made as far north as Sitka in 1775, '^'"'^ Captain Cook followed in 1776. 
Alaska has an area of 578,000 square miles, and is nearly one-fifth as large as 
all the other States and Territories combined. It is larger than twelve States 
the size of New York. 

The best time to visit Alaska is from June to September. The latter 
month is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, but the days begin 
to grow short. The trip occupies from twelve to twenty days. 

As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturally follows that an 
umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer for a lady and a mackintosh 
for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, and coarse, warm and comfortable clothing 
for both should be provided. It is cool enough even in July and August for 
h-eavy wraps during the greater part of the trip. 

There are no " Palace " hotels in Alaska. One will have no desire to 
remain a trip over there. The tourist goes necessarily when and where the 
steamer goes, and will have an opportunity to see all there is of note or worth 
seeing in southeastern Alaska. The steamer sometimes goes north as far as 
Chilcat, say up to about the 59th degree of north latitude. The pleasure is not 
so much in the stopping as in the going. 

One is constantly passing through new channels, past new islands opening 
up new points of interest, until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent 
in nature is reached. 

During the past eight years many thousand tourists visited Alaska. To say 
they were pleased conveys but a faint impression of their enthusiasm. They 
were delighted — charmed. Ask any of them, it matters not whom ; they all 
make the same report, and tell the same story of the matchless grandeur of 
the trip, of the midnight sun, of the placid waters, of the aurora borealis, of 
the majestic mountains, of the inland seas, of the mighty glaciers, of the thun- 
dering iceberg plunging into the sea and floating off in its glory of inimitable 
splendor, of the wealth of fish, timber and minerals, of the biggest quartz mill 
ever constructed, of the queer customs of the natives, of novel and startling 
incidents that may well make the trip the object of a lifetime. 

The Union Pacific System, the original overland route, affords the trav- 
eler quick, luxurious transit from either Council Bluffs and Omaha or Kan- 




108) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 109 

sas City to Portland, Oregon. From here the tourist ha.s the choice of two 
route.s : 

1. Take the Ala-ska steamer at Portland, and proceed down the Columbia 
River to Astoria, thence across the bar, up the coast, through the Straits of 
Fuca to Port Townsend, and await the arrival of the connecting steamer from 
San Francisco. 

2. From Portland to Tacoma. Passengers to leave Portland can obtain 
tickets and further information by calling at the ticket office of the P. C. S. S. 
Co., 8;^ First Street. Passengers from Seattle or other points on the Sound 
can engage passage and obtain information by applying to the Company's 
agents at Victoria, Port Townsend, Seattle or Tacoma. 

It is a pleasant journey through the pine forests from Portland to Tacoma, 
150 miles distant, and at Tacoma the Alaskan journey begins. Tacoma was 
founded in 1873 and the site was selected on the theory that ocean commerce, 
enteringthegreat harbor of Puget Sound, would press inland as far as practica- 
ble to meet the railroads approaching it from the east and south. 

Seattle is reached in three hours, a busy town of 50,000 people, full of vim, 
push and energy. Twenty million dollars' worth of property went up in flame 
and smoke in Seattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The ashes were scarcely 
cold when her enthusiastic citizens began to build anew, better, stronger and 
more beautiful than before. A city of brick, stone and iron has arisen, monu- 
mental evidence of the energy, pluck and preseverance of the people, and of 
their fervent faith in the future of Seattle. 

Seattle is located upon a hilly strip of land from two and one-half to five 
miles in width, between Puget Sound and Lake Washington, twenty-five miles 
ong and five miles wide, lying parallel with the Sound. The sight on 
approach from the Sound is of a city built upon a hill-side, every large build- 
ing standing out by itself and affording the best possible view of a large part 
of the city. There is a continuous range of buildings from Smith's cove on 
the north, to the head of the harbor on the south, a distance of five miles. At 
night the scene from the harbor is strongly remindful of San Francisco. 

The growth of Seattle has been simply marvelous. In 1870 the town had 
1,107 inhabitants; the census of 1890 shows a total of 43,847 people and the 
suburbs have a population of 4,915, so that Seattle may fairly claim a figure 
of 50,000 inhabitants. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harbor and 
gently sloping bluffs, " the city of destiny," beyond all doubt, of any of the 
towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways, Townsend has the 
finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground in these waters, and this must 
tell in the end, when advantages for sea trade are considered. Victoria, B. C, 
is reached in the evening, and we sleep that night in Her Majesty's dominions. 
The next day may be spent very pleasantly in driving and walking about the 
city, a handsome town of 16,000 people. 




(110) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. HI 

Victoria is beautifully situated on the southeast extremity of Vancouver 
Island. 

Fort Victoria, a subsidiary depot of the Hudson Bay Company — the chief 
depot then being at Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia River — was established 
in 1843, and in 1S48, at the time of the " Cayuse war," it became an important 
position for sending supplies to the interior. In 1858, about the time of the 
gold-mining excitement on the Fraser and the Skagit, New Georgia and New 
Caledonia, as the main coast and interior had previously been designated, be- 
came by royal edict British Columbia, and in 1866 the colony of Vancouver 
Island was united^therewith. Fort Victoria, meanwhile, became the city 
of Victoria. The place presents many interesting features to the stranger. 

THE COURSE. 

In making the passage from Victoria to Alaskan waters the first body of 
water met with is the Gulf of Georgia. The only known outlet from the 
northwestern part from the Gulf of Georgia to the northwest lies between the 
western side of Valdis Island and the northeastern shore of Vancouver's Is- 
land and is called Discovery Passage. This island was named for Don Caye- 
tano Valdis, who visited these waters in 1792, in the Spanish galliot Mexicana. 
Midway in Discovery Passage is Seymour Narrows. The shores on both sides 
are rugged, high and bold. The summits on the Valdis shore rise to the 
height of seven hundred feet, and those on the Vancouver side have the ap- 
pearance of being decidedly higher. Owing to the narrowness of this gorge 
the tides rush through with great velocity, attaining fully nine knots an hour 
at spring tides. 

Johnston's Straits separate the northern side of Vancouver Island from the 
Thurlow and other islands and the main land. These straits are about fifty- 
five miles in length and have a width of from one to two miles. 

Broughton Strait connects Johnston's Strait and Queen Charlotte's Sound 
and is about fifteen miles in length, the breadth varying from one to four 
miles. 

Queen Charlotte's Sound, an extensive arm of the sea, connects the inner 
channels north of Vancouver Island with the Pacific Ocean. It was named by 
Commander Wedgborough, in August, 17S6. It has a maximum length east 
and west of over fifty miles, and a width of from ten to twenty-five miles. It 
was named Pintdard's Sound by Capt. Gray, of the U. S. Ship Columbia, 
in 1789, after J. M. Pintdard, of Boston, one of his owners. 

Crossing Queen Charlotte's Sound we enter Fitz Hugh's Sound. This 
passage was named by Capt. James Hanna, in 1786. 

Milbank Sound was named by Duncan in 1788. This sound is over eight 
miles wide and fifteen miles long. 



112 WESTERN RESORTS 

Finlayson Channel is next above, extending a distance of tliirty miles. The 
shores are densely wooded, the timber extending to the height of 1,500 feet on 
the mountain sides, while the peaks, closely approaching the shores of the 
channel, rise in a precipitous manner to the height of nearly 3,000 feet on 
either hand, with higher mountains beyond them. Patches of snow in the 
ravines are reported in August, and probably exist throughout the year. 
From these and from various lakes at a high altitude cascades of remarkable 
height and beauty fall down the abrupt mountain flanks, and in some cases 
swarm with salmon in their season, affording a bountiful supply of food to the 
Indians of this region. t 

The passage leading to the northwest is called by English authorities Gra- 
ham Reach and Hie-Hish Narrows. These narrows connect Finlayson Channel 
with Graham Reach, and are about five miles and a half long. 

Next above Graham Reach is the famous Grenville Channel, which extends 
west-northwest forty-five miles without any bend or curvature of importance. 
Its width varies from a mile to a mile and two-thirds. 

Leaving Grenville Channel the course runs through Malacca Passage into 
Chatham Sound. This sheet of water is about thirty-five miles long with an 
average width of eight miles. 

Next comes Dixon Entrance, an arm of the Pacific Ocean which bears 
inland. 

Passing through Revillagigedo Channel we enter Duke of Clarence Strait. 
This strait extends from Dixon Entrance to Summer Strait, northwest by west 
107 miles. Width varying from three and half to twenty miles. 

From Clarence Strait the course lies north across Sumner Strait into Wran- 
gel Narrows. This latter difficult and narrow passage is nineteen miles in 
length. The tidal influence here is very strong and is navigable only at high 
tide. 

We next enter Frederick's Sound, the course lying north a distance of forty 
miles. Thence through Stephen's Passage to Juneau and Douglas Island. 

From this point through unimportant channels the course is laid north up 
Lynn Canal to Chilcat, and returning bearing westward to Glacier Bay. Re- 
turning, a southerly course is pursued until Chatham Strait is reached, where 
a choice may be taken of two routes, one through Cross Sound, outside, down 
the Pacific to Sitka Bay, and the other through Peril Straits to Sitka. The 
former course is preferred when the weather is thick, as Peril Straits are some- 
what difficult navigation. The return voyage is north with slight variation 
over the same course — tide and weather occasionally forcing a change of 
route. The course run is absolutely safe, and the tourist may rest assured 
that all possible danger has been avoided. The most dangerous channels pos- 
sess an element of safety in so far as the passenger is concerned — even if an 
accident happened to the ship, the passengers could be put on land with the 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 113 

greatest ease, so close are the shores. Not a life has been lost of all the 
thousands who have been carried in .safety over these far distant northern 
waters. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 

Tacoma to Seattle 25 miles. 

Seattle to Port Townsend ^8 '< *' 

Port Townsend to Victoria ^ c « 

Victoria to Active Pass og « < 

Victoria to Nanaimo 7^ < ^ 

\'ictoria to Seymour Narrows i cq <« 

Nanaimo to Tongas Narrows cqq u 

Fort Tongas to Tongas Narrows c^ <' 

Nuket Inlet to Fort Chester 53 " 

Fort Chester to Tongas Narrows i c n 

Tongas Narrows to Loring 24 " 

Loring to Wrangel 88 u 

Loring to Yaas Bay 22 " 

Yaas Bay to Wrangel 100 " 

Wrangel to Juneau. i^o ci 

Juneau to Killisnoo go '< 

Juneau to Glacier Bay no " 

Juneau to Sitka i -q a 

Sitka to Chilkat 17 c u 

Sitka to Killisnoo 73 n 

Sitka to Bartlet's Bay i cq " 

Bartlet's Bay to Chilkat 08 " 

Victoria to Tongas Narrows 588 « 

\'ictoria to Bartlet's Bay 704 " 

Port Townsend to Tongas Narrows 703 " 

Tono-as Narrows to Yaas Bay -18 " 

Bartlet's Bay to Killisnoo 80 " 

Tongas Nan-ows to Nanaimo coo " 

Tacoma to Tongas 755 a 

Tacoma to Fort Wrangel 865 " 

Tacoma to Juneau I 008 " 

Tacoma to Killisnoo i j 14 u 

Tacoma to Chilkat i 203 " 

Tacoma to Sitka I ^78 « 

These are chart distances and substantially correct. 

Note. — For full and particular description of the Alaskan Voyage, see 

"Sights and Scenes in Alaska," issued by the Passenger Department of the 
Union Pacific System, Omaha, Nebraska. 




(114) 



UTAH POINTS. 




TAH was originally part of the territory of Upper California 
ceded to the United States by the Mexican treaty of 1848, and 
was settled by the Mormons under Brigham Young in 1847, 
A Territorial government was formed September 9, 1850. The 
name "Utah" is of Indian derivation, and signifies "a home 
or location on a mountain top." The Territory contains 84,000 
square miles; is 350 miles long by 260 wide. There are 
400,000 acres of land under cultivation, and the yearly value 
of farm products as last reported was upward of $10,000,000. We 
have but scant and meagre mention of Utah in any historical record. Great 
Salt Lake was first mentioned by Baron La Hontan in 1689, but he knew of it 
only from Indian traditions. Captain Bonneville's party failed to reach there 
in 1833, and wandered aimlessly into Southern California. General Fremont 
was the first white man who invaded the solemn stillness of this mysterious 
sea, in 1842. 

OGDEN. 

Ogden is one of the western termini of the Union Pacific. It has an 
elevation of about 4,301 feet above the sea-level. It has a population of about 
12,000 people, and is steadily gaining all the time. While its growth has been 
slow, it has been on a solid basis. The enormous supplies in shipments from 
the great country tributary to it give employment in their transfer to a large 
number of men. Here are located the division headquarters and shops of the 
Union and the Southern Pacific railroads. It has good schools, hotels, banks, 
and churches, and the surrounding country possesses much to attract the. 
tourist. 

Just north of Ogden, and beyond the Utah Hot Springs, is the celebrated! 
Cache Valley, oval in form, and surrounded by niountains and trimmed with 
green-fringed brooks and rivulets. Through this valley runs the Utah & 
Northern Branch to Pocatello, and north of the valley is the famous Port 
Neuf Canon, unusually picturesque in formation. 

(115) 




(116) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 117 

ECHO CANON 

Is on the main line of the Union Pacific, and is entered upon soon after leaving 
Evanston, Wyoming. " Echo Canon," says a celebrated English traveler, " is 
a superb defile. It moves along like some majestic poem in a series of incom- 
parable stanzas. There is nothing that I know of on the earth like it." This 
masterpiece of Nature is some thirty miles long, and its wonderful diversity of 
contour, its beauty and its grandeur are astounding. It has every feature of 
impressiveness, strong, sharply defined color, and groupings of majestic forms 
— temples, towers, colonnades stretching out in long perspective, and support- 
ing the weight of mighty cornices, striking objects whose vast proportions show 
them to be the work of Nature alone, and yet their symmetrical forms are as 
true as if fashioned by the hand of man. Geologists tell us that this section is 
undoubtedly among the most anciently exposed portions of the American 
continent. Among the wonders of this marvelous defile the tourist will note 
"Hanging Rock," "The Steamboat," "Gibraltar," "Monument Rock," and 
" Pulpit Rock," famous the world over. Pulpit Rock is so called from its shape, 
and from the supposition that Brigham Young preached from it his first sermon 
on Utah soil, addressed to the pioneers then on their way to the Salt Lake 
Valley, in 1847. 

WEBER CANON 

Is on the main line of the Union Pacific. Between the little town of Echo and 
the head of \Veber Canon there are several miles of the Weber Valley, luxuriant 
in meadows and dotted with farm houses. Weber Caiion is not simply a long 
defile through the mountains, but it is a majestic succession of true mountain 
scenery ; mighty gateways, long, narrow valleys, visions of great peaks, holding 
in their ravines eternal snow, heights crested with pine and aspen, and towers 
and domes of rock. Says an eloquent writer : " As on the Rhine, the long 
stretch of the river from Mainz to Cologne has been for years by acknowledg- 
ment ' The River,' so that portion of the Union Pacific which lies between 
Wahsatch and Ogden in this northern part of Utah will some day be that part 
of the journey across the center of the continent which will be regarded by 
the tourist as necessary to see beyond all others. And long after the Pacific 
journey is as hackneyed to Europeans and Americans as the Rhine tour is now, 
Weber Canon will keep its freshness among the most marked scenes of the 
journey. It is a place which cities and settlements cannot destroy." Among 
the many points of interest the traveler will note "Wilhelmina Pass," "Devil's 
Slide," the "One-thousand Mile Tree" (from Omaha), and the "Devil's Gate.' 

SYRACUSE BEACH. 

Syracuse Beach, fifteen miles from Ogden, is reached by the Utah Central 
Branch of the Union Pacific. Here the tourist will find an excellent strand 




(118) 



FOR HEALTH AND TLEASURE. 119 

and comfortable appliances for bathing. Close at hand are lovely groves, cool, 
shady, and inviting, where an ideal picnic can be held. Syracuse Beach is 
beginning to be recognized as c. charming summer resort for families who 
desire to spend the heated term by the seaside. 

OGDEN CANON. 

Ogden Canon, one of Utah's chief scenic attractions, is reached by a half- 
hour's drive over a good road from Ogden. The Ogden River, which courses 
between its walls, is a famous trout stream. The sides of this canon are very 
precipitous and picturesque, rivaling the American Fork in the variety and 
character of their striking features. At the head of the canon is an elevated 
park, called Ogden Park, and beyond this the drive may be extended to Cache 
and Bear Lake Valleys. 

UTAH HOT SPRINGS. 

These springs are sometimes called Red Springs, and sometimes Ogden 
Springs. They are just nine miles north of Ogden, and are readily reached from 
there over the Utah & Northern Branch of the Union Pacific to Hot Springs 
Station, which is a regular station on the road, and the springs are but a few 
steps away. All trains stop at the door of the hotel. This hotel is plainly 
but comfortably furnished, accommodating about 150 people, and additional 
accommodations are being provided every season. These springs have an 
elevation of some 4,500 feet ab(3ve sea-level, and are far superior to the cele- 
brated Hot Springs of Arkansas. The main spring boils up at the foot of a 
low ridge of the Wahsatch Mountains, a short distance east of the railway 
station. These springs impart a red hue to the surrounding soil. Their 
temperature is so high that the hand cannot be held in the water without 
great pain. The water is conducted into the hotel from the springs in wooden 
pipes for private bathing and for the great open bath, when it becomes cool 
enough for use. These springs are patronized all the year round, and are very 
efficacious in curing rheumatism, neuralgia, catarrh, and all skin, blood and 
kidney diseases. The waters are intensely hot, and their chief constituents are 
iron, magnesia, soda and salt. 

The bracing air of the Wahsatch Range, mingling with the saline breezes of 
the Great Salt Lake, with the pure water of these thermal, balsamic springs, 
nowhere excelled for drinking or bathing purposes, produce a natural combina- 
tion of marvelously curative properties. 

The flow is about 156,000 gallons of water every twenty-four hours, at a 
temperature of 131° Fahrenheit. A close analysis of the water by Prof. Spencer 




(120) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 121 

F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D. C, shows that besides 
containing carbonate of iron in heavy deposits, it also contains : 

Grains to 
„.,. the gallon. 

Sihca 2.687 

Alumina 0.234 

Calcium sulphate 18.074 

Calcium chloride 170.081 

Potassium chloride 97-741 

Sodium chloride 1,052.475 

Magnesium chloride • i .067 

Magnesium carbonate , 1 1 .770 

The bathing accommodations consist of a number of private tubs, for vapor 
or steam, and hot mud baths. The latter is the great Indian cure for rheuma- 
tism. Besides supplying these baths, this wonderful water is run into an out- 
side summer bath ifi6 x 204 feet, three feet deep at the upper, and seven at the 
lower, side, arranged with foot-runs and spring-boards, thus affording amuse- 
ment for hundreds at a time. 

WILLARD CASON AND FALLS 

Are reached via the Union Pacific to Ogden, and thence via the Utah & North- 
ern Branch of the Union Pacific to Willard Station where a good team can be 
had for the falls. The distance from Willard Station is three miles. 

Willard is the name of a picturesque little town six miles beyond the Ogden 
Hot Springs. It is surrounded on all sides by natural beauty, but mostly the 
eye is attracted toward the west, where the Great Salt Lake, with its deep blue 
waters and mountainous islands is seen to fine advantage; and to the east where 
there is such a wild lot of beetling crags, which, for height and grandeur are 
not exceeded by even the wonders of Echo and Weber Caiions. 

Just back of the town are the falls, situated in a cafion or glen, truly alpine 
in its wildness. Some of its walls of rock are simply terrific, and during the 
early months its stream comes down with a magnificent rush. There are great 
naked aiguilles and towers which make one dizzy to look up to their summits. 
About two miles from the entrance there is a huge mountain which, where it 
faces down the glen, is a bristling mass of crags, jags and splinters, but which, 
at the back, has all of its ledges so smoothly polished that not a foothold could 
be found upon them. Such a mountain as we dream of when our sleep is fever- 
ish, and imagine ourselves going down, down, down, vainly catching at bits of 
"feeam-grown grass which, breaking at our grasp, lets us slowly glide. 

A week's sojourn at Willard at any time from May to October means a week 
of rare enjoyment. 

GARFIELD BEACH. 

Garfield Beach, or Black Rock, is eighteen miles from Salt Lake City on the 
shores of the Great Salt Lake, and is reached from Salt Lake City by the Utah 
& Nevada Branch of the Union Pacific. During the season trains run back 




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FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 123 

and forth at frequent intervals during the day and evening. It is the only real 
sand beach on the lake, and is considered by many to be the finest in the world. 
It should be, and will be, the great resort of the continent. It is not a sullen, 
listless sheet of water, beating idly on the shores, barren and repellent; but 
on the contrary, it is as beautiful a sheet of water as can be found anywhere. 
The waves are a bright blue or green, and as they dance on its surface it would 
be hard to tell which color prevails. The water supports no life. Its constant 
sinking and rising is only one of its many curious phases. The sensation upon 
entering the water is novel and congenial. In the long, sunny days of June, 
July, August, and September, the water becomes delightfully warm, much 
warmer than the ocean. It is 21 per cent, salt, while the ocean is only 3 per 
cent. The water is so dense that a person is sustained on its surface indefinitely 
without effort. Experience has proven its great hygienic effects. Owing to the 
stimulating effect of the brine upon the skin, or the saline air upon the lungs, 
or both together, the appetite is stimulated, and after a bath, bathers are ready 
for a hearty meal. The baths are extremely invigorating. If there is any abra- 
sion upon the skin it will smart for an instant when it touches the brine, but 
after the bath the smarting is gone, never to return; and after rinsing off in the 
fresh water, provided in every bath-room, there is a sense of cleanliness more 
perfect than any other bath can produce. A fine bath-house accommodating 
400 people has been erected at Garfield Beach, in connection with which there 
is a first-class restaurant, and a large dancing-pavilion built out into the lake, 
all of which are run by the Pacific Hotel Company, under the supervision of 
the Union Pacific. At the restaurant excellent meals can be had during the 
entire season. The buildings at Garfield Beach are modern, have every con- 
venience, and were erected last year at a great cost. It is proposed to erect a 
large hotel on the beach, although the ready access which is had to and from 
the Salt Lake City hotels has heretofore rendered a hotel at Garfield Beach un- 
necessary. The view from the pavilion at Garfield Beach is one of surpassing 
loveliness. The mountains on the shore form a fine background to the rippling 
waters on the lake, which stretch out on either hand before the beholder, danc- 
ing in the sunlight, sometimes a beautiful blue, and at other times green, with 
three or four of the largest islands in full view, which, in the distance, have a 
peculiar purplish hue. 

Concerning Garfield Beach as a health and pleasure resort the following can- 
did remarks of a prominent Western journalist may not be uninteresting: 

" It is true I am not the first to visit Garfield Beach, but it so happens that 
those who have visited it ahead of me have not properly published its wonders 
in the public press, and people are not, therefore aware of the fact that Salt 
Lake is already one of the most attractive bathing resorts in this country. 

Some day people will visit Salt Lake as they now throng the sea-shore. 
Some day the boarders of this immense inland sea will be lined with large 
hotels, elegant villas, and gaily-colored bathing-houses. The waves of this 




(124) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 125 

briny lake will some day bear the light burden of excursion boats, yachts, and 
row-boats in large numbers. The mountains around it will be dotted with 
country homes and scoured by excursion parties. The seekers after health and 
recreation will find both in the benefits and pleasures of frequent baths in this 
most wonderful of lakes. 

" Salt-water bathing may now be enjoyed by all who visit Salt Lake, and it 
cannot fail to convert this place into a great health resort. Good bathing- 
houses having been erected and railroad accommodations made adequate ; 
hundreds of bathers enter the waters of Salt Lake every day, and hourly trains 
run from the city to the beach. 

" Have you ever bathed in water that is 2 t per cent, or almost one-fourth, 
salt ? Probably not. Comparatively very few people have yet realized, the ex- 
hilarating and invigorating effects of a bath in Salt Lake, and nowhere else in 
the world can such water be found. The water of the ocean is 3 per cent, salt 
and considerably more buoyant than fresh water. The water of Salt Lake con- 
tains nearly eight times as much salt as the water of the ocean and is so buoyant 
that 3 human being floats upon its surface like a log of wood. Men, women, and 
children, totally unable to swim, enter the lake with perfect safety, and in their 
gaily-colored bathing-suits bob around in the water like so many human bubbles. 
So great is the specific gravity of the water in this lake that a person cannot 
sink, and the only evil to guard against is getting a mouthful of salt water, 
which is so strong as to choke one disagreeably and even painfully. 

"Garfield Beach, the bathing resort par excellence of the lake, is established 
on the shores of the Great Salt Lake, and is reached by the Utah & Nevada 
Branch of the Union Pacific from the city in from half an hour to forty-five 
minutes. It is located on the southern shore of the lake, about eighteen miles 
distant from the city, at the base of high mountains. Five hundred bathers were 
enjoying the waters of this beach when the writer, attired in a gaudy bathing- 
suit, entered the briny flood. We soon found ourselves in the midst of men, 
women, and children, indolently floating on the water or lazily swimming to 
and fro. The habits of the fresh-water bathers are more brisk, and naturally 
enough 1 'struck out,' as the saying is, to do some swiming. In a moment I 
wished I had not been in such a hurry. My feet and hands bobbed up to the 
surface, or near it, and the consequent splash of water landed several stinging 
drops in my eyes. For a moment the briny, burning sensation was quite severe, 
far more so than ocean water could make it. I then realized what excellent 
judgment was displayed by those who behaved more quietly in the water. They 
had no difficulty in keeping eyes, nose and mouth free from the strong brine, 
which is so pleasant to float in. .\ little experience will enable anyone to float 
and slowly swim in this water without getting it into his mouth or eyes. The 
chief precaution is to keep quiet, and that the bathers realize this is evident 
from the lazy manner in which they lie around in the water, or the equally lazy 
way in which they roll, or swim, or paddle from place to place. 




JACK IN THE PULPIT, ECHO CANON, UTAH— on the Union Pacific Syst 



(126) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 127 

"The fresh-water bathers cannot but l)c surprised at the feats performed in 
this lake without any difficulty. Men lie on their backs in the water quietly 
smoking as they are rocked delightfully in the swells which roll ia lazy waves 
upon the beach. Men and women lying upon their backs form long processions, 
the leader putting his feet under the armpits of the next person, and he or she 
in turn doing the same to the third person in line. In this way eight or ten 
linked together may be seen floating on the water, slowly proceeding in proces- 
sion, as the leader uses his arms to propel the human raft. Those who thus 
link themselves together are, I presui^e, well acquainted with each other. Sev- 
eral ladies dressed in fancy bathing-suits attracted my attention from the ease 
and grace of their movements in the water. Indeed, one cannot fail to note 
that women are far more graceful in the water than men, as soon as they ac- 
quire confidence, which they appear to gain very soon. 

" It is common for the bathers in this lake to remain in the water an hour. 
Many extend the time to two and some to three hours. Moderate bathing can 
be indulged in day after day without the ill effects which would follow such 
frequent bathing in fresh water. 

" I cannot close without renewing the prophecy of future greatness for 
Salt Lake as a summer resort. To develop the great advantages of the lake 
and to make them accessible to the people of the East, the Union Pacific pur- 
sues a liberal policy. Salt Lake is no farther from the Missouri River than 
Chicago is from the Atlantic coast, and Eastern people are able to reach this 
splendid salt-water bathing place just as quickly as Chicago people can travel 
to the coast, as the Union Pacific now run their trains in thirty-six hours from 
the Missouri River, and will doubtless soon shorten this time to thirty hours or 
less. The rate of fare is very reasonable, excursion tickets being sold at a 
greatly reduced rate everywhere. 

" The people of the Western States long for a cheaply accessible summer 
resort. The ocean coasts are too far away; but Salt Lake, only i,ooo miles 
from the Missouri River, offers already a combination of atractions unequaled 
anywhere else in America. The visitor can bathe in salt water on a splendid 
beach, surrounded by lofty mountains ; he can take hot sulphur baths in 
water coming from natural springs above the city; he can drink mineral waters 
coming from neighboring springs ; he can make short excursions on foot or on 
horseback into canons within a few hours' ride of the city; he can find excellent 
fishing in many mountain streams, and he can have the opportunity of watch- 
ing and studying the strangest people in America — the only one, in fact, which 
submits to and believes in a union of church and state, and the priestly 
rule. 

" To my taste. Salt Lake is already a far more attractive summer resort 
than others to which wealth and fashion throng, and as vet the development 
of its attractions has only begun. A man can take his family and come to Salt 




(138) 



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FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 129 

Lake in thirty-six hours over the Union Pacific, and if desired can return by 
way of Denver. The splendid scenery in the Weber and Echo Canons of the 
Union Pacific, coupled with the attractions and wonders of Salt Lake, makes 
Salt Lake City the natural summer resort for those who are so fortunate as to 
be able to spend a few weeks of the hot weather away from home." 

Giant's Cave is located about a third of a mile to the southwest of Gar- 
field Beach, in one of the mountains comprising the Oquirrh Range, and the 
entrance to the cave is a few hundred feet above the road-bed of the Union 
Pacific. 

In years past, the cave was submerged beneath the waves of Great Salt Lake 
or, more correctly speaking, was probably hollowed out by its receding 
waters, so that, like Staffa, it has resounded to the wash of briny waters. Some- 
where between 500 and 600 feet is the distance the opening extends into the 
mountain, and the height of the ceiling above the floor varies from ten to 
seventy-five feet. The walls are composed of limestone, the ceiling and floor 
of conglomerate, and the sharp lines of demarkation produce the effect of its 
having been built by the hand of man. 

When the cave was first entered, nearly thirty years ago, it was found to 
contain a number of human skeletons. Whether the remains belong to the 
present race of Lidians in the Salt Lake Valley is not known, but most proba- 
bly they do. The skeletons are most likely those of warriors slain in some 
Indian fight of long ago, and a large number of arrow heads have been found 
in the hillside near the entrance, and occasionally one is picked up at the pres- 
ent day. These vary in size from one third of an inch to three inches in length, 
and are of many different patterns, the small ones showing fine workmanship. 
Li many cases they are made of agate and other transparent material. A 
pleasant morning or evening can be spent in exploring this cave and enjoying 
the sights it affords. 

GREAT SALT LAKE 

When Great Salt Lake was discovered it was out of the world, but it is now 
isolated no longer. Everyone taking the transcontinental trip on the Union 
Pacific is afforded a detour free of charge to Salt Lake City, and once in Salt 
Lake City, the great lake must be seen, and this lake, as a special feature, is 
becoming better and better known every year. It is called the " Dead Sea of 
America." 

The first mention of Great Salt Lake was made by the Baron La Hontan 
in 1689, who gathered some vague knowledge of its existence from the Western 
Indians. Captain Bonneville sent a party from Green River in 1833 to make 
its circuit, but they gave it uj) on striking the desert on the northwest, lost their 
way and finally wandered into California. Until Colonel Fremont visited it in 
1842, on his way to Oregon, it is probable that its dead waters had never been 




(130) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 131 

t 

invaded, or the solemn stillness of its islands broken by the paleface, although 
mention is made of the "Great Salt Sea" in the writings of other explorers. 
Brigham Young and the Mormon pioneers in '47 were the first settlers along its 
shores. From this time this region ceased to be a terra iticognita. 

There have been many analyses made of the waters of the Great Salt Lake, 
all of them agreeing that it is a solution consisting of chloride of sodium or 
common salt, or sulphates of silver, potash, alum, and the chloride of magne- 
sium. The following comparison of solid contents and specific gravity may be 
of interest : 

Solid Contents. Specific 
Per. Cent. Gravity. 

Great Salt Lake water 13.8 i . 107 

Dead Sea water 21.0 i .116 

Ocean water 3.5 i .026 

One of the most recent reliable analyses of the waters of the Great 
Salt Lake, by Prof. O. D. Allern, of New Haven, Conn., gave the following 
results : 

Solids. 
Per Cent. 

Chloride of sodium 79- n 

Chloride of magnesia 9.95 

Sulphate of soda 6.22 

Sulphate of potassa 3.58 

Sulphate of lime o. 57 

Excess of chlorine o. 57 

Total. 100.00 

The Jordan carries into the Great Salt Lake ten grains of salt per gallon of 
water. Great Salt^Lake has no outlet, and its fluctuating level is determined 
by the balance between in-flowing springs and solar evaporation. On the sur- 
rounding mountains are water lines rismg in steps to a thousand feet above its 
surface, showing that in ancient times a great body of water occupied its basin. 
This ancient body, which was known as Lake Bonneville, was 345 miles long 
from north to south, and 135 miles broad, and its vestiges are on so grand a 
scale that they have attracted the attention of not only geologists, but of every 
observant traveler. The principal islands are Antelope and Stansbury, on 
which are rocky ridges ranging north and south, and rising abruptly from the 
lake to an altitude of 3,000 feet. The view from the summit of Antelope is 
grand and magnificent, embracing the whole lake, the islands and the encircling 
mountains covered with snow — a superl) picture set in a frame- work of silver. 
The scenery on the eastern side of Stansbury is fine. Peak towers above peak, 
and cliff beyond cliff in lofty magnificence, while crowning the summit, the 
dome frowns in gloomy solitude upon the varied scene of bright waters, scat- 
tered verdure, and boundless plains of the western shore, in the arid desolation 




DEVIL'S SLIDE, WEBER CANON, UTAH— on the Union Pacific Systen 



(132) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 133 

below. Descendin.s: one way from the dome, a gorge, at first almost shut up 
between perpendicular cliffs of white sandstone, opens out into a superb, wide 
and gently sloping valley, sheltered on each side to the very water's edge by 
cliffs, effectually protected from all winds except on the east, and covered with 
the most luxuriant growth of bunch grass. Of the minor islands there are Fre- 
mont, Carrington, Gunnison, Dolphin, Mud, Egg, Hat, and several islands with- 
out a name. 

Great Salt Lake covers an area of 2,500 square miles, and its surface is 
higher than the average height of the Allegheny Mountains. Its mean depth 
probably does not exceed twenty feet, while the deepest place, between Ante- 
lope and Stansbury Islands, is sixty feet. The water is of a beautiful aqua- 
marine hue, and so clear that the bottom can be seen to the depth of four 
fathoms. Great Salt Lake is one of the greatest curiosities of America. Its 
extreme dimensions are about eighty miles in length by about 'fifty miles in 
width, and its elevation about 4,000 feet. Great Salt Lake is a wonderful place, 
and to be appreciated must be seen. 

SALT LAKE CITY. 

Salt Lake City is reached from Ogden via the Utah Central Branch of 
the Union Pacific, thirty-seven miles from Ogden. The ride from Ogden 
to Salt Lake City is one of peculiar interest, passing down the Utah or Salt 
Lake Valley, sloping gently from the mountains on the one side to the Great 
Salt Lake on the other. In fact the railway skirts the shores of the lake for 
almost the entire distance. Nine miles from Ogden is Syracuse Junction, from 
which point the Ogden & Syracuse branch of the Union Pacific runs to 
Syracuse Beach, a fine summer resort on Salt Lake. Just before entering Salt 
Lake City on the Union Pacific, are Beck's Hot Springs, three miles out, where 
there are good hotel accommodations and fine baths. The medicinal qualities 
of the water are good, and the place is largely frequented at all seasons of the 
year. It is well located and is only a few rods from the railway station. 

The famous Warm Sulphur Springs are within the northern limits of the 
city — about one mile from the business centre — and are easily reached by street 
cars. These springs issue from the base of the mountains, and the great virtue 
of the waters has long been recognized in cases of rheumatism, dyspepsia, 
catarrh, scrofula, and the entire family of blood diseases. Beneficent effects 
are experienced both by internal and external application. 

Salt Lake City was founded July 24, 1847, by the Mormons or Latter Day 
Saints. The city has a population of about 35,000 people, and the elevation is 
4,350 feet above sea-level. Her buildings are fine, both business blocks and 
private residences, and every indication of wealth is apparent. The points of 
interest are Fort Douglas, The Great Temple, The Tabernacle, The Assembly 
Hall, The Endowment House, and Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institute. 




GIANT'S CAVE, GARFIELD BEACH, ON GREAT SALT LAKE, UTAH — reached via Union Pacific System. 



(184) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 135 

Salt Lake City is one of the largest military posts in the West. The place 
attracts thousands of visitors annually, and the wide streets, lined with shade 
and fruit trees, bordered on either curl) by clear running streams, are of them- 
selves sights worth the long journey from the East. The luscious fruits of 
orchards and vineyards and the delightful view of the Wahsatch Range are 
additional attractions. 

The Tabernacle is oblong, oval, and many doored. Its seating capacity is 
about 12,000. The roof, with one exception, is the largest self-supported roof 
in the world. The Great Temple, just beside it, possesses more of beauty, but 
it is less quaint in style. It is slowly approaching completion. Its stately 
walls, of polished l-tah granite, rise loo feet above the foundation, and the 
towers are to reach loo feet higher. The building will be one of the most 
massive, imposing, and expensive churches in the world when completed. The 
grave of Brigham Young, his old residence, and the palace of his favorite wife, 
will be pointed out as objects of local interest. But from a geological stand- 
point the whole region merits attention. Driving to the high plateau which 
overlooks the city, on every hand is seen the valley, smooth, verdant, and 
dotted with farms. In the middle, the city peers through its myriads of leaves. 
Its long roads stretch into the country straight as an arrow for some fifteen 
miles, while to the south'is seen Fort Douglas, perched upon a high knoll over- 
looking the city. On the inclosing hills the old water-line of Great Salt Lake 
is visible, showing that at some time its salt waves dashed high above the dome 
of the Temple, and that this great valley was once an inland sea. Beneath this 
water-mark is another one, proving that the lake had at least two periods of 
sinking. The chief resort, however, is the Great Salt Lake, eighteen miles 
distant. This " Dead Sea of America," with its River Jordan and the distant 
Mount Nebo, have an interest kindred to the places of the same name in the 
Holy Lantl. The Mormons, who are inseparably identified with Salt Lake 
City, are a peculiar people, and, modeling their form of church government and 
many of their rites and ceremonies after those of the Hebrews, they have 
clothed the valley with a mantle of nomenclature which constantly reminds the 
traveler of the land from which sprang the Christian religion; and Salt Lake 
City itself, with its immense Tabernacle and Great Temple, has been consid- 
ered the Jerusalem of the Latter Day Saints. The fame of this city and its 
Mormon institutions has gone abroad into the four quarters of the globe, but 
its wonderful attractions for the tourist and the health and pleasure seeker, 
with its unlimited resources, are destined to give it a wider and more enduring 
fame in the near future. 

Salt Lake City, at the foot of the Wahsatch Mountains, and in sight of lonely 
Nebo, the loftiest peak of L'tah, would be 28,000 feet above Nebo now, if its site 
could take the altitude it occupied ages ago. That before becoming the bed of 
this lake, this site was a plateau 40,000 feet high, is clearly told in the story of 



136 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



the rocks. The mountains of old broke in half and settled back, leaving the 
valley between. The western slope of the eastern range, and the eastern slope 
of the western range, could some giant force bring them together, would fit 
like two cog-wheels. 

Note. — For further information, see " Sights and Scenes in Utah," issued 
by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing minute 
descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in Utah. 

The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates, during the 
summer season of 1891, a series of excursion tickets called " Salt Lake Tours," 
covering the principal points in Utah, using Salt Lake City and Ogden as cen- 
tral points. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limits of the tickets. 
Tickets will be good thirty days from date of sale. 

First Salt Lake Tour: From Ogden or Salt Lake City, down the Utah Cen- 
tral Branch of the LTnion Pacific, to Frisco; from Frisco, returning to Lehi; 
from Lehi to Salt Lake City. 

Second Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City, over the Utah & Nevada 
Division of the Union Pacific, to Terminus, and return, via Garfield Beach, to 
Salt Lake City. This tour comprises a boat ride on Great Salt Lake. 

Third Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Syracuse Beach 
and return. 

Fourth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Park City and 
return. 

Fifth Salt Lake Tour: From Ogden to Echo and Weber Canons, on the 
main line of the LTnion Pacific Railway, and return. 

Sixth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Utah Hot Springs 
and return. 

Seventh Salt Lake Tour: From Ogden to Willard Canon and return. 

Eighth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Pocatello. 





CALIFORNIA POINTS. 



ALIFORNIA is a word of Spanish origin and means "hot 
furnace." The State is 770 miles long; its extreme breadth is 
330 miles and its least breadth is 150 miles; it has an area of 
160,000 square miles, or 100,000,000 acres of territory. In 
1542, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator in the 
service of Spain, landed on the coast of California, and was 
probably the first white man to visit the "Golden Stale." 
When the peninsula, now known as Southern California, was discovered in 1534, 
it was named California, and for upward of 200 years that was the California 
known to Europeans, although the name was also applied to the coast further 
north. The Franciscan friars, under Junipero Serra, settled at San Diego in 
1769. In 1 82 1, California became a portion of independent Mexico, and after- 
ward a territory under the Mexican Republican Government. On July 7, 1846 
the American navy seized Monterey, the capital of Upper California, and 
American authority dates from that day. Gold was discovered in the Sierra 
Nevada Mountains, January 19, 1848, and a month later Upper California was 
ceded by treaty to the United States. In fifteen months 100,000 people settled 
in the Territory; the first steamer arrived March 31, 1849. The constitution 
was signed October 30, 1849, and California was admitted into the Union as a 
State, September 9, 1850. 



THE YOSE^flTE VALLEY. 



The Yosemite Valley is readily reached from San Francisco or Lathrop, 
via Berenda or jNIilton Stations, on the Los Angeles line of the Southern Pacific 
Railroad. Berenda is on the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad, 178 
miles from San Francisco, while Milton is on the Stockton & Copperopolis 
branch, which leaves the main line at Stockton, 103 miles from San Francisco. 
From Stockton to Milton the distance is thirty miles. From Berenda the San 
Joaquin Valley Division of the Southern Pacific Railroad runs to Raymond, 

(137) 



,3a 




(138) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 139 

twenty-one miles distant, where there is a large and commodious hotel, and 
from Raymond, via stage, to the park. From Herenda or Milton there are 
regular stages into the valley. The more preferable of the two, however, is the 
one from Berenda, although tourists frequently make the trip through from 
Berenda to Milton, visiting en route both the Mariposa and Calaveras Big Tree 
Groves. The roimd trip from San Francisco or Lathrop to the Yosemite Val- 
ley and return to San Francisco can be made in four days. This includes a 
visit to the Mariposa grove of big trees, either going or returning, and enables 
the traveler to visit all the chief points of interest in the valley. The Yosemite 
Valley is the tourists' paradi.se of California and the Pacific coast, if not of the 
world. It cannot be compared with Yellowstone National Park, because there 
are few points of similarity, and each is peerless in its own way. No other 
scene or series of scenes in the world presents the beauty of the one, or the 
wonderful features of the other. Having seen the one, the tourist should see 
the other. The Yosemite Valley is set apart as a park, and is dedicated to the 
sightseers of the world. The points of interest are El Capitan, Three Broth- 
ers, Washington Column, Cathedral Rocks, The Sentinel and Domes, Bridal 
Veil Falls, Yosemite Falls, Mirror Lake, and Cloud's Rest. The Yosemite Falls 
are composed of three cascades, the first being 1,500 feet, the second 600 feet, 
and the last 400 feet high. In the four days' trip from San Francisco or Lath- 
rop, only two days can be had in the valley, which is only time enough to 
merely glance at the scenes of interest. A week or ten days should be spent. 
No pen, however graphic, can convey a correct idea of the lovely scenes which 
here enchant the eye. 

THE MARIPOSA AND CALAVERAS BIG TREES. 

The big trees which are visited en route to the Yosemite are well worth a 
visit. How they can be best reached is explained in the description of the 
Yosemite Valley. These trees are a marvelous sight. In the Mariposa group 
are 600 trees, of which 125 are over forty feet in circumference, and several 
are from ninety to one hundred feet. The Grizzly Giant, one of the monsters 
of this monster forest, sends out a limb which is six feet in diameter, at a height 
of ninety feet above the ground. The Calaveras group has one tree which is 
435 feet high, and no feet m circumference at the butt. The Calaveras trees 
are most accessible from Milton, the terminus of the Stockton & Copperopolis 
branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad, which runs from Stockton on the Los 
Angeles line to Milton, just north of Lathrop. From Milton, this group of 
trees is forty-seven miles distant. There are also some very large trees on 
King's River, forty-one miles frcmi Visalia, which is reached via the Los An- 
geles line on the Southern Pacific Railroad, and the Visalia branch from 
Goshen. Goshen is 241 miles from San Francisco, and Visalia is fifteen miles 
distant from Goshen. 



140 WESTERN RESORTS. 

LOS ANGELKS, SANTA BARBARA, 

San Diego, Riverside, Santa Ana, and other cities and villages in Southern 
California are growing in favor with tourists, invalids, and travelers generally. 
They are beautiful in themselves and charming in surroundings. Embowered 
in vines, embellished with rare flowers, and fringed with orchards producing 
delicious fruits, they present a most enchanting and restful sight. For a winter 
vacation visit. Southern California is unequaled in attractions. The climate, 
productions, and natural scenery combine to restore health to the invalid and 
give enjoyment to all. In the summer the trip is also pleasant, and should not 
be omitted from a tour of the Golden State. 

SAN FRANCISCO. 

San Francisco is the pleasure seeker's great city. Its mammoth hotels, 
palatial in appointments as well as spacious in dimensions, can accommodate 
thousands. No other city on the continent has such complete and ample hotels. 
Adjacent and easily and quickly reached are numerous places of interest to all 
travelers. A score of one-day trips can be made which bring the tourist to his 
San Francisco hotel every evening, and other longer journeys can be taken. 
The people of the city are hospitable, and have that generous disregard of 
expense which is so characteristic of California, and which lavishes money 
without stint upon public and private buildings, and in the adornment of 
grounds and surroundings. Every nation and every climate are represented 
in this most cosmopolitan of American cities, in the persons of her inhabitants 
and the products offered for sale in booths and buildings on her busy streets. 

The splendid metropolis of California and of the entire Pacific coast of 
America, though less than forty years old as a city, has a population to-day of 
nearly 400,000, with a commerce reaching out through its golden gate to all the 
nations of the earth, with roads of steel stretching away to the east, south, and 
north, and connecting it by a few days' travel with every part of the broad 
continent; with great manufactories and markets for the sale and exchange of 
the fabrics and products of the civilized globe, and with the bright prospect of 
a growth and development which will bring it in a few more years to a rank 
among the great cities of the world. 

San Francisco is situated on the noble bay which bears its name, a bay which 
extends north and south for sixty miles, with a width of from four to six miles 
in the vicinity of the city, and forming a great inland sea. The ground for 
several blocks along the city front is "made ground," made from cutting down 
the sand hills in the early building of the city. Telegraph, Russian, Clay 
streets, and California street ("Nob" Hill) will be noticed on the right, as the 
visitor approaches the city by ferry from the Oakland pier. On the left, and 
more distant, he will see the outlines of the Mission hills, and by looking 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 141 

between these and nearly on a line with a huge bulk of the Palace Hotel, he 
sees in the distance the "Twin Peaks." Market street, the great thorough- 
fare, starts from the landing place, from the ferry steamer, and stretches south- 
west direct toward these prominent landmarks. The climate of San Francisco 
is very equable, the temperature averaging about 66 degrees the year round 
seldom going above 85" in summer or below 40° in winter. The trade winds 
which blow during the summer months from the broad Pacific, usually com- 
mence about 1 1 o'clock a. m., and keep the temperature at a refreshing state 
of coolness, making San Francisco the most desirable summer resort of any 
city in the world, and forming a most pleasing contrast to the torrid heat which 
often prevails for weeks in the Eastern cities, no matter how far north they 
may be situated; while the winter, or " wet season," extending from October to 
April, corresponds to spring months in the Eastern and Middle States, with 
occasional rainy days, but often with weeks at a time of warm, bright, sunshiny 
days, the most perfect weather which can be imagined, with all the hills fresh 
and green, and in INIarch, April and May covered with the greatest profusion 
of wild flowers. Visitors who come from the Eastern States — that is, from any 
State east of us — should remember that they will need warm, heavy clothing 
here in summer as well as winter, as in summer the temperature in the morn- 
ing up to II o'clock will often rise to So° or 85^, and drop to 60'' or 65*^ when 
the trade winds begin to blow. 

The street-car system is unexcelled. Over fifty miles of cable-roads are in 
operation, traversing all parts of the city, climbing the steep hills, affording 
the residents of the hilly sections easy and cheap communication with the 
business parts. A trip over the cable-roads affords the finest views which can 
be obtained of the city, bay, and surrounding country, and is a pleasure trip 
indeed. The Market street cable system extends to the famous Cliff House, 
Ocean Beach, and Sutro Heights, through the beautiful Golden Gate Park. 
The California street cable-road runs up California street (or " Xob " Hill), 
where are situated magnificent residences. The United States Mint is on Fifth 
street, near Market, and is the largest mint in the world. The splendid plant 
of the Union Iron Works at the Potrero is well worth a visit and inspection, 
it being fully equal in all its appointments to any of the great ship-yards or 
iron works in the East, or on the Clyde, in Scotland. 

San Francisco is, and should be made, the center from which to visit all the 
tourist resorts of California. It is an interesting city of itself, and will employ 
the time of the visitor profitably and agreeably for daiys. Its sail-flecked bay 
and the Golden Gate are a chapter of pleasing sights varied in aspect by the 
movements of the multitude of vessels floating the flags of all nations. 

Among its many attractions the tourist must not neglect visiting the famous 
Cliff House, which commands a view of the Seal Rocks and the Golden Gate. 
The drive out to the Cliff House through the military post of Presidio and back 




BRIDAL VEIL FALLS. YOSEMITE VALLEY, CALIFORN lA — reached via the Lr^on Pacific System. 



(U2) 



FOR HEALTH AXD PLEASURE. 143 

through the park is one of the finest drives in the world. Excursions across its 
shining surface to the ocean, to San Rafael, etc., are enjoyable and frequent. 
From San Rafael the journey may be continued northward to Santa Rosa, 
Tomales, the Geysers, Cloverdale, and Clear Lake, passing on the return the 
Petrified Forest, Calistoga, St. Helena, Napa, and Vallejo. Oakland, the sub- 
urban city, in which reside many of the richest citizens of San Francisco, Mt. 
Diablo, the Sacramento River, Sacramento, Marysville, and Mt. Shasta may all 
be visited at slight expense. Numerous — once famous — gold camps abound, 
and the stories of their rise to importance and decline to deserts form many an 
interesting chapter in the tales of travelers to the Pacific coast. Southward lie 
Santa Clara, Pescadero, San Jose, Gilroy Springs, Pajaro. Santa Cruz, and 
Monterey, each charming in its own way. 

MONTEREY. 

Frequent trains and cheap rates have built up half a score of pleasure resorts 
south of San Francisco, but Monterey is conceded to be the most delightful. 
This little city overlooks the bay of the same name, and the natural beauty of 
its surroundings has been heightened by the expenditure of large sums of 
money in hotels, park.s, drives, and baths. The Hotel Del Monte, at Monterey, 
is the finest tourists' hotel on the Pacific coast. Excursion tickets to Monterey 
and return are sold in San Francisco, and as the seaside hotel is but a few 
hours' ride from the city it is largely patronized. 

LAKE TAHOE. 

Associated closely with these distinctively Californian resorts is Lake Tahoe, 
which lies on the boundary between California and Nevada, half in each State. 
It is fourteen miles west of Carson City, the capital of Nevada, and about the 
same distance from Truckee, California, on the Central Pacific Railroad. This 
beautiful mountain lake is thirty-five miles long, fifteen miles wide, and 1,500 
feet deep. Its water is as clear as crystal and as cold as ice, and, though stand- 
ing at an elevation of 6,700 feet above sea-level, and surrounded by mountains 
whose summits are white with snow nearly the whole year, it never freezes. A 
very pleasant side excursion trip for overland passengers can be made by leav- 
ing the Southern Pacific at Reno, proceeding via Virginia & Truckee Railroad 
to Carson City, thence by stage to Lake Tahoe, across its surface by steamer, 
and return to the Southern Pacific by stage, at Truckee. On the same trip 
Bonanza mines at Virginia City may be visited. This excursion is short and 
require, but little -ime. The lake can also be visited from Truckee. and pas- 
sengers m haste to reach their destination need lose but one dav. 

Note. — For further information .see " Sights and Scenes in California," 
issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing min- 
ute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in California. 




(144) 




HEALTH. 



is easy to write an apostrophe to health, for every one knows that its 
value is above rubies. Yet almost wantonly, sometimes, it is sacrificed. 
Nature, however, has kindly decreed that rest shall restore it, and has 
so endowed a favored portion of her realm that weary mortals may 
gather there and have brought back to them in a measure the prize 
they cast away. The entire Rocky Mountain region is a sanitarium. 
It has the sun, the mountain breeze, the crisp, mild air, which combine 
to invigorate and heal. There is no magic in the springs, bursting and 
bubbling in the canons, though the ignorant, noting their cures, might 
well ascribe to them a magical power. There is no magic in the healing 
wrought by a mountain summer, yet it recalls the day when the weak were 
made strong by the laying on of hands. Simply marvelous are the transforma- 
tions wrought by it. Its fame has gone abroad. And winter now is becoming 
entitled to a part of the honors. The West will soon be known as an all-the- 
year-round resort. It deserves to be thus known. The haze of Indian 
summer lingers long into the autumn, and the balminess of early autumn gives 
way reluctantly for the moderate rigor of the holidays. 

The invalid reaches a point, especially if his trouble is pulmonary, where a 
trip, such as is suggested above, means a new lease of life to him. If he 
pauses, it will soon be too late. Past a certain stage, the higher altitude of the 
mountains will hasten a fatal termination as surely as before that point is 
reached it will avert it. In reading preceding chapters, the thought will occur 
very properly that the out-door life hinted at therein would be most conducive 
to sound health. Such is the case. All conditions are favorable to such a life. 
The beauties of Nature prompt it and the climatic features make it agreeably 
possible. 

People are often puzzled to know why they are cured. What matters it, so 
that they are cured? Still some analysis may be interesting. The air of Den- 
ver, for instance, is exceedingly dry. Rain is rare. This air prevents matter 
which would ordinarily become putrid from decaying. It acts in the same 
manner upon diseased lungs. More than this, a greater number of cubic inches 

(145) 



146 



WESTERN RESORTS 



must be taken in at every breath, resulting in an expansion of the chest. It 
also quickens circulation wonderfully, and is about the only stimulant that gives 
no baneful reaction. 

"The empire of climate," says Montesquieu, "is the most powerful of all 
empires." This airy empire has been the subject of many learned dissertations, 
not one of which is so convincing as the roses returning to the wannest cheek 
or the dragging step once more light and buoyant. Probably the work of Chas. 
Denison, M. D., issued in 1880, is the most authentic ever published on the 
relations of climate and disease. Searching for the ideal clime for the pre- 
vention and cure of consumption, he selects the Rocky Mountain region. He 
gives his reasons for this and defends them from the stronghold of science and 
experience. He cites the humid, low resorts of Florida and the Carolinas and 
Texas, and shows that in none of their advantages can they compete with their 
high and dry rivals. If possessing any advantages, they are enervating, and 
more apt to bring the entire system down than to build it up. Of absolute 
cures there are none to place to their credit. There are many credited to the 
greater altitudes. The book referred to is full of tabular illustrations of the 
points it makes. 





HUNTING AND FISHING. 



N writing of several places, there has been incidental mention of game, 
but the subject deserves more specific notice. There is no excitement 
so thrilling and healthful as that born of the chase, and when the 
tremor of expectation has marred the aim, and its object flies over 
the hills exultant, it is genuine disappointment which follows. Hunt- 
ing has been reduced to a science ; but the amateur's first idea is to 
find his game, and, having found it, to blaze away for general results. 
Until some skill has been acquired by practice the results are apt to 
be extremely general, but never from lack of opportunity. 
Antelopes are tempting, albeit their human-like eyes beg with mute elo- 
quence from their liquid depths for life. To find them, be up early, and gun in 
hand, before the sun has risen; for two hours then will give more shots than all 
the remainder of the day, for it is then they are feeding, unconscious of danger. 
On the vast plains, where there is often no shrub, and where the level is like a 
floor, it would seem that their hiding was impossible; but there are many 
ravines in which they may be sheltered secure from any enemy. These same 
ravines permit the enemy to approach under cover. Antelope meat is sweet 
and tender, and really creates an appetite as it crisps over the camp fire, and 
sends its aroma to the outer edge of the circle of light. The flesh of the 
mountain sheep is regarded as superior to any other trophy of the hunt, not 
excepting that of elk and black-tailed deer, which, before the rare toothsome- 
ness of a juicy saddle, or the dripping ribs, of a young and tender mountain 
sheep, is found below par. The sheep may be chased into the wildest abyss, 
and to the loftiest mountain tops, these difficulties only tending to make the 
pursuit more attractive, and many to follow it would give up buffalo, antelope, 
elk, and deer. North Park is surrounded by such a formation as makes it a 
favorite place for this game. The immense horns and the bony forehead nature 
has given the animal often enables it to bafile the pursuer by hurling itself 
frcm gicidy heights and alighting on the protecting frontal Or it leaps fright- 

(147) 



148 WESTERN RESORTS. 

fill chasms where no foot can follow, and if killed hy an accurate bullet would 
only decompose far out of reach. 

Buffalo are now largely confined to the plains of Wyoming and Montana, 
far to the north; but herds come down to within sixty miles of Cheyenne in 
winter. A hunter properly secreted can nearly annihilate a small herd, as the 
huge beasts only look around wonderingly when the one next to them is sm'tten 
to death. The only legitimate way to hunt them is from horseback, and now- 
fascinating it is then all border legends tell. There is some danger in it ; but 
to the hunter that danger is but an added charm. The most formidable antag- 
onist to be met with is the grizzly bear, which inhabits the higher ranges of the 
Rocky Mountains. To meet it requires a steady hand and a stout heart. The 
best nerve and the best weapons are not invincible. Never fire at a grizzly 
unless a partner is near with rifle ready poised. To come within the einbrace 
of its mighty paws, which with one blow can break the back of an ox, is to be 
crushed. And yet there is nothing to which a Nimrod will point with more 
pride than to a grizzly's robe, with a hole through the portion which had cov- 
ered the heart. This bear may be found in autumn, among the raspberry 
patches; but the finder will usually steal quietly away. Ten to one he has not 
"lost a bear." The cinnamon and common black variety attain great size, but 
they are lambs compared with their great cousin. 

The Western water-courses are most prolific of black-tailed deer, that com.e 
in little bands to drink just before sunrise or just after sunset. They are at 
home in an altitude which no other variety can endure, and graze in the high- 
est parks near the summits, (ienerally, four or five are together. The hunter 
is lucky who bags more than one. It is lower down the mountain that the 
whistle of the elk is heard as he plunges through the forest, with his great 
horns laid back. It is a delightful sound to the sportsman, who steals up for a 
shot in the gray of the dawn. He must keep well hidden, for the eye of the 
elk is keen; and to the windward, for the scent is most acute. But by enough 
precaution a splendid shot is obtained and some magnificent bull bounds away 
in an instant, and falls with a crash — strong to the last. It is then that the 
sportsman exults. 

The time was and not many years ago, that to enjoy this sport, long excur- 
sions were necessary by horse or wagon, but now the most perfect hunting and 
fishing grounds are reached by the divisions of the Union Pacific. 

Antelope are found on all the plains adj-acent to the Union Pacific where 
there is any pasture. They abound in the parks of Colorado and Wyoming, 
and on the plains just east of the mountains. Jack-rabbits and smaller game 
are met with in great numbers in the smoother portions of the mountains and 
on the prairies. Grizzly bear inhabit the more elevated peaks of the moun- 
tains, and are especially numerous in the Uintah and Wahsatch Ranges of 
Utah, Wyoming, and Montana. In Colorado and Idaho they lurk about the 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 1-49 

rougher defiles, near the timber Hne. Black and cinnamon bear, elk, black-tailed 
deer, mountain sheep, and mountain lions are common to all the higher regions of 
the range. In Montana and Wyoming occasionally mountain goats and buf- 
falo are brought down. Ducks, geese, brant, antl other water-fowl can be 
found on the shores of all the rivers and lakes in the regions traversed by the 
Union Pacitic. Nearly all the mountain brooks and lakes abound in trout and 
other varieties of fish. The Snake River and other tributaries of the Columbia 
are filled with salmon. The angler can scarcely go amiss in any part of the 
region above named. Prairie chicken, .sage-hen, quail, snipe, and other land- 
birds are abundant everywhere. Eagles are picked off the peaks of the Rockies 
occasionally. In short, the country tributary to the Union Pacific everywhere 
presents attractions to the sportsman. Perhaps the most famous and favorite 
hunting-ground of North America to-day is that portion of Wyoming lying 
north and south of Rock Creek and Rawlins. In that region can be found all 
varieties of game, from the mountain squirrel to the grizzly bear, and from the 
harmless beaver to the bellowing buffalo. Transportation thither can be 
engaged at Cheyenne, Laramie, Rock Creek or Rawlins. Arrangements should 
be made for camping out, and from two to six weeks should be spent in the 
field to thoroughly enjoy the sport. The North Park of Colorado is another 
famous hunting-ground where the largest game abounds. Two hunters in one 
season brought fourteen large wagon-loads to market. They killed 500 ante- 
lope and 250 elk. Herds of 500 elk are frequently seen. The Bear River 
country, in Idaho, Utah, and Wyoming, has been a glorious region for disciples 
of the gun and rod since the earliest days of its discovery. But, as said before, 
the hunter or fisherman can find rare sport in almost any portion of the terri- 
tory tributary to the Union Pacific. 

Mention has been made in these pages of fishing, but the following addi- 
tional matter will prove of interest to the lovers of the "gentle science." 

Among the several varieties of food-fish which are found in the streams of 
Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana, Utah, Oregon, and Washington may be 
mentioned speckled mountain brook trout, sdver trout, black trout, common 
trout, bass, pike, pickerel, salmon, etc., some twenty-five or more species 
abounding in the Western water-courses. Particular attention is called to the 
speckled mountain brook trout, here so common, for it is considered the finest 
food-fish, as well as the " gamiest " of all the finny tribe, and consequently 
affords more sport to the angler. 

Fly fishing for trout is good during the months of July, August, September, 
and October. Bait fishing is generally good during the early summer. The 
angleworm is good bait the world over. Besides the artificial bait, which can 
be procured anywhere, nature provides an abundance of flies and worms along 
every stream, which the angler can readily find. 

Good trout-fields are found in Platte Canon, South Park, Middle Park, 



]^50 WESTERN RESORTS. 

North Park, and Estes Park; in Clear Creek Canon, Green Lake near George- 
town, and in Boulder Canon, all in Colorado; in Blackfoot Creek near Soda 
Springs, Idaho; in Yellowstone National Park, and in almost all the mountain 
streams of Montana, Utah, Oregon, and Washingt(Mi, particularly in the north- 
ern streams of Idaho, around Hailey, Ketchum, and Boise City. 

The trout, from its extreme beauty, delicacy of flavor, and extraordinary 
activity as a game fish, has attracted the attention of all classes of people, from 
the boy with a pin-hook to those who have swayed the destiny of an empire- 
The divine, the philosopher, the poet, the artist, and the statesman, from the 
earliest dates, have enjoyed many days of recreation in his pursuit, sang songs 
to his praise, or written pages of instruction of their own experience in taking 
him from his native element. 

There are three different methods pursued in the capture of the trout — 
angling at the top, with a natural or artificial fly, grasshopper, or other small 
insect- at the middle, with a minnow, shrimp, or similar small fish; and at the 
bottom, with a worm, or different kinds of pastes. 

Fly Fishing. — Fly fishing is usually practiced with a short one-handed rod, 
from ten to twelve feet in length, or a two-handed rod from fifteen to eighteen 
feet in length. The first mentioned is the most common in use, and is calcu- 
lated for the majority of mountain streams, which are small and require but 
little length of rod or line. Attached to the rod should be a reel, containing 
from thirty to fifty yards of hair, grass, silk, or silk and hair line; the latter 
description should be used if it can be procured, tapering from the tenth of an 
inch almost to a point; to this should be attached a leader of from one to two 
yards in length; and finally the fly, on a light length of gut; if two or three 
flies are used, place them on a leader with short gut, about twenty-four inches 

apart. 

The latter description of rod is used in larger .streams, where it is neces- 
sary to throw a great distance; for this purpose the reel should be large enough 
to contain loo yards of line, with the other tackle precisely the same as with 
the smaller rod. It should be recollected that the trout rods should be made 
similar to the salmon rods, and of the lightest woods. 

Minnow Fishing. — The rod used in this kind of angling is from twelve to 
sixteen feet in length, with a stiffer top than that used for fly fishing, and goes 
under the name of a bait-rod. The smaller, say twelve feet, for small wading 
streams, and the longer for wider and deeper waters. Attached should be an 
American reel, holding from thirty to fifty yards of American laid-grass or silk 
line, with from two to three yards of silkworm gut, terminating with a Limer- 
ick hook, from number two to five, according to the size of the bait, fastened 
by a loop as before described. For baiting the minnow, pass the hook in at 
the mouth and out at the gills, then in again at the commencement of the dor- 
sal fin and out again just beyond, tying the hook at each end with a piece of 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



151 



thin silk or thread. By this method a live minnow can be kept animated for a 
great length of time. 

Worm Fishing. — This is, and has been, from the earliest periods, the stand- 
ard mode of trout angling. It is practiced principally at the opening and clos- 
ing of the season by anglers generally. The rod generally used is from twelve 
to fifteen feet in length for small streams, and from fifteen to twenty feet 
(according to circumstances) for the larger. The reel and other appurtenances 
should be similar to that described for minnow fishing. 

The various fish commissioners who have supervision of the public waters, 
and the collection. ]")ropagation, culture, and distribution of fish, have done 
much to increase the numbers, varieties, and improve the quality of fish in the 
Western waters. 







POINTS OF INTEREST REACHED BY THE 
UNION PACIFIC. 



Ames Monument — Main Line — Wyoming . . .(See 'I'rip Across the Continent.) 

Hippopotamus Rock — Main Line — Wyoming. " " " 

Snow Sheds — Main Line — Wyoming " " " 

Dale Creek Bridge — Main Line — Wyoming... '' " " 

Echo Canon — Main Line— Utah " " " 

Weber Canon— Main Line— Utah '' " " 

Pulpit Rock— Main Line— Utah " " " 

Devil's Slide — Main Line — Utah " " " 

Witch Rocks — Main Line — Utah " " " 

Jack-in-the-Pulpit — Main Line — Utah " " " 

Idaho Springs (See Colorado Points.) 

Georgetown " " 

Central City " 

Green Lake " " 

The Loop " 

Graymont " " 

Breckenridge " " 

Dome Rock " " 

Cathedral Spires " " 

Sunset " " 

Boulder " 

Fort Collins " 

Loveland " " 

Hot Sulphur Springs " " 

Kenosha Hill " 

Mount of the Holy Cross " " 

The Palisades " " 

The Three Tetons (See Yellowstone National Park.) 

Fire Hole Basin " " " 

Camas Meadows '■ "' '' 

Henry's Lake " " " 

Manly's Cabin " " " 

Tyghee Pass '' " " 

Continental Divide " " " 

(152) 



WESTERN RESORTS 



loo 



Great Shoshone Falls (See Idaho Points.) 

American Falls <' 

Locomotive Cave " 

Soda Springs " 

Guyer Hot Springs " 

Hailey Hot Springs " 

Mt. Hood (See Dalles of the Columbia.) 

Multnomah Falls '• " " 

Hell Gate - 

iMemaloose Isle " " " 

Oneonta Falls " 

Castle Rock " " " 

Rooster Rock " " « 

Cape Horn " " " 

Crater Lake (See ( )regon Points. ) 

Ft. Vancouver " " 

Mt. Shasta (See Mt. Shasta Route.) 

The Rogue River Valley " " " 

The Siskiyous " '' " 

Great Salt Lake (See Utah Points.) 

Garfield Beach " 

Ogden Caiion " 

LTtah Hot Springs " 

Willard Canon '• 

Syracuse Beach " 

Giant's Cave ■ " 

Warm Sulphur Springs '* 

Beck's Hot Springs '' 

Mt. Nebo " 

Yosemite Valley (See California Points.) 

Mariposa and Calaveras Big Trees '* '' '* 

Lake Tahoe " " " 

Tacoma (See Portland to Puget Sound.) 

Seattle " •' " 

Port Townsend *. " " " 

Victoria " '* " 

Astoria (See l/0\ver Columbia.) 

Ilwaco " " " 

Clatsop Beadh " '< " 



Elevations of Principal Mountain Cities, Peaks and Passes. 

COLORADO. 



CITIES AND TOWNS. ELEVATION. [PEAKS. 

Alpine 9,247 [Amcro . . 

Alpine Tunnel 1 1 ,596 Arapahoe 

Black Hawk 8,o32|Audubon 

Boreas 11,470 Bald 

Boulder 5,335!Blanca . . 

Breckenridge 9,524 Byers 



Buena VisUi 7,943 Ethel 

Central City 8,503 Evans 

Denver 5,170 Gray's 

Dillon 8,805 Hahn's 

Dome Rock 6, 199 Harvard 

Estabrook Park 7,547 Holy Cross 

Ft. Collins 4,972 Irwin's 

Georgetown 8,476|james 

Golden 5,655 Long's 

Greeley 4,637 Massive 

Gunnison 7,649 Monitor 

Haywood Springs 8,093 Princeton 

Idaho Springs 7,5431 Pike's 

Keystone 9,i59lRosalie 

Leadville 10. 185 Yale 

Uncompahgre. 



^•ATION. PASSES. 

,14,245 Alpine 

. 13,520 Argentine ... 
.13,173 Berthoud . . . . 

. 1 1,493 Boulder 

. 1 4,464! Breckenridge. 
, i2,778jCochetopa . . 
. 1 1 ,976jCunningham . 

.14,32 1 j Fremont 

. 14,441! Georgia 

. io,9o6|Gove 

.14,375 Hamilton . . . . 

, i4,i76|Hayden 

. 14,336: Hoosier 

. 13,283 Lake Fork. . . 
. 14,271 Loveland . . . . 

. 14,298' Marshall 

. 1 1,270 Poncho 

. 14,196 Raton 

. i4,i47jTarryall .... 
. 14,340 Trout Creek . 
. i4,i87[Tennessee . . . 
. 14,419! Veta 



ELEVATION. 

12,124 

13,100 

14,349 

11 ,670 

11,560 

10,032 

12,090 

ii^S^S 

1 1,81 1 

9,500 

12,370 

10,780 

11,500 

12,540 

II, 500 

10,852 

«,945 

.... 7,«63 
12,176 

9,346 

10.700 

9,339 



OREGON. 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Crater Lake 7,i43 

Diamond Peak 8,807 

Granite Mountain 8,990 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Mt. Hood ii,225lMt. Timber 7,5'9 

Mt. Pitt 9,818 Sugar-loaf Mountain . . 8,41 5 

Mt. Scott 9,016 Union Peak 7,298 



WASHINGTON. 



Peaks. 

Mt. Adams . . . 

Mt. Baker 

Mt. Constance 



ELEVATION. 

9,750; 

I 1,100 

i,in\ 



Mt. Jefferson 5,657 

Mt. Olympus 8,138 

Mt. Skomegan 8,400 

IDAHO. 



ELEVATION. jPEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Mt. St. Helen's 9,750 

Mt. Tacoma 14,444 



Antelope Peak. . 
Bannock Peak . . 

Blackfoot 

Boise City 

Bonanza City. . . . 
Cache Peak . . . . 

Cante Rock 

East Malade Mt. 



ELEVATION. 

7,280 

«,359 

.... 4.503 

2,885, 

6,400 

10,451 

9,610 

9,332 



ELEVATION. I 

Estes 10,050; 

Galena 7»900 

Grand Teton 13,691 

Idaho City 4,623 

Lewiston 680! 

Lone Cove 9,246; 

Meade Peak 10,541 

Mt. Caribou 9,695 

UTAH. 



ELEVATION. 



Mt. Garfield 9,704 

Mt. Oxford 9,386 

Mt. Preuss 9,979 

Mt. Sherman 9,572 

Oxford 4,766 

Sawtelles Peak 10,013 

Saw Tooth 7,000 

Soda Springs 5, 780 



Adams Head 

Anderson Peak. . . 
Bald Mountains. . 
Blue Mountain. . . 

Bruin Point 

Burro Peak 

Clayton's Peak. . . 

Cox Peak 

Frances Point. . . . 
Gilbert's Peak . . . 
Heber Mountain. 
La Motte Peak. . . 

Lone Peak 

Logan 

Mt. Bangs 

Mt. Belknap 



ELEVATION. 

10,360 

10,710 

11,730 

11,071 

10,150 

12,834 

I 1,889 

13,250 

.... 10,430 

i3,6B7 

10.138 

12,892 

11,295 

4,497 

10,250 

12,2001 



ELEVATION. 

Mt. Brian 11,178 

Mt. Dalton 10,480 

Mt. Delano 12,240 

Mt. Ellen 11,410, 

Mt. Emmons 13,694 

Mt. Harry 11 ,300 

Mt. Hodges 13,500 

Mt. Horelj 10,920 

Mt. Marvine 11 ,600 

Mt. Nebo 11,992 

Mt. Pennell 11,320 

Mt. Stevenson 10,840 

Mt. Waas 12,561 

Midget Crest 11,414 

Monroe Peak 11 ,240 



(154) 



ELEVATION. 

Musinia Peak 10,940 

North Logan Peak. . . . 10,004 

Ogden 4,301 

Pilot Peak io,yoo 

Point Carbon 11 ,443 

Provo Peak 11 ,066 

Salt Lake City 4,260 

Silver City 6,013 

Table Cliff 10,070 

Terrell's Ridge. ...... 1 1,380 

Tockewanna Peak. . . . 13,458 

Tomasaki Mountain. . . 12,271 

Tooele Peak 10,396 

Twin Peak 11,563 

Wilson's Peak I3>235 



ELEVATION OF PRINCIPAL PEAKS— Continued. 

SOMK YELLOWSTONE PARK ELEVATIONS. 



ELEVATION. 

Amethyst Mountain. . . 9,423 

Baroncltes Peak • 0,459 

Beaver Lake 7,4' 5 

Beulah Lake 7, 53° 

Bison Peak 9,038 

Bunsen Peak 0,775 

Crater Hills 7,820 

Diinraven Peak 9,9^8 

Elephant's Back 8,884 

Flat Mountain 9,200 

Gardner River Springs 6,500 

Garnet Hill 7,177 

Gibbon Geyser 7,527 

Gibbon Lake 7,838 

Grizzly Mountain 9>982 

Haystack Mountain... 7,689 



ELEVATION.! 

Heart Lake 7,475! 

Hell Roaring Mountain 8,418! 

Herring Lake 7>53o| 

Lake Lewis 7,8oo, 

Lower Geyser Basin. . . 7,250 

Mary's Lake 8,336 

Mt. Crittenden 10,190 

Mt. Doanc 10,713 

Mt. Evarts 7, 600: 

Mt. Holmes 10,528! 

Mt. Langford 10,779 

Mt. Norris 10,019 

Mt. Sheridan 10,385 

Mt. Stevenson 10,420 

Mt. Washburne 10,3461 

Mud Geysers 7)7251 



ELEVATION. 



N'th Twin Butte (Lr.BigiB) 7,976 

Pelican Hill 9,580 

Promontory Top 8,706 

Quadrant Mountain . . . 10,127 

Red Mountains 9,777 

Riddle Lake 8,000 

Shoshone Geyser Basin 7,837 

Shoshone Lake 7,830 

Smoothface Mountain. 10,500 

Soda Hill 9,518 

South Twin Butte.. .. 7,977 

Specimen Ridge 8,806 

Turrett Mountain 11,142 

Upper Geyser Basin. . . 7,400 
Yellowstone Lake 7,738 



WYOMING. 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. ' 

Fremont's Peak 13,790 

Snow's Peak i3)57o 

Mt. Hooker 12,900 

Wind River Peak I3)499 

Atlantic Peak 12,794 

West Atlantic Peak. .. 12,634 

Mt Genie 12,546 

Mt. Moran 12,800 

Washakie Needle 12,253 

Medicine Peak 12,231 

Mt. Chauvenet 13,000 



PEAKS. 

Index Peak 

Younts Peak 

Union Peak 

Wyoming Peak . . , 
Elk Mountain. . . . , 
Uelham Peak. . . , 
Coffin Mountain. . . 
Chimney Rock 
Grosventure Peak. 

Mt. Leidy 

Laramie Peak ... 



ELEVATION.] 
1,702 



ELEVATION. 



1,700 

1,593 
1,490 
1,511 
1,524 
1.376 
i,«53 
1,570 

1,177 
1,000 



Gd. Encampm't Mt'n. .11,003 

Mill Peak 10,506 

Sailor Mountain 10,046 

Virginia Peak 10,044 

Volcanic Comb 10,583 

HobockPeak 10,818 

Mt. Baird 9.99° 

Bald Mountain 9.897 

Bradley's Peak 9,500 

Young's Peak 9,000 



MONTANA. 



CITIES AND TOWNS. ELEVATION. 

Helena 3,93o 

Butte 5,482 

Deer Lodge 4,527 

Virginia City 2,824] 

Missoula 3,900 

Argenta 6,337 

Bozeman 4,900 



PKAKS. ELEVATION. PASSES. ELEVATION. 

Bridger's 9 000 Deer Lodge 5,808 

Emigrant 10,629 Flathead 6,769 

Electric 10,992 Bridger 6,147 

Liberty 9,162 Lewis and Clarke. .. . 6,323 

Blackmore 10, 134 Little Blackfoot 6,250 

Delano 10,200 Mullen 5)98o 

Sphinx io,88o| Madison 6,91 1 

CALIFORNIA^ " 



PEAKS. 

Mt. Adams 

Mt. Anderson 

Mt. Bidwell 

Bruin Pass 

Mt. Brewer 

Castle Peak . . . . 

Clark Peak 

Conner's Peak . . . 

Mt. Corcoran 

Coryo Peak 

Mt. Dana . 

Dunderberg Peak . 

Echo Peak 

Mt. Elephant . . . . 
Fisherman's Peak 



k'ATION. 

• 8,431 
, 9,000 
, 8,551 
10,150 
.13,886 
,12,500 
.11,295 
.12,518 

■ 14,093 
.11,326 

.13,227 
12,289 
1 1,231 

. 10,418 
14,448 



PEAKS. E 

Grizzly Peak 

Highland Peak .... 

Hoffman Peak 

Kaweah Peak 

Lasseus Butte 

Mt. Lyell 

McBride's Peak . . . 

Mt. Merde 

Meadow Mountain . 

Mt. Merced 

Olancho Peak 

Pyramid Mountain. 

Red State Peak 

San Antonio Peak. . . 



I'ATION. 

•11,723 

,10,9561 
. 10,872 
. 14,000 

•10,577 
.13,217 

.13,441 
. 10,540 

•11,734 
11,413 
,12,250 
• 10,127 
. 13,400 
10,191 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

San Bernardino Mt 11 ,600 

San Jacinto 10,987 

Mt. Shasta I4,442 

Mt. SiUiman 11,623 

Mt. Silver 10,934 

Sonora Mountain 1 1,478 

Stevens Mountain lo.oii 

Sunday Peak 11, 089 

Sweetwater Mountain ..11 ,778 
Telescope Mountain. . .10,937 

Mt. Washington 10,802 

Waucoba Peak 1 1 ,267 

Mt. Whitney 14,898 

Woods Peak 10,553 



ALASKA. 



PEAK. ELEVATION. 

Mt. Cook .... 15,900 to 16.000 

Mt, Crillon 15,900 

Mt. Perouse 11 ,300 



PEAK. ELEVATION. PEAK. ELEVATION. 

Mt. St. Elias. 17,854 to 19,500 Mt. Fairw'ther 14,708 to 15,500 

Mt. llliaminsk 12,066 Mt. Unalaska 5,961 

Mt. Shishaldin 8,683! Mt. Verstova. .__ 3.374 

{155) 



STANDARD PUBLICATIONS 

BY THE 

PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OF THE UNION PACIFIC SYSTEM. 



The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific System will take pleasure in forwarding to any 
address, free of charge, any of the following publications, provided that with the application is inclosed 
the amount of postage specified below for each publication. All of these books and pamphlets are fresh 
from the press, many of them handsomely illustrated, and accurate as regards the region ol country 
described. They will be found entertaining and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and authority on 
the fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire of the West. There is information for the 
tourist, pleasure and health seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, and the invalid. 

The Western Resort BooU. Send 6 cents for postage. 

This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union Pacific System. Every health resort, 
mountain retreat, watering-place, hunter's paradise, .etc, etc., is depicted. This book gives a full and 
complete detail of all tours over the line, starting from Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, 
I^eavenworth, or Kansas City, and contains a complete itinerary of the journej' from either of these 
points to the Pacific Coast. 

Stsrhts ami Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. 

There are six pamphlets in this set, pocket-folder size, illustrated, and are descriptive of tours to par- 
ticular points. The set comprises " Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho and Montana; 
California ; Oregon and Washington ; Alaska. Each pamphlet deals minutely with every resort of 
pleasure or health within its assigned limit, and will be found bright and interesting reading for 
tourists. 

Vest Pocfcet Memorandnni Rook. Send 2 cents for postage. 

A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful for the farmer, business man, 
traveler and tourist. 

Compreliensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for each pamphlet. 

A set of pamphlets on Kansas, Colorado, Texas, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, and 
Washington. These books treat of the resources, climate, acreage, minerals, grasses, soil, and pro- 
ducts of these various empires on an extended scale, entering very fully upon an exhaustive 
treatise of the capabilities and promise of the places described. They have been very carefully 
compiled, and the information collated from Official Reports, actual settlers, and residents of the 
different States and Territories. 

Theatrical Diary. Send lo cents for postage. For the Theatrical Profession Only. 

This is a Theatrical Diary for 1S91-92, bound in Turkey Morocco, gilt tops, and contains a list of 
nearly 300 theatres and opera houses reached by the Union Pacific System, seating capacity, size of 
stage, terms, newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is intended only for the theatrical pro- 
fession. 

Map of the United States. Send 25 cents for postage. 

A large wall map of the United States, complete in every particular, and compiled from the latest 
surveys ; just published ; size, 46x66 inches ; railways, counties, roads, etc., etc. 

Stream, Sonnd and Sea. Send 2 cents for postage. 

A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from Portland, Ore., to The Dalles of the Colum- 
bia, Astoria, Clat.sop Beach ; through the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget Sound, 
and up the coast to Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing valuable information for the tourist. 

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From Summerland to tbe Americkan Alpw. Send 4 cents for postage. 

This is a short description of the magnificent Panhandle country of Texas, recently made a part of 
the Union Pacific system. It will be found a handy volume for tourists who intend visiting the 
South during the winter. 

IVonderfiil Story. Send 2 cents for postage. 

The romance of railway building. The wonderful storj- of the early surveys and the building of 
the Union Pacific. A paper by General G. M. Dodge, read before the Society of the Army of the 
Tennessee. September, 1888. General Sherman pronounced this document fascinatingly interesting 
and of great historical value, and vouched for its accuracy. 

Oiin €liib Rules and Revi!«ed Game I^aws. Send 2 cents for postage. 

This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to game in all the Western States and 
Territories. It also contains the various gun-club rules, together with a guide to all Western 
localities where game of whatsoever description may be found. Every sportsman should have one. 

♦* The 01de«it Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for po.stage. 

This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study from life. It is characterized by .strong drawing 
and wonderful fidelity. A very handsome acquisition for parlor or library. 

Crofntt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send |i.oo. 

This book has just been issued. It graphically describes everj^ point, giving its history, population, 
business resources, etc.. etc., on the line of the Union Pacific System, between the Missouri River 
and the Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not start We.st without a copy in his possession. It 
furnishes in one volume a complete guide to the country traversed by the Union Pacific System and 
cannot fail to be of great assistance to the tourist in selecting his route, and obtaining complete 
information about the points to be visited. 

A Glimpse of Great Salt Iiake. Send 4 cents for postage. 

This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious inland sea, beautifully illus- 
trated with original sketches by the well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt Lake City. 
The startling phenomena of .sea and cloud and light and color are finely portrayed. This book 
touches a new region, a voyage on Great Salt Lake never before having been described and pictured. 

General Folder. No postage required. 

A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every month. This publication gives con- 
densed through time tables ; through car service ; a first-class map of the United States, west of 
Chicago and St. Louis ; important baggage and ticket regulations of the Union Pacific System, thus 
making a valuable compendium for the traveler and for ticket agent in selling through tickets over 
the Union Pacific. 

The Pathfinder. No postage required. 

A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards ; containing a complete list of stations with 
the altitude of each ; also connections with Western stage lines and ocean steamships; through car 
ser\-ice ; baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the principal ticket regulations, which will 
prove of great value as a ready reference for ticket agents to give passengers information about the 
local branches of the Union Pacific System. 



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